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Thread: Coleman Scanoe needs a lift

  1. #1
    Member garnede's Avatar
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    Default Coleman Scanoe needs a lift

    I have an older design Coleman Scanoe 15' and a sea king 5hp 1960's era. I have used it in lakes just fine, but when running in the Little Su the motor hangs too far below the boat. I have to tilt the motor up for shallower sections, and lift it out of the water on shallow sections. I have read several old threads about adding lifts, hydofoils, runners, rockhoppers, dolefin, and skirts. I am sure many of these attachments will not fit my old motor, but it is what I have. How should I set up my boat, inexpensively, to protect my motor and get the most use out of it?

    If I went cheep and built an extension of my transom, where should my prop sit in relationship to my hull? Thanks for any help.
    It ain't about the # of pounds of meat we bring back, nor about how much we spent to go do it. Its about seeing what no one else sees.

    http://wouldieatitagainfoodblog.blogspot.com/

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    Member garnede's Avatar
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    Thanks to the two of you who sent PM's. I would realy like to see some other peoples homeade lifts even if it is not on a scanoe.

    Also any recomendations for height to set the motor? I do not mind if I loose a little top end performancebut I want to have to lift my motor off of the bottom less often. Thanks
    It ain't about the # of pounds of meat we bring back, nor about how much we spent to go do it. Its about seeing what no one else sees.

    http://wouldieatitagainfoodblog.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
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    Default motor hight

    you want the caveration plate even with the botton of canoe, what happends is when you turn on high speed it will caverate on high speed turns,
    will efect the high speed turns frist then it will effect the high speed rur. what you want to do is put a rizer on try it out then start cutting it off at 1/2 inch each time then when you figure that you cut to much off put a 1/2 inch shim back under the motor to raze it up, if it is what you want messure it an make a new ont of the correct hight you want, it is best to do all this in a lake where you don't worry about anything but the boat an how it works you will need to extend the tiller handle SID

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    Member garnede's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Based on your advice I went home and measured my motor and hull to see how much I need to move. My cavitation plate is already 1" above the bottom of my hull. But my motor has about 9" below the cavitation plate. I sometimes hit bottom with just the canoe, and the motor sits at least another 8" below the canoe. Does anyone know about these lifts that allow you to move the motor on the fly? Thanks again.
    It ain't about the # of pounds of meat we bring back, nor about how much we spent to go do it. Its about seeing what no one else sees.

    http://wouldieatitagainfoodblog.blogspot.com/

  5. #5
    Member matjpow's Avatar
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    Default

    Can you post the photo's of the lifts? I have a coleman with a 5hp also. How does yours do on the Little Su? I wasn't sure how it would do on moving water.

    I am thinking about pulling out the pin that locks it forward so that if I do hit a log the motor will just swivel back. I just wouldn't be able to use reverse but I'm not sure how much I would use reverse on moving water.

  6. #6
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    Default lift

    even with a lift on the canoe you do not have a pin in the motor, as if you do hit some thing solid you want the motor to bounce up not be riped off, or stop the canoe, an as for reverse I just turn around hold the motor down by hand, [works for me] it will give some problems in full reverse but not bad
    now it might not work for the smaller canoe's but on the 19 ft GRUM. where you stand up an run in small places so you can see in front of the canoe, that works just fine for me SID

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