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Thread: Bear fences?

  1. #1

    Default Bear fences?

    Anyone have recent experience with the newer, compact bear fences? I'm thinking about trying one this year, but have never talked to anyone who has actually used one in the field. Specifically, I am interested in playing around with the UDAP fence.

    Don Mulligan
    www.outdoorswithdon.com

  2. #2

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    If you search the old threads for "bear fence", there have been several threads on that topic. As I recall, the UDAP fences received pretty good reviews.

  3. #3

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    Talk with Marc Taylor, I know he used one on his brown bear hunt and I believe, on his Kodiak hunt this past spring. He told me he'd never bear hunt without and I am planning on using one this fall on my sheep hunt.

  4. #4

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    I see cabela's has them in there bargin cave for about $200

  5. #5
    Moderator stid2677's Avatar
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    Don. The UDAP fences work very well. Get a small light tester to use with it. If you set up on a gravel bar use alternating hot and ground wires instead of using the ground as a ground. The gravel won't ground well enough. As you can see it is plenty big enough for a camp. Have a great season.



    Steve

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by AkHunter45 View Post
    Talk with Marc Taylor, I know he used one on his brown bear hunt and I believe, on his Kodiak hunt this past spring. He told me he'd never bear hunt without and I am planning on using one this fall on my sheep hunt.
    I picked up a small 2 lb fence from MarC that encloses a 20'X20' area. It packs up nice and small. Plan on using it to protect the base camp on Kodiak this October. Although I don't think I'd be lugging it up the mountain when chasing sheep, I'm too much of a wuss for that.

  7. #7

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    Camp will be at the bottom and tent setup next to our wheelers. We won't be staying in a spike camp unless it is absolutely neccessary. I wouldn't even bring the fence but if it makes the wife feel safe then it's worth it.

    P.S. Luke, I sent you a pm.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitetime View Post
    I see cabela's has them in there bargin cave for about $200
    Three Bears in Kenai has them for $199.
    "Everything that lives and moves will be food for you. Just as I gave you the green plants, I now give you everything."

  9. #9
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    Call Fence Emporium and ask for Keenan. He is in Palmer and makes and sells them for the state a lot.

    His price is smoking and he builds whatever size you want.

  10. #10
    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    I have one of the lightweight UDAP fences and used it this past Sept on a float in NW. Great kit and packs light. I like Stids idea to increase grounding. I may have to try that. But even in the gravel bars I got decent current through mine. Link below to the fence I have and as the other guy mentions, it is on sale at Cabelas...

    http://www.udap.com/bearshock.htm

    http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...458&hasJS=true


    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

  11. #11

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    Follow Stids advice on gravel bars. I just returned from a week long float trip and the fence failed miserably on the gravel bar. I unzipped my tent door on the 2nd morning and my dog jumped out before I could tell her no! I was like, Oh crap! She ran right between the 2 hot wires which had no affect! Good for the pooch but obviously useless for bears.

    We should have put the ground wire between the 2 hot wires for proper function on dry gravel bars.

  12. #12

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    Thanks for all the info and great pics. I would have never thought of the grounding issue. I'm gonna get one before hunting season this year and give it a try. Last year a decent griz hung around camp all week, but wasn't as much of a nuisance as a porcupine that kept checking out my tent. I'd like to keep both away.

    Don Mulligan

  13. #13
    Member tboehm's Avatar
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    Default question

    I'm not good with electricity but i've seen the comments about not gounding well on gravel bars and was wondering if it wouldn't be possible to ground right in the water then you would have that problem and wouldn't have to worry about contact with the 2 wires?

  14. #14
    Member fshgde's Avatar
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    Default grounding in water

    I wouldn't set a tent up that close to the water and leave it any sudden rise in water level there goes camp . A second grounding rod can help in this situation of a poor ground. They sell a electic fence tester that shows the power level in the fence which is very light weight and better than using the dog.

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    Default Fence set up...

    Here's how I set up my ground, get a length of bare aluminum wire long enough to run about 2 feet outside of your fence. It's very light, get 14 or 12 awg size. Stake it to the ground using those cheap aluminum tent stakes. Don't use plastic... Get as much ground contact as you can, stake it where the ground is uneven and all 4 corners. The distance should be set so if a bear is standing at the fence one foot would be on or near the ground wire and his nose would touch the hot wire. Make a conplete loop around your fence and leave extra lenght to connect to the charger.

    I only use two hot wires instead of three and have taller poles. I don't think the third wire so low to the ground will do you any good unless your trying to keep ground squirrels out of your potato chips...

    Don't waste you money on a fancy tester, get a blade of grass (6-8 inch) and touch the tip to the fence, slowly move it closer until you can start to feel the shock. If your right up to your finger before you feel it you should look at your set up and see if something isn't right. If you hunt in rubber boots you might have to kneel down to test it, the boots insulate you pretty good...

    Another thing I've found is that if it gets real cold the batteries won't put out enough current and your fence will be weak, I've set mine up in the evening and it tested fine but woke up with frost on the ground and the fence bearly working. (batteries cold) If you figure out a solution for that let me know...

  16. #16

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    I'd wrap a couple of those chemical hand warmers with rubber bands or small bungies around it to keep the batteries warm.

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    I would use a 6 or 12 v battery and a voltage regulator to keep the voltage at the proper level; or add a 1.5 v battery in series to the battery supply to increase the voltage.

    Are you sure the problem is the battery when it get cold, it could be the electronics circuit does not like the cold.

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    Default I am telling you guys

    Call Keenan at Fence Emporium in Palmer

    He knows his stuff and sells TONS to the state. He builds them there to any size you want and is a master at how to rig them in all situations.

    His price is half of the one with the cool bear picture on it.

    180 bucks and mine has the capacity to be 3 times the size of the one in the picture above if I want and that is a complete unit and still using D batteries. .

    Not sure how many have seen the one in Atigun Pass around the camp up there but he did that one as well.

    If you want a compact one he can build that too.

  19. #19
    Member 6XLeech's Avatar
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    Default Good additional info for setup/use of bear fences...

    such as how high the top/bottom wires, getting/testing for an effective ground:

    http://www.wildlife.alaska.gov/index...ences#portable

    Best wishes this season.

  20. #20
    Member Vince's Avatar
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    I think i will forward this thread to the guy who does Tudra cartoons....


    " every morning at six am says the bear... little bell rings and out they come.... Right through that ONE gate"
    "If you are on a continuous search to be offended, you will always find what you are looking for; even when it isn't there."

    meet on face book here

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