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Thread: Locktite and shellac on rings and bases?

  1. #1

    Default Locktite and shellac on rings and bases?

    I'm going to be putting a new scope as well as rings and bases on my .338 mag. in a few weeks, and was looking for any advice and recommendations as to using locktite on all the screws on the bases and rings, and using shellac on the rings and scope to keep it in place.
    I have a tube of Devcon Thread Locker (does the same thing as Locktite), and was considering whether to use it on all the screws when mounting the bases and rings. Is there any downsides to using thread lockers on bases and rings?
    Also, several members on this forum have recommended the use of shellac (specifically Indian Head Gasket Shellac). Putting a light coating of the liquid inside the rings and on the scope where they would be contacting each other when tightened, to help insure that the scope doesn't move. This sounds like a good idea, but I have no experience with using shellac, has anyone tried this method? How did it work. Also, if I were to replace the scope later, does the shellac come off easily? Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
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    I am by no means an expert at scope mounting, however, when I needed to mount a scope I did a lot of research and the answer that I came up with is probably no. Leupold recommends only using a little bit of oil on the screw threads. The oil actually helps keep them in place. On the other hand, a lot of people with far more experience than me say you should loctite on the screws. Most of my reading has never mentioned using any kind of shellac on the rings to keep the scope in place.

    I would suggest mounting it without using loctite and see if you have any problems. If you do need to use it, use some of the lightest stuff possible like blue or purple. I put a scope on my Ruger No. 1 in .30-06 and a CZ 550 in .375 H&H without using any and have had no problems with about 300 rounds through the No. 1 and 150 through the CZ 550 before I traded it.

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    I mounted a Nikon scope with Leupold rings and base on my Rem 700 30.06 about 5 years ago. I've run hundreds of rounds through it and never had ANY issue with shifiting or anything like that. Nothing on the rings themselves.

    I use Locktite purple.

    I removed the scope two days ago to do a glas bed job on this rifle and the screws came right off.

    I'll continue with the Locktite purple stuff. I see that Midway has it on sale.

  4. #4

    Default Locker

    While I'm not sure it's what everyone wants to hear. FOR the last 40 years while working at gunshops and on my own rifles at home the only anti-vibration juice I've used in clear finger-nail polish.
    It's clear, cheap, and always available; mom or the girls always have a bottle. Just clean the mateing surfaces/screw holes with alchohol on a Q-tip and apply a drop of finger-nail polish. In 20 mins it's there and it will come back off; if desired.
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  5. #5
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Use nothing on the rings but something on the screws.

    With dry threads you will get rust in steel and galling with other metals making it hard or imposable to remove. Oil and lockthght both lubricate threads as they go in, help them hold in place once in, and block the oxygen that corrodes things.

    I use oil unless there may be rotational load acting on the screw. In the case of a rotational load (like a pivoting sling swivel where the screw acts as the pivot) I use red locktight.

    I am not a fan of any goop on the rings and have seen damage from this. A good solid dry fit is the best way to go in the rings.

    Andy

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the input. I guess I'll try mounting the scope without anything in the rings (i.e. rosin, shellac, or rubber cement) and then apply the Devcon Thread Locker to all of the screws.

  7. #7
    Supporting Member Amigo Will's Avatar
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    Also about 40 years and agree with Brav01 on this.Also not just scopes but any pin or screw that tends to back out

  8. #8

    Default Epoxy

    I started epoxying my bases on magnums about ten years ago and now I do it on all my bolt action rifles. If I need to get the bases off it only takes a minute with a heat gun and they will come right off. I do use Loctite (Blue) on the screws and in the rings I use Midway friction stickers and have not seen any scope movement even in the old .375 H&HÖ.Big

  9. #9
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    Bigmnt:

    Hmmm, "Midway friction stickers". I've never heard of those, but I'll be checking.

    Maybe that's what I have, that came with a set of Millet scope rings. (Angle-Loc Windage Adjustable) "Great Strength with Light Weight". I haven't used them yet, and was wondering about'em.

    They're strips of something black and paper backed, and obviously meant to put in to the rings halves, since there are four of them.

    I imagine they are needed because of the design/size of these rings.

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  10. #10

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    linseed oil works well as a good anti-loosen substance. My dad used it for years and swears by it. I have had the same luck as well. Gets just tacky enough when dry to keep the screws from shifting.

  11. #11

    Thumbs up blue locktite

    I use blue locktite on the base screws and nothing on the rings. The scope in my quick detach Warne rings has probably been in there for over 12 years. It sits on a .338. Every year I check them with a small torque wrench.

  12. #12

    Default About the same

    I never have used anything on the rings or ring screws. If the rings themselves aren't holding the scope under recoil, then either the rings haven't been properly tightened down or the rings aren't fitting right.
    I use semi-permanent loctite on the base screws on anything I shoot. Might not be necessary for the lighter recoiling cartridges, but then again, it couldn't hurt.
    I've never applied oil to the ring screws and never had a problem because i check on my firearms regularly.

  13. #13
    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stratofisher View Post
    linseed oil works well as a good anti-loosen substance. My dad used it for years and swears by it. I have had the same luck as well. Gets just tacky enough when dry to keep the screws from shifting.
    Thatís a very good tip! I can see how that would work very well, it dries to a hardish gum rubber kind of solid in time and would do well.

    On the ranch I grew up on in Arizona most of us used soft nylon rope soaked in linseed oil and stretched along a fence to dry a couple months. This would yield a lariat (lasso) with the life or feel of the old rawhide dally ropes but the strength of nylon. Linseed oil is some very useful stuff.
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