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Thread: How to clean very rusty bore...

  1. #1
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    Default How to clean very rusty bore...

    I have just bought another viper .22 from a friend & paid only $30 for it, as the bore was very rusty, & had a shell rusted stuck in the chamber...I've sprayed the bore with WD40 & ran a brush through the bore numerous times, & used a turpintine based bore cleaner as well, & it isn't as rusty as it was, but I can see that the rust spots were just "smoothed" over.

    My question is, do I have to ream or lap this bore to get out the rust, or is it just as the guy who sold it to me as, parts?

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    You could lap it, it may work, but likely you have pits with cancer in them a lap wont remove. WD-40 sucks for rust, the WD stands for water displacing so itís great to remove water . . . rust, not so much. There are chemicals that will get it out like muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric acid) that will eat it all out before you lap, but there is also a chemical used in auto body work that de-oxidizes the iron back into the steel. I donít remember what itís called but it does exist and I would look into that route. No matter what you will still have pits in it, but may still be a shooter.
    Andy
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    How about "fire lapping"? I've shot some amazing crud out of my Curio & Relic guns, many of which look like they've been shot with corrosive ammo and then stacked in a damp warehouse for several decades. I've had some very happy experiences going from dark sewer pipe with no visible rifling, to sharp clear rifling on a lightly pitted bore. Bullets, especially jacketed bullets, actually seem to do an amazingly good job of scraping out rusty junk from the bore; way better than solvents, patches, or bronze brushes. After a good shooting, clean the bore normally.

    If you're worried the thing might be unsafe to shoot (e.g., bore constricted with rust, or substantially thinned), I will usually bungee the rifle to a tree, tie a long string to the trigger, and shoot it from behind a dirt berm.

    But I've never tried this with soft lead bullets. Let me know if it helps!

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    I have also cleaned nasty crap from old curio guns by firing them. The thing about them was they were stored in cosmoleen packing not just chucked in a basement corner. May work great or may leave cancer in the pits that will keep growing like a cavity in a tooth. Just a $30 gun so not a huge risk whatever way you go with it.
    Andy
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    I would use some steel wool, and solvent. Then do it again, MANY TIMES.

    Then see how it shoots before designating it "parts".

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Chuck up your cleaning rod in a cordless drill and work it over for a while with stoddard solvent. It will work wonders.
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    The quick and dirty evaluation would be to go shoot it and if the case sticks in the chamber, maby try twice, but if theres streaks on the brass from the pits and you have to pry, its junk.

    If the chambers still releasing the cartrige case and your extractor can pull them out, the rest is "fixable" rutsy bores are often accurate, and if not a recrown will often bring them back in line.

    I used to buy "Century Arms specials" 5 ina wire bundle of Finned M-24's, 27's, 28's for 100$, and the same "missing parts/cracked stocks" for 50$ (and shipping) and often , they were only missing the rust that should have come at that price. We would shoot them, and the ones that had bad chambers were stripped for parts and mated to glud stocks taht were indeed "cracked" and with a 20$ kit, built into lamps (200$) and I would buy another bach. Those were the days.....

    Its a bad trigger that drives me nuts.
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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    A friend bought a rem 700 223 that had a serious case of bore rash. He'd spent hours on it with various cleaners, but it was still nasty rough. I tried a product called Knorustall which is a mild abrasive that usually does a pretty good job of removing rust. I gave it a go for awhile and it was still pretty rough.

    My buddy got the rifle for the action, so we figured no harm would be done to cut the barrel back and re-crown it, the muzzle was the worst. I lopped off 4", cut a target crown and he gave it to his son to see how it would shoot at the range. 100 yd group had 2 shots in the same hole an the 3rd within a 1/2 inch.

    The bore isn't pristine, but it does shoot.

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    How about a few patches with flitz on them once most of the rust is removed? It worked on my father in laws Marlin 22 last week after their house got flooded and the bore set in water for two days.

  10. #10

    Default Naval Jelly?

    Why not soak the bore with Naval Jelly, then brush, flitz, fire lap or whatever to smooth and preserve it. It should dissolve all the rust so no "cancer" in the bore.

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=169

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    Navel jelly will work on rust ....


    """BUT!!!""


    It will DISSOLVE the rifles blueing on contact, as well as make jelly outta your stock varnish.

    If you use navel jelly anywhere near a rifle BE CAREFULL!!!
    If you can't Kill it with a 30-06, you should Hide.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangerinastrangeland View Post
    Navel jelly will work on rust ....


    """BUT!!!""


    It will DISSOLVE the rifles blueing on contact, as well as make jelly outta your stock varnish.

    If you use navel jelly anywhere near a rifle BE CAREFULL!!!
    +1 on navel jelly and its associated warnings. Its good stuff that gets rid of rust real fast, but can screw up a lot of other things quickly too.

    For any external stuff, just hit it with jelly and some 000 steel wool. Not quite sure how to get at it IN the bore though. Maybe rig up a jag or something with some wool wrapped around it?

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    That naval jelly looks like a good product. In the past I have always used liquid blue/rust remover and I have found it can be difficult to control where it runs to, especially in the bore.

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