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Thread: Tuning 1895 Guide Gun

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    Default Tuning 1895 Guide Gun

    Would like to know how to slick the action up a bit on my guide gun 1895gs. Its brand new and never been shot and is a little stiff So does anybody know where are all the spots are that need smoothing? Ive got a dremel tool with plenty of stones. It seems like part of the roughness is coming from the hammer sliding on the bolt. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.The more I get to know this gun the more I love it
    In the Bush

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    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    You have a great gun. Send it to a pro unless you really know what you are doing. I sent my stainless GG to Steves Gunz and he made it slick as butter. A whole different gun afterwards. Added the XS Sight Systems ghost ring sight, did the spray on truck bed liner to the stock. And loving it man. Check out the forum, Marlin Owners, and go to the "big bore" forum there. Tons of ideas and pictures to give you something to chew on. Steve did a great job on the action. His site is below.

    http://www.stevesgunz.com/
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

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    Member pinehavensredrocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akjaq View Post
    Would like to know how to slick the action up a bit on my guide gun 1895gs. Its brand new and never been shot and is a little stiff So does anybody know where are all the spots are that need smoothing? Ive got a dremel tool with plenty of stones. It seems like part of the roughness is coming from the hammer sliding on the bolt. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.The more I get to know this gun the more I love it
    the marlin guide gun is a nice little rifle, and easy to improve. i wouldn't use a dremmel tool as that will remove serious metal.......try this.

    remove your bolt (open action half way, then take the connector screw from the lever, pull it from the bottom and pull out the bolt. catch the ejector as the bolt comes to the rear).

    get a jar of JB paste (available in most gunshops, snipers use it for bore cleaning) spread it liberally on the shaft of the bolt. reinsert the bolt and lever and work the action. this takes a little time so do it while watching your favorite t.v. program. after working for about 15min, remove and repaste, then start again.

    in 20min to half hour your action will be hugely improved. remove bolt and clean it and the reciever of all the paste. this is easy and take only a few minutes.

    lube your bolt lightly ( i use fp10) and reassemble, putting the ejector back as you slide the bolt halfway in. reconnect the lever and work the action. it will be great!

    one more tip is to slightly back out the loading gate screw. it this improves the action think about removing that screw and dressing it down a little. don't get too peppy with the dremmel, as you can''t put metal back!

    this work in the shop will set you back $75.-$100. and you can do it for free!

    my finished rifles include a "wild west guns" bear proof ejector, and 2# trigger. good luck and...
    happy trails.
    jh

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    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    As previously mentioned, the Marlin owners forums are the preeminent source of all things Marlin. There you will find detailed instructions for disassembly, modifications, tuning etc. including pictures and diagrams. I cannot overstate the value of their web site for a Marlin owner.

    The Marlin lever actions are extremely simple to maintain and modify with little in the way of special tooling required. If you consider yourself “handy” and can follow simply instructions, I would recommend that you do all the work yourself. Paying a gunsmith to “slick up” a guide gun is analogous to paying the Ferrari dealer $1000 to change the oil in your Ford truck. The end result will be the same…… but one will be far more expensive. That said, if you are not comfortable with this sort of thing, or are not really very “mechanically inclined” then by all means, take it to a smith to get the work done. Andy Hawk is the best lever gun guy I know in town, but really any of the locals can get the job done for you.
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

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    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    One more thing to add……. There are many folks out there that are more than skilled enough to do their own Marlin work, but simply lack the time in which to do it. Again, if you fall into that category, you are better off sending it to a smith, rather than risk mistakes because you are pressed for time. What I am getting at here, is that I did not intend to imply that someone who takes their Marlin in for tune up work is unskilled or anything. Some folks just don’t have the time, space or inclination.
    “You’ve gotten soft. You’re like one of those police dogs who’s released in to the wild and gets eaten by a deer or something.” Bill McNeal of News Radio

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    Member Chisana's Avatar
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    Do not ruin your rifle by dremeling it. If you want custom work done on your guide gun I would send it to Jim Brockman. His custom lever gun and practical rifle work is very well thought of and sought after.

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    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Good suggestion above. I would not send it to Brockmans just for an action job though. Long turn around as he is very well known.

    Same goes for Clements Custom Guns. Very well known and does great work. But he had a six month turn around time last time I talked with him. Awesome work though. Website below.

    http://www.clementscustomguns.com/rifleservices.html


    If you want a full length mag tube, new sights, action job, glass bed, mercury recoil reducer, limb saver pad, and all that, send it to Jim or Clements. Looking at $400 +/- for this kind of work, but you will have one slick gun. Sending mine to Clements for this treatment soon. Even though he has a wait list, he does not ask you to mail the gun until a few weeks prior to that time.

    If you just want an action job, trust me, send it to Steve (my first post). Much faster turn around time and he does a fantastic job. Polishes everything and changes all springs. Day and night difference to what the gun felt like when I bought it. This guy completely transformed my gun for about $120.
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

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    Default Thanks

    Thanks for the advise....much appreciated
    In the Bush

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    Default Does this work for bolt action?

    Hey, I just bought a new ruger hawkeye stainless in 338 and the action isn't as bad as some I've felt but a bit rough. Also the three position safety is real tough to flick forward. Just wondering if the idea of JB past will work for the bolt action?

    Any ideas for slicking up the safety?

    Thanks

    Abe

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    Good suggestion above. I would not send it to Brockmans just for an action job though. Long turn around as he is very well known.
    We just had a brockman rifle in here for some work (trigger etc). I like his laminate stocks, nice slim forend

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    Member pinehavensredrocket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by abe henderson View Post
    Hey, I just bought a new ruger hawkeye stainless in 338 and the action isn't as bad as some I've felt but a bit rough. Also the three position safety is real tough to flick forward. Just wondering if the idea of JB past will work for the bolt action?

    Any ideas for slicking up the safety?

    Thanks

    Abe
    hi abe; i don't want to hijack this thread....but the jb paste works great on the lugs and boltrace of your ruger. it is safe for your rifle and will make it cycle like a custom gun! the safety will also improve but will require disassembly. good luck.
    happy trails.
    jh

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