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Thread: Hull protection

  1. #1
    Member AlaskaRanger's Avatar
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    Default Hull protection

    Any thoughts on what the best bottom protection for river boats is? UHMW, Rhino, etc. I have a phantom and plan on "beefing up" the hull.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Definately not Rhino lining! UHMW has a good following. My vote goes for steel plate. The only real armor is ARMOR!

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    Member broncoformudv's Avatar
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    The only things that will help beef up a boat hull are more bracing, steel plate, and the UHMW. The UHMW will add some protection from boulders and make it slide over things better. The steel plate will add more protection from hard objects.

  4. #4

    Default Umhw

    I try keeping up on this as I have a sport jon, but just doesn't seem feasible to put it on. It seems like if you buy the boat with it on, it has a much better chance of making it work, otherwise you are stripping your boat and doing a lot of work to it. I know a guy that bought an xs with the UMHW and it is a dog with the added weight. I figure the best way I will protect my hull is possibly welding on another thin layer of aluminum if needed.

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    [QUOTE=northway;540950] I know a guy that bought an xs with the UMHW and it is a dog with the added weight.


    I'm pretty sure UMHW is a buoyant produt and will float its own weight in water..

    I've seen many airboat and Jets not perform after poorly installed plastic.

    Install is everything with this stuff. The guys at CAC plastics sell and install UMHW.

    I do not recommend doing it without extensive research first.

  6. #6
    Member c-bolt's Avatar
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    The only question on UMHW is "WHEN" will it peel off? UMHW is not a maintenance free product, it will come off one time or another. It just depends what you want though. On my next boat I will be getting a steel plate instead of the plastic. I ran the idea of the plastic by several VERY experienced operators/builders and they all pretty much agreed the steel is a better idea.

    Im sure Chriso will be by shortly to give you his take as well

    Joe

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    Definately not Rhino lining! UHMW has a good following. My vote goes for steel plate. The only real armor is ARMOR!
    I agree with you, LuJon. When I bought my boat the chines, 1st lapstrake and front 1/3 of the bottom had been coated with a "rino lining like" product although I could not find a vendor that knew for sure what it was. The previous owner had not filled any of the voids where the gel coat had been rock scraped...so there was no adhesion where it was most needed. Tried many methods to remove it. Rawhide mallet and beveled spatula/scraper worked best. I had many hours of practice by the time I got it all off and did appropriate repairs. A big thing to consider is how difficult, time consuming, and expensive it will be to fix the fix when that need arises.

  8. #8
    Member alaskanmoosehunter's Avatar
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    Flip that hull upside down and line it with:



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  9. #9
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    I am planning on adding Teflon paint to my hull when I get home and start working on the boat for next year. That will not add protection for the boat per say but hopefully it will add some protection my back when it comes to pushing it back into the water when my lackluster seamanship skills rear their ugly head again...
    My next boat will likely be a riddle RMX. I just need to figure out 1 how the heck to afford it, 2 if they have a model that will really do what I want. I need to be able to haul my family of 5 long distances for moose hunting with a nice comfy camp then bring a moose (or two) back out. I also want to dipnet from it and be able to fish at off of it. That is a TALL order, expecially when I am 6'5" 245 and I expect my kids (3 boys) to be pretty much as big or god forbid bigger!! This is one reason I will never sell my Wooldridge despite the temptation lately. My spoilde kids will learn to drive it so we can have 2 boats on our adventures...

    I figure that I will get some sort of teflon bottom coating on the RMX as well for the same reasons. Of course by the time I get that far my boys should be so used to pushing a tackling sled around that I won't even need to get out of the boat.

  10. #10
    Member JOAT's Avatar
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    The BEST hull protection.... don't hit stuff.

    Everything else is going to cost lots of money, reduce performance, and create new maintenance headaches.

    All "paint on" coatings have a fairly short lifespan and will fall off. That said, Glovit is probably the best and if applied properly will last many years. I know we put Glovit on the bottom of drift boats for the Kasilof that was being bounced off rocks and the boat was dragged up the beach by winch and onto a trailer up in the parking lot. Even after several years of that abuse, the Glovit was still fully in place. The surface prep and installation is key, however.

    Plastic is heavy (even stuff that "floats" adds weight that the motor must push... and UHMW doesn't float worth a dang as it's near neutral). It is difficult to install correctly and requires modifications to the hull in the process. The attachment method is key. Most all UHMW installations I've seen have failed at some point. Some fail on the first trip out. Due to the often permanent hull mods to put on plastic, getting rid of it is just as time consuming and costly as installing it.

    Added aluminum or steel plate ought to be OK. I've no experience with putting steel plate on a boat, but most of what I've dealt with is going on saltwater. Adding a dissimilar metal would be suicidal to the boat. Beefing with more aluminum on a welded aluminum hull is probably the easiest way to beef a boat. More plate below often means more bracing up above, so it can still be an extensive project. If your hull is a tin-foil riveted one with rolled in hull stiffeners, then it will not be as easy to install more alumium either.

    Just a thought, if one has a specific armor requirement in a boat hull, why not get that hull custom built from the get-go instead of buying a boat that won't do what you want and trying to modify it? I've never understood this. Guys will buy a "cheap" boat and spend more money "fixing" it than it would have cost to get the right boat in the first place. The "fixes" nearly always fail and you're back to the drawing board at some point, but with a broken boat.
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  11. #11
    Member TWB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    My next boat will likely be a riddle RMX. I just need to figure out 1 how the heck to afford it, 2 if they have a model that will really do what I want. I need to be able to haul my family of 5 long distances for moose hunting with a nice comfy camp then bring a moose (or two) back out. I also want to dipnet from it and be able to fish at off of it.
    Shootin for the Cargo Lite w/ t1 hull come spring time. That is one sexy f'n boat!! Tryin to convince the ole lady we should take a trip to Idaho then OH HEYYYYYYY it's the RM shop..lets go for a ride!

    I like that you can add the Armor plated bottom then tack on another layer to the hull.
    We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home; in towns and cities; in shops, offices, stores, banks anywhere that we may be placed

  12. #12
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    I agree w/ you there JOAT, that is why I drive a wooldridge and drool over the RMX. One day i will have both though...one day...




    How sad is it that I almost come across as if I am complaining and I still drive a Wooldridge...<grin>

  13. #13

    Default protection

    Best protection is, don't hit rocks, etc.

  14. #14
    Member AlaskaRanger's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Thanks......

    for all the thoughts and info. I will let everyone know what I decide and what the effects are.

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