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Thread: Floating reticle & how to compensate?

  1. #1
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    Default Floating reticle & how to compensate?

    How do you compensate for a floating reticle on high power? I noticed that on high power (9 for my Leupold) that my reticle likes to float over the target about two inches all the time, and I noticed the pattern it floats left high to right low, even when I am not breathing...it floats at 3-6 but not as bad as it does with the 9 power.

    I basically wait until I think that the crosshairs are going to go over my bullseye & try to time the squeeze with the float over the bullseye.

    How do you compensate for the float of the reticle over your bullseye?

    Thanks
    Marv

  2. #2

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    RFI:
    are we talking about mirage apparent thorugh the scope?
    what distance to the target?

    If so, during periods of high mirage, you might need to turn the scope down....

  3. #3
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Sounds like you might have a scope problem. Either that or you don't have a solid stock weld and as your head moves relative to the scope the reticle appears to move. It could also be the parallex is set for different range that the distance you are shooting at.

    First work on a consistant solid stock weld and see if that cures the problem.

  4. #4
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    At first I thought you were talking about your scope but now I think you are asking about trigger control so that is the way I will go.


    There are several styles of trigger control and here are the two I find help me most. First is what I call “drop in” and I use it most with handguns, but also some rifles. I start the shot with the crosshair/sights holding high and thense up as I pull onto target so my trigger brakes just as I hover on target for a second. This takes a bunch of practice with the particular trigger and gun to do well, but works great when mastered.

    Second I call figure eight but it’s more like drawing the infinity sign slowley over the target with your crosshair/sights. As you come to the point you want to hit add a bit of trigger pressure until you pass the point then just hold the pressure steady till your coming by next time. This is a slow and study wins the race kind of deal that you should be surprised when the sear brakes and your gun fires.

    The drop-in is sort of like the Marine’s 6 O-clock hold but helps get on target and get the shot off faster teaching trigger control. For me the longer I try to hold the more I move so it’s better to move in a controlled manner than watch my heart rate pulsing the crosshair with every beet and trying to chase it. Getting some A-Zoom snap caps and spending time working on trigger control will be the single best thing you can do to improve your shooting no matter which type of aiming you employ.

    I’m sure there are better shooters here than me and I know there are a bunch of other tricks people use, but these two work well for me. Hope I helped more than confused you, good luck.
    Andy
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    Default

    I have a couple of scopes that do this noticeably, but all will do it to some extent…….. cheek weld and eye relief make or brakes it. Try moving your head farther back on the stock and try to maintain consistent cheek weld with the comb of the stock. Your reticle wont appear to drift about if your head is hard against the stock. It obviously isn’t the reticle that is moving, but rather your eyeball relative to the longitudinal axis of the scope.
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

  6. #6

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    Guess I dont; know quite what you mean by the float, by the different responses posted...coudl you elaborate?

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    Default Sorry for the confusion guys...

    but I am talking about 100 yds, & cheek weld good & solid sight picture on target, at 9 power, & stock resting on the back of something like a pack or snowmachine seat...the reticle isn't moving within the scope, but the reticle "hovers" over the bullseye when I am trying to aim center...much like in archery, the further out you aim, the more the pin sight hovers over more of the target.

    You see it more often on a high power, & when your breathing harder, I call it float, but others call it hovering. Like I said the reticle doesn't float/hover as bad when on a lower power, but you don't get a better sight picture on 3x @ 100yds than you do @ 9x @ 100yds.

    Hope this clears it up...

  8. #8
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Yup, it's still moving at 3X as much as 9X but you don't perceive it as much at the lower settings. On my 22-250 I have a 6X26 power and at 26X you see every little heart beet and breeze shoving you around.
    Andy
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    Default Thanks Adfields...

    your answer is exactly what I am referring to...

  10. #10

    Default movement

    Quote Originally Posted by ADfields View Post
    Yup, it's still moving at 3X as much as 9X but you don't perceive it as much at the lower settings. On my 22-250 I have a 6X26 power and at 26X you see every little heart beet and breeze shoving you around.
    try holding a pistol with a red dot on target !

    yes the iron sight pistol moves jkust as much, but is not apparent

    Same with a 16X scope on the 50FT A16 target

    Accept your wobble area and squeeze the trigger.
    -Old Marine Poster on Wilcox Range 113 MCB Pendleton

  11. #11
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    So you are talking about the gun moving.

    What I've found helps me hold on a target, is to line up the corner of the target square into the corner of the reticle. This also seems to help shooting tight groups with lower power scopes.

  12. #12
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    Default Exactly Paul...

    wondering how to hold the recticle on the target, & when to time the shot so that it's at or near center on my target...

    I'd love to get that sub MOA group I know my Savage 110 .30-06 is capable of, as I have had on two occasions done with a three shot group, but my movement is so large under 9x that I can't get a good consistant grouping.

    I just bought some collaspable legs to build a nice shooting bench & will try bench rest shooting my rifle to see if I can get the sub MOA groups, just to know that it can shoot them consistanly.
    Last edited by gogoalie; 05-01-2009 at 14:34. Reason: removed a reduncancy

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