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Thread: Metal Roof (trim and screws)

  1. #1
    Member AKFishOn's Avatar
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    Default Metal Roof (trim and screws)

    Putting a metal roof on a cabin this fall (24x16 two story), nothing fancy. A contractor is doing the labor for the framing and roof but I'm buying materials, have to buy the roof (going metal), screws and trim. A few questions.

    Thought of saving a little bit of money and not putting the trim on the roof (the eave and gable trim)...would not be much more to put it on, but any recomendations as to the draw backs of leaving it off?

    Also need to order screws, whew they seem expensive so I want to order the correct amount and size, thinking 1.5 inch for the majority of the roofing, as there is some deck the roof will be 32 feet and require 22 sheets of 3x12 metal roofing, any ideas on the amount and type (3/4" or 1.5") screws I would need. I imagine there is a common calculation for to put "X" amount of 3x12" metal roof up you need "Y" amount of a type of screw.

    Greatly appreciate any information.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    There is a calculation for screws, but it is based on where the cabin is located and the wind forces it will see. Your screw spacing is what results from that calculation. You can figure out how many you need (be sure to include a 5% overage for breaks, strips or drops)

    Below is a back of the cuff spacing chart based on wind speeds:

    Typically, for low wind areas (under gusts of 70mph) you can go with a 12" o.c. spacing, 8" o.c. for winds up to and including 90mph, 6" o.c. for up to and including 120mph and 4" o.c. for extreme cases (120mph+).

    The folks at SBS or any of the truss plants may be able to get you a better estimate of the number of screws.

    Personally, I built a shed in a 90mph area and put my screws over the supports @ 8" o.c. Looking down at it, it is a 8" screw pattern into each of the joists.

  3. #3
    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    I have all ways gone with the 2' in the field, and 1' on the seams. Seam screw are 3/4" , field screws are 1". I also Pre drill my holes on the ground so as to when you install it , it all is nice and uniformed. You can drill about 5 sheets at a time without breaking to many drill bits.

    Oh ya, I also live in Delta, and hav'nt had one blow off yet.

  4. #4
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    When I sell metal roofing I sell the field screws as one per square foot. We sell #14x1" woodgrips for most applications. For the stitch screws they are #12x3/4" and they are 1/3 the amount of the field screws.

    Most panels sold are 9" o/c spacing between the ribs. You want a screw on the panel right next to the rib. By using one per square foot you end up with approximately 16" between rows of screws vertically. I space the stitch screws the same way...16"o/c vertically (down the slope)

    Don't skimp on trims. Properly installed the gable and eave trim extend the life of your fascia boards immensely, as well as add blow off protection from the wind on the gable sides.

    My 16" spacing is good enough for winds in the 90 mph range according to ASC, my metal supplier.
    Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

  5. #5
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock_skipper View Post
    I have all ways gone with the 2' in the field, and 1' on the seams. Seam screw are 3/4" , field screws are 1". I also Pre drill my holes on the ground so as to when you install it , it all is nice and uniformed. You can drill about 5 sheets at a time without breaking to many drill bits.

    Oh ya, I also live in Delta, and hav'nt had one blow off yet.
    Same here, and thatís a very good tip on the drilling. I go to 6" along the windward edges then 1 & 2 foot over the rest.

  6. #6
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    2' on the flat, 1' on the seams. The only trim I use is ridge metal. 20 years and counting, no problems.

    More screws hold more snow.

    Screw length is determined by what you're attaching to.

  7. #7
    Member moosehead08's Avatar
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    Default Trim

    I would not skimp on the trim as you are better doing it once preserving that wood rather than pulling off a rotten fascia board in a few years due to cosmetic or structural reasons and the then doing it again just to put trim on it later. But you can get by putting it on next year if you can't afford it now.

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