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Thread: A malfuctioning Super Blackhawk: Suggestions?

  1. #1
    Member Hunt&FishAK's Avatar
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    Default A malfuctioning Super Blackhawk: Suggestions?

    I bought a slightly used ruger super blackhawk- new model, stainless .44 mag with a 7.5 inch barrel....seemed odd i only paid $350 for it, but took it out shooting the other day, and it would only fire half the time it seemed...like maybe the cylinders arent lining the primers up with the firing pin correctly...any ideas? i haved cleaned it and im shooting 240 gr. jacketed hollow points... it will fire maybe 2-3 times in a row then a couple misses...etc...very unsafe and unreliable in any matter. any help would be appreciated

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    Member Diesel Nut's Avatar
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    Check the transfer bar. If it's not moving all the way up, it won't transfer the hammer strike to the primer. Another place to look is at the firing pin itself. If there's a bunch of gunk (or it's bent or rusty), it won't slide freely and can cause misfires.

    I seriously doubt it's the cylinder not lining up. It would have to be way off for that to happen, and it would be obviously visible to the naked eye. Not to mention if one ever did ignite, it'd shave a lot of lead along the side of the forcing cone and put on a pretty good show...something you'd likely never forget

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    If you haven't done it already take the thing apart. They are very simple. Ruger even has online videos and you can download the owners manual as well.

    http://ruger.com/Firearms/N-RugerTV.html

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    Default Examine the primers and go through this function check

    Examine the primers.

    If there is good dent in the failed rounds (equal in appearance to the successfully fired rounds), suspect the ammunition.

    If there is no dent in the failed rounds, but a good dent in the fired rounds, suspect the gun.

    If there is a light dent in all rounds, suspect the ammunition. For example, what kind of primers are you using? If reloads, CCI primers are said to be made of harder metal than most other brands.

    The suggestion from Diesel Nut is a good one. You can see if it is working and it is even easier to see if you take the cylinder out. Just lower the hammer down with the trigger pulled all the way back. You should see the firing pin poke out of the breech face. When you operate the hammer and trigger you should be able to see the transfer bar (where the nose of the hammer falls into the frame). If the transfer bar's tip appears as if it has been broken off, it may be, and thus too short to do its job every time.


    check out this post to see how to inspect your revolver

    http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...ad.php?t=57816
    or if the link does not work, paste this address into your web browser
    thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57816

    If you are at the range and have a failure to fire, examine the primer of the cartridge that did not go off. Is there any firing pin dent at all? If there is a shallow dent, then the firing pin did hit the primer, but failed to ignite it. Too light of springs can do that, or dried lubricant around the firing pin (causing it to move sluggishly) by being gummed up. Solvent will fix that. Maybe even without disassembly.

    When you look at the dimple in the fired rounds that did go off, is the dent deep and round and more or less in the middle? If it is not deep, a weak strike (caused by the firing pin being gummed up, too-light of a mainspring or too short of a firing pin) If the dent is not round, the tip of your firing pin may have been chipped off.

    Lost Sheep

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunt&FishAK View Post
    it would only fire half the time it seemed...like maybe the cylinders arent lining the primers up with the firing pin correctly...
    Are you saying that the cylinder doesn't complete it's cycle when you pull the hammer back? ????

    If so, I suggest that you take it to a Gunsmith for analysis. The previous owner, may have broken a part and attempted to fix it himself.

    I'm certainly, no expert on revolvers, but I do know that “timing” is critical. I once broke the locking bolt on a Colt SA, and the guy who repaired it, (He TRIED) (and said he cut his teeth on Single Actions), messed it up pretty bad. It ended up going back to Colt, to be fixed correctly.

    Smitty of the North
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    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
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    Perform this check and respond back on this thread ASAP

    Remove the cylinder

    Close the loading gate

    Dryfire the pistol and observe the firing pin, DO NOT LET GO OF THE TRIGGER!

    Keep your eye on the firing pin......if it doesn't depress back into the frame the second you take your finger off the trigger........you have a broken firing pin. Make sure the pistol is facing down when you do this, so that gravity doesnt help the firing pin.

    Good luck.

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    Much more information is needed. It sounds to me like the previous owner put a spring kit in the gun.
    The very worst thing to do is to put a weaker mainspring in any gun to reduce trigger pull.
    The next bad thing to do to a Ruger is to weaken the trigger spring to the point it kicks forward. This drops the transfer bar off the lower edge of the firing pin. Failures and hang fires can result. Ruger engineered the gun for a hard pull and made the transfer bar short. The trigger must come all the way back when pulled for full contact. Lawyer crap!
    I get around it by making a new transfer bar that covers the whole firing pin, then I put in a Wolfe OVERPOWER variable mainspring in all of my revolvers. I grind off half the sear surface on the hammer, polish and break the sharp edge and can get 1-1/2# or less trigger pulls with full ignition.
    A gummed up firing pin? Maybe! Some dummy might have sprayed his gun with WD-40. Nothing will desolve the crap once it hardens. Changing parts fit by fooling around with them, maybe!
    Broken parts in a Ruger??? Not likely! In over 55 years of gunsmithing, I have never seen a Ruger with a broken part. Ham handed expert work, YES!

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    Member mainer_in_ak's Avatar
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    I sent a ruger single six back to the factory with a broken firing pin, they fixed it quickly. It was a new pistol with no work done to it.

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    A long time ago, I BROKE the trigger on my Ruger Single Six, (I was practicing fast draw.)and replaced it myself.

    I did a great job, shaping and polishing it. That's why it has such a good trigger pull now.

    Smitty of the North
    Walk Slow, and Drink a Lotta Water.
    Has it ever occurred to you, that Nothing ever occurs to God? Adrien Rodgers.
    You can't out-give God.

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    Member Hunt&FishAK's Avatar
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    cylinder appears to be cycling correctly, firing pin seems on time....transfer is what i think it is, or it could be havin to pull harder on the trigger, but havin grown up shooting them with my father ( who is a gunsmith in idaho) i doubt that....he figures the transfer bar as well.... thanks guys for the advice, im takin it to a friend of mine, have him look at it, then to a gunsmith...

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    Member marshall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hunt&FishAK View Post
    cylinder appears to be cycling correctly, firing pin seems on time....transfer is what i think it is, or it could be havin to pull harder on the trigger, but havin grown up shooting them with my father ( who is a gunsmith in idaho) i doubt that....he figures the transfer bar as well.... thanks guys for the advice, im takin it to a friend of mine, have him look at it, then to a gunsmith...
    For what it's worth, Ruger will repair it for free if there is a defect. If you or someone else damaged the gun somehow then they will charge for their work. I had an issue with a SRH and they fixed it for free in a week with great service. Call them and discuss your problem. If they feel it's a Ruger issue they will arrange for shipping.

    Sturm, Ruger & Co., Inc.
    Product Service Department
    411 Sunapee Street
    Newport, NH 03773
    (Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm EST)
    Telephone: 603-865-2442
    Fax: 603-863-6165

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