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Thread: 375 Ruger Basic Brass

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    Member Double Shovel's Avatar
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    Default 375 Ruger Basic Brass

    I'm helping a friend get his 375 Ruger ready for hunting season. In the mail today he received hornady dies and a box of 50 - 375 Ruger Basic - brass (also hornady). This brass has no headstamp and is totally straight walled (no shoulder or neck). I'm assuming we can use the regular sizing die procedure to shape this brass. We will check dimensions of shaped brass with the micrometer and try in rifle chamber before loading. Is this a reasonable approach? Any other considerations for making 375 Ruger brass out of this "basic" stock (more or less lube, size in a couple stages, trim after sizing, etc.)? Thanks in advance.

    DS

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    Good luck, basic brass is for wild cat stuff. With any luck Murphy will chime in and set you on the right track. He mentioned something a while back about Ruger Basic brass and a larger than .375 project.

    Just wondering if the basic brass was a mistake, why didn't you buy .375 brass if that is what you are loading?

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    375 Ruger brass was out of stock and on back order. Mistake to order "basic"? Maybe. I suppose I don't have a definitive answer yet. We can send it back to Midway if this project isn't going to work, or sell it to a local wildcatter from the sounds of things. Always something new with reloading - I love it.

    DS

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    Should be just a simple lube it and run it through the sizing die. You will probably have to trim as I think the basic brass will run a little long. Like said before, hopefully Murphy will chime in on this in a while.

  5. #5

    Default Basic

    I use the Belted Magnum Basic brass to form .375 Weatherby brass. Works good and is easy. I am pretty sure it would be the same for your basic Ruger brass. Just run it through the full length die and make sure to trim to length. Some will tell you to aneal also, but I never have.
    "Everything that lives and moves will be food for you. Just as I gave you the green plants, I now give you everything."

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    Thanks for the help everyone. We'll give it a try tonight or in the morning and see how it goes. If the brass works out, we'll try some RL15, 260 Nosler Accubonds and Partitions, set off by a few Fed 215M's. Thanks again.

    DS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double Shovel View Post
    Thanks for the help everyone. We'll give it a try tonight or in the morning and see how it goes. If the brass works out, we'll try some RL15, 260 Nosler Accubonds and Partitions, set off by a few Fed 215M's. Thanks again.

    DS
    The following recipes work very well in my .375 Alaskan. The Accubond grouped under an inch and the TSX put 4 shots touching. Hotter loads are possible but accuracy went away in my rifle.

    The Fed 215M's and the CCI 250's are very similar in velocity. I had better ES and SD numbers with the 250's.

    Have fun, every rifle is different, be careful.


    RL-15 @ 74.5gr
    Brass – 2.571”
    CCI 250
    Nosler Accubond 260gr
    COL 3.335



    RL-15 @ 74.0gr
    Brass – 2.571”
    CCI 250
    Barnes TSX 270gr
    COL 3.313







    Last edited by marshall; 08-01-2009 at 17:14. Reason: data

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    Quote Originally Posted by Double Shovel View Post
    I'm helping a friend get his 375 Ruger ready for hunting season. In the mail today he received hornady dies and a box of 50 - 375 Ruger Basic - brass (also hornady). This brass has no headstamp and is totally straight walled (no shoulder or neck). I'm assuming we can use the regular sizing die procedure to shape this brass. We will check dimensions of shaped brass with the micrometer and try in rifle chamber before loading. Is this a reasonable approach? Any other considerations for making 375 Ruger brass out of this "basic" stock (more or less lube, size in a couple stages, trim after sizing, etc.)? Thanks in advance.

    DS
    The basic brass is longer and straight, no taper at all. I've made it into 423, 416, 411, and 358 and none of these could be done in one pass. All required the use of other dies. The best way to do it was to use a 404 Jeffery die, with its shallow shoulder, to start the process. You cannot neck down to a 30 degree shoulder directly. You'll need to maybe go to a 15 degree or less and also step the neck to some interim such as 416 then to 375. I have some 375 Ruger brass, new Hornady, in the box. I would swap if you want to save the work with firming. We could probably mail for a few bucks.

    I have a gazillion dies and can always find one on my bench to use for these different operations so I don't need to buy special forming dies, usually but I also have a collection of forming dies that work as interim dies to form different calibers. You may get by with just the Ruger die but I doubt it. Also the very best lube for such high pressure operations Imperial sizing die wax...it is simply the best but also the only lube for some forming operations. I'll go check and see for sure if I haven't packed up my brass, let me know if you wanna swap.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



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    Yep, I have two fifty piece boxes of 375 Ruger brass.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



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    Default Let's Swap

    Murphy, I think we'll have to take you up on your offer to swap. I'd like to try it for educational value, but I'm not sure we have the time if the project dies (pun intended) before we even get started. PM headed your direction. Thanks for the help.

    DS

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    Ya know, You can pull a few of the basic out if you want to 'speriment with the operation. I'd say you basic cost more than the 375 Ruger headstamp brass anyway. Send me forty and I'll send my box. Have fun.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



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    Thanks Murph! 'Sperimentation underway!

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    I've been using the Hornady basic 375 Ruger brass brass to make a wildcat on that case (one of Murphy's developments) and I had an interim die made to form that 30 degree shoulder. This die sets the shoulder at the right point along the body at about 15 degrees and tapers the case then the 416 Cotter die forms it to 30 degrees at the correct diameter. I then need to trim it to 2.570" and I'm done. This form die was made by Redding but other makers will do it.

    That brass is really very good to work with and could be used to form down to probably 30 caliber but would take 3 dies to get there. Imperial lube is a big help.

    BTW this 416 of mine was one of the first on the 416 case with the Murphy modified shoulder and a full .400" of neck length to hold heavy bullets. I have taken a heavy male lion and two cape buffalo with it and it is all the Rigby or Remington can be without a belt and in a standard length action. It is also a nice feeling to see my name on the caliber stamp on the barrel and soon will have the brass headstamped and made for me. Thanks Murphy.
    Mike
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