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Thread: RE: Bullet-Proof Canoe Coating; unfair compare

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Fairbanks, AK

    Default RE: Bullet-Proof Canoe Coating; unfair compare

    In a different thread(s), different coatings for protecting a canoe were discussed, so I did a very unfair comparison of 3 kinds. This may only raise more questions that it answers, but FYI, here ya go. PROCEDURE: I took a sample of Durabak, RhinoHide's HardLine, and the stuff Auto Trim in Frb sprays on p/u beds, out to my garage. It is probably 10 to 15 degrees in there, max. I put the samples on my welding table, which has a 2" thick steel top, and whacked the samples w/ a 2 pound steel hammer. I'd characterize that as pretty abusive impact w/ minimal deflection; more of a crush test than impact. I also dragged a nail-claw/nail-pry bar across each, pushing down all I could, trying to tear them, and then cut them w/ a razor blade knife. The Durabak was on an thin aluminum sheet, and was about 1/64", maybe 1/32", thick. The Auto Trim stuff was ripped off of a p/u bed, so no backing, and was about 1/16" thick. (If you are missing a piece, rejoice; it went to scientific research.) The HardLine was about 1/8" thick, also w/ no backing. OBSERVATIONS: All are pretty tough, none could be scratched very easily w/ the nail claw, and all cut fairly easily w/ a razor knife. In the pics, the Dura is red, the Auto Trim product is the odd shaped, black patch, and the Rhino stuff is the flat, black patch. All had to be whacked several times, perhaps about as hard as you swing to drive in 16 penny nails, before much happened. The Rhino shattered the easiest under the hammer. The Auto Trim stuff tore apart w/out shattering, and the Dura was the most flexible before failure. The Dura stretched quite a bit before it tore. It was easy to remove the AT stuff from the p/u, using the nail-claw/pry bar, and, once off the truck, I could tear it w/ my bare hands. As the gent at AT told me, if you get under the edge you can peel the whole layer off. (He also told me the "water based" stuff can NOT be removed, so if someone wants to replace it w/ their product, they won't remove it; way too much work.) Of note, Rhino makes other products, but this is the one they recommended I try on a canoe. RECOMMENDATIONS: I recommend someone buy 3 identical canoes, apply one product to each, and run them on the same rivers, same speed, weights, etc. I just did not see any huge differences w/ this crude bit of abusive "research". Someone w/ more money than me carry this farther..... PRICES: Pretty similar. Dura is approx $320/2-gallons, shipped to Seattle, then $160/2-gal shipped to Frb. That is a min rate, and 40 gals would cost the same. A gal covers 50 sqr ft and can be applied/repaired by you. You can paint it in multiple layers, up to "inches" thick. Rhino can be sprayed on the bottom of a Hud Bay canoe (in Anch) for about $500. AT charges about $10-12/sf. Rhino and AT stuff need factory application/repair. CONCLUSION: Pick your poison. All may have pluses and minuses for your need. I'd sure like to get Bill Gates interested in this stuff....
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  2. #2
    Moderator Alaskacanoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006

    Default winter frustration gone

    You probably feel better getting the beat down on the materials.. all in the name of Science

    Great job.. great report..
    sounds like all of the products took a fair amount of abuse..

    When you come to a fork in the trail, take it!

    Rentals for Canoes, Kayaks, Rafts, boats serving the Kenai canoe trail system and the Kenai river for over 15 years.


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