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Thread: North River OS 26

  1. #1
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    Default North River OS 26

    Hey guys,
    A good friend of mine has purchased one of the North River OS 26 boats from the auction in Seattle. The boat is unrigged and I think first on his list is power.
    He is thinking of twin 150 Yamahas and a T-8 kicker. He had a question regarding deep water anchoring. In Alsaska there seem to be quite a few who anchor deep for halibut and bottom fish. He has been anchoring here in Washington in 500 plus ft a lot lately during halibut season and found that when pulling anchor, he though he could us more power. He's not fishing out of the North River yet as it is still bare but uses another big aluminum but that his friend has.
    If you have a similar set up boat wise and do deep water anchoring,(he has a 10kilo bruce w' 50ft of chain and 1200ft of rope), do you find that your boat has enough power to pull the anchor with ease?
    I think he plans to go with Furuno electronics. He definitely wants a 1KW thru hull transducer. Fairing block or tilted element?

    Any input is appreciated and thanks.
    Beeee

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    Pulling anchor as in with a buoy and seine ring? If so, I can't see what the big deal is. I have a 26' hewes with a 225 honda, and pulling the 10kg bruce with 30' chain is about effortless. I've not anchored that deep, but I've been 320' or so.

    As for transducers, the hot item for tin boats seems to be the stainless steel tilted element Airmar. A couple thoughts on that. When you drill a 3+ inch hole in your hull, you'd better be doggone sure you're installing it right. Don't bother with anything brass or bronze below the waterline - it won't play nicely with the aluminum.

    I've seen a couple of internet installations of the stainless tilted element airmar on a tin boat where the boatmaker provided a short, reinforced hull extension off the transom that is drilled for the transducer. Shouldn't be a big deal for a good aluminum fabricator. I can't remember offhand how the outboard bracket is configured on a north river, so the transom tab installation might not be feasible.

  3. #3
    Member Snagger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vek View Post
    Pulling anchor as in with a buoy and seine ring? If so, I can't see what the big deal is. I have a 26' hewes with a 225 honda, and pulling the 10kg bruce with 30' chain is about effortless. I've not anchored that deep, but I've been 320' or so.

    As for transducers, the hot item for tin boats seems to be the stainless steel tilted element Airmar. A couple thoughts on that. When you drill a 3+ inch hole in your hull, you'd better be doggone sure you're installing it right. Don't bother with anything brass or bronze below the waterline - it won't play nicely with the aluminum.

    I've seen a couple of internet installations of the stainless tilted element airmar on a tin boat where the boatmaker provided a short, reinforced hull extension off the transom that is drilled for the transducer. Shouldn't be a big deal for a good aluminum fabricator. I can't remember offhand how the outboard bracket is configured on a north river, so the transom tab installation might not be feasible.
    I second the Airmar tilted stainless ducer reccomendation.

  4. #4

    Default Furuno is wise choice

    I have used and seen many electronics manufacturers products and IMHO Furuno is superior to all others. Garmin has some nice products but I believe their sounders do not provide the detail that Furuno does. When looking for bait or salmon they are not even in the same league. It could be a problem of transducer choice/mount but I don't think so. It seems to me that some systems focus more on one aspect or another like navigation, etc but for fishing I will go with Furuno.

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    Member Sobie2's Avatar
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    What auction was this? A North River auction?

    Sobie2

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    Yes,
    North River just had a big auction by a liquidating company due to some bad business. I'm not sure of the details but they are out there if you search them out.

  7. #7
    Member M Gho's Avatar
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    Default Nr os

    I have a 24' that I just took out for the first time earlier this month. The tilted Airmar is the bomb. 22lb anchor and 30'chain on 600' works fine. I really like my Garmin set up. The T8 is great - what is your buddy going to do for a heater ? It cruises right along and has some legs to go out pretty far. I went through some big stuff on the blue water and it handles great, no complaints. Too bad NR is out of business, they made a great product.

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    Don't know about the heater. I imagine propane on deck and I'm not sure about the cabin. Not as critical here to have cabin heat but nice at times for sure.
    Dave Beeeeee

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Airmar is releasing a transom mount version of their 1kw multi element transducer, so you can get top notch performance w/o punching a big hole in your hull.

    My buddy is running a Furuno fcv 620 w/ the cheapy transom mount 600w transducre and he said the performance is amazing. If you can swing the fcv 585 w/ a 1kw transducer it'll be even better yet.

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    I'm running the FCV 620 with the Airmar P66 transom mount cheapy and I think it is far ahead of what I used to run. I wonder when they are coming out with that 1KW transom mount?

  11. #11
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    The tm 260, 1kw transom mount is supposed to be out this summer, but as far as I know isn't in stores yet.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vek View Post
    Don't bother with anything brass or bronze below the waterline - it won't play nicely with the aluminum.

    wouldn't stainless also be a problem? As far as I know, dissimilar metals should not be touching each other under the waterline or it will cause electrolosis. I took off a few stainless rod holders from my aluminum railing and the 1'' aluminum was eaten down to less than 7/8'', and that was above the waterline. I can't imagine what would happen on the hull. I've always been told you need to get a plastic or aluminum thru-hull for an aluminum boat.

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    The airmar stainless thru-hull units come with a pretty hefty plastic isolator piece. No direct contact between SS and Aluminum is made.

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