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Thread: Training update 11 May

  1. #1
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    Default Training update 11 May

    First of all thank you Wetlands and River Rat very much for your advice. I am employing it every time I train my dog. Today we worked on heel, not running circles around poop or pee and sitting and not scooting her butt.

    I tried to let her run around a bit before we trained so she would go before training but to no good use. As soon as we got ready to start training she pooped. To start things off I put her on a short leash and worked on heel. I would tell her to heel, then sit, when she sat I would move away from her and tell her to heel. When she tried to run a circle around me I'd block her with my leg and pull the leash the direction I wanted her to go. She picked up the hang of it pretty fast. She is having a little trouble picking up aligning her butt with the way I am facing sometimes. However she did make an improvement today so I will see what time can fix.

    After the heel training I went to the area she pooped and set a bumper pile about 3 feet behind it. Then on either side of the poop I placed barriers that forced her to run over the pile of pooh to get a bumper. I again put her on the leash, placed her at heel and then gave her the command back to the pile. At first she instantly tried to go around the pile but I didnt let her. I told her no, made her re-heel and sent her back again. This time she went over it on the out trip but on the back trip tried to go around. I told her no and then pulled the leash to guide her in the direction I wanted her to go. We spent about 20 minutes on this before she finally decided to quit fighting it and just went straight out and back every time. Tomorrow I am going to increase the distance between her and the pile and see how that goes.

    One problem of hers that I need to correct is when I tell her to sit she has a tendancy to start scooting her butt as soon as I turn my back. Not much, she may only move 6 inches or a foot but she still only does it when my back is turned. This is hard for me to correct because I do 90 percent of my training alone. Another sit problem she has is keeping her butt on the ground but spinning the rest of her body around to get a better look at me. To try and fix this today I would sit her, and then start walking slow circles around/behind her, she would try and watch me and when I'd get directly behind her she tried to turn. I instantly said no, and kept going. After about 5 minutes of this she got the point and decided to turn her head instead of pivot around to see me. I was happy with this however as soon as I turned my back she would pivot or scoot. I do have an E-Collar but do not want to use it to punish her. Only to enforce what she already knows. She knows she is not supposed to be scooting or spinning like that but she has figured out that she can get away with it and does it anyways. I am also afraid of using it at only the sound of her moving. For all I know she could be turning just her head and I hear the collar jingle. Any pointers on this? It is really frustrating.
    "A dog has no use for fancy cars or big homes or designer clothes. Status symbol means nothing to him. A waterlogged stick will do just fine." Marley and Me

  2. #2
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    Default nice work

    I like to hear you taking advice, and trying it, regardless of who gave it. Keep in mind that for some of these concerns you are building new habits, and changing old ones. That takes time and patience.
    Be careful about doing too many things at once. To me, at once means during the same session. What is important? Why are you "there"? Focus on the task at hand. Heeling work and stick drills are yard work for me. Rarely do I work on them in the field. Sure, if I see an issue, I apply corrections, but I also do what I can to stay away from the problem. At home, my yard work intensifies to the point I am adding distractions to get corrections. I am talking about days or weeks of yard work.
    I look for perfection at home with as many distractions thrown in as I can. Then I might head to the park, or a public place to do leash and obedience work, starting at the basics, and building in distractions again. My goal is to get that done away from where I train on field work as best I can. I want the dog to understand that a command is a command regardless of where we are. But if I have to hound the dog where I am doing field work, then I am taking away from our main focus. Make sense?
    If I set my expectations high, and do that work elsewhere, my corrections in the field make sense for the dog, and typically we can use less of them.
    If you do not understand collar conditioning and use, go to a pro. They are great tools if used wisely.
    I have avoided talking about the scoothing butt directly. I hope though I gave you some ideas on when and where to work on it if you feel it is a problem. I'd have to watch her to see for myself and put the big picture together.

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm agreeing with AKRR.
    Don't address so much in one session(if this was all in one session). Break it up. Doing to much in one session may overlaod your dog.

    Maybe practice heeling for awile then put her up. Come back several hours later and do the pile work. Just as examples. Dogs only remember the last thing they just did. So I put them away thinking about it. So if you do heeling then go right into pile work. Then theoretically she only will hold unto the knowledge she learned from that. You are programming her. But you have to do it one kila byte at a time.

    Sit, steadiness:
    I use place boards 90% of the time. At first it is simply an elevated platform. Just large enough for the dog to sit on. Heck, it can even be a large piece of firewood turned on the end. I use "place" or the "kennel" command to get them on the platform. This will make this very black and white for the dog. Coming off is bad and results in correction. Staying on gets rewarded. The elevated part really helps define the lesson and prevents breaking. Once this is consistent then you can use rubber mats on the ground.
    For spinning on her rear. Simple. She is using her front legs to push herself around to keep an eye on you. Hobble her front legs together so she can't use them to rotate. Easy to do. Just take a long 24 inch choke chain(maybe shorter depending on the size of the dog) and loop each foot with it. One foot in each end. Then do your lesson as normal and walk around her.

  4. #4
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    Default I like the log

    what a neat idea. Elevate them in a manner they can't get hurt, but defines exactly where they are supposed to be. Very nice. Hobbling? I have to think about it a bit. Not that it is bad, just thinking about options.
    If moving their feet leads to creeping that is unacceptable, or worse, breaking, then I guess I have to stop the feet from moving. Some would say any creeping is bad. Again, just depends on a handlers focus, and the individual dog's propensity to take a creep to a break.

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