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Thread: 26' trailer with 1/2 ton

  1. #1
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Default 26' trailer with 1/2 ton

    Anyone have good luck dragging a 24+ foot v-nose enclosed trailer with 4 sleds in it behind a 1/2 ton? I have a F150 and I can afford a trailer or a duramax....not both!

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    Member jakec5253's Avatar
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    Default engine

    Does your ford have the 5.4 or the smaller V-8? How much does the trailer weigh empty? I think it might be doable on flat roads, but I think it might be a little too much weight for the half ton pickup.

    Jake
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  3. #3

    Default Use good sense

    Your pickup is probably rated to tow about 8000# (look in your manual under towing or trailering) most 4 place snowmachine trailers are rated at 7000#GVW so towing it is not a problem but two things you should get are:
    1) electric trailer brake acuator. you can get a quality one for about $125, they are very easy to install or Sixrobblees or Trailercraft can do it for you. I would not pull a trailer that big in the winter without the brakes operating.
    2) load leveling hitch. you will feel less trailer sway and up and down movement, its not required but you won't regret having it and once towing with one will want one on any large trailer you tow.

    Now go have fun.
    19' Lowe Roughneck
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  4. #4

    Default Truck size vs engine

    The engine size is not nearly as important as being able to control/stop the trailer. Getting it going is one thing, but being able to safely stop it when/if needed is by far the most important. This is where most people fall short. These days, just about anything has the power to get something up to speed. It's when they hit the brakes that all hell breaks loose (pun intended???). A small (light) truck and heavy trailer is a recipe for serious problems.

    As mentioned above, check the towing capacity for the truck and make sure to have the proper hitch setup and class of hitch for what you are towing. The trailer brake controls are an amazing help. When you start to feel things moving a little more than you like, you can ease down on the trailer separate from the truck and it helps to line everything out and get it settled down.

  5. #5

    Default

    In addition to all of the above recommendations you can also take your truck to alaska spring and add a leaf in the rear to help with tongue weight. We have towed our enclosed with a half ton with out problems using this help, in fact we routinely have 5 sleds in the trailer. It is not very expensive and only takes a few hours as they do it all the time.

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    Default

    I've towed about 8500lbs gross trailer wt with my Titan, and it was fine but I wouldn't feel comfortable going any higher. I think the stated cap is around 1000#more than that (9500).

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    Member ARGONUT's Avatar
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    Default

    air bag the back suspension for 125 bucks or so makes the towing weight nominal just have to think about getting the thing going with the weight expecially up hills

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    Member moose-head's Avatar
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    Default

    I remember looking at something on my '92 F-150 and it said that the breaks on those were not as good as other models. I have the 302 too and it HATES towing anything.

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    Default six roblees

    I highly recommend six roblees on commercial st. They totally set me up. All the above is true. I DO own a duramax, and the single best thing I did was add a break controler. My 4 position trailer is all steel with twin 5000lb axels and this thing is HEAVY empty. that break controller is the best. They installed it for me for about $70 bucks I think. They tested my trailer, fixed the breakes on the trailer, repacked the bearings, made the lights LEGAL. I have not had a single issue with this trailer for the 4 years I have owned it after them working on it. I highly recommend you check them out.

    Another issue: your tranny!!! Auto or manual? If it's auto, change the fluid every 40k miles minumum. you got a tranny cooler? if not think about it!!

    Now that you got it set up right, drive it like ya stole it!

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    Member Phish Finder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porterwagner View Post
    I've towed about 8500lbs gross trailer wt with my Titan, and it was fine but I wouldn't feel comfortable going any higher. I think the stated cap is around 1000#more than that (9500).
    You are talking about a Mighty Titan, not a measly little F-150
    ><((((>.`..`.. ><((((>`..`.><((((>

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phish Finder View Post
    You are talking about a Mighty Titan, not a measly little F-150
    Those are fighting words for some folks! But it is a 1/2ton anyway. It's served me well, but who couldn't use a couple extra mpgs these days! I avoid driving it!

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    Meant to also add, the brake controller is key, mine is a good one with proportional braking. Tongue load and overall weight distribution in/on trailer are vital for proper high speed handling characteristics. I forget the ratio, but I think a rule of thumb is to have slightly more weight ahead of the trailers axle center and less toward the back- otherwise you can get bad sway.

  13. #13
    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info everyone. I have an 06 f150 Super Crew FX4 5.4 liter with the longer bed option (6.5') and the towing package. It currently only has 35K miles on it. I almost lost it last year dragging a small trailer with 2 sleds driving the parks last year. We were on our way back from hunting the REX trl and decided that we would try and make it home early to surpirse the ladies. The roads were ok and I poured on the petrol. There is a good long stretch of highway between Healey and Denali that is purty flat. It ends in a rather sharp turn to the left with a guardrail and a rather unplesant drop off. I went to put the brakes on and not much happened! If you have seen those drift car shows on speed channel, I don't want to brag but I would have won! I ended up taking the inside lane praying that no one was comming the other way and I literally drifted my truck AND trailer around the corner! We were 90* accross the road. Somehow as I exited the corner I managed to straighten the whole mess out, and with out even a jerk or a sway we lined up back in our lane like nothing had happened. My cousin who was on the phone with his brother had been extremely quiet durring this whole event. No yelling or anything, in fact his brother was completely unaware that he almost heard us die. He simply looked over at me and said very casually "nice recovery" . That is the last time I will try and make some silly deadline, it was out of character to begin with, and there is no hurry in my driving, if I need to get somewhere at a particular time I leave earlier.

    That experiance was with a small aluminum 2 place and will never haul anything larger than that without electric trailer brakes! I am glad to hear that others are having good luck dragging them. BTW my truck has a 9200lb tow rating. I have no doubt that it would easily do that on generally flat land. I am not so sure about driving the Glen north of palmer. Perhaps I need to consider a power programmer for it.

    I know that I could drag a standard 4 place aluminum drive on/off trailer and then toss a short track for one of the kids in the bed. The draw of the enclosed trailer is that it would serve as a shelter when we were out riding for the weekend.

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    Default Test Tow?

    I would find one of these forum members that will let you hook up to their trailer, loaded and give it a try. Only reason I say this, before you buy, I had a 3/4 T gasser before I bought the Dmax and towed a 28' 4 place with both trucks. The gmc 350 did it ok, but the Dmax is soooo much better. Not to mention 4500# trailer+2500# in sleds and gear will just put so much more wear and tear on the 1/2 ton.

  15. #15
    Member 2dawgs's Avatar
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    My ridin buddy tows a 24' feather light with a 1/2 ton chebby and load leveler hitch with no problems, been doin it for years. Just set your rig up correctly and you'll have no problems. Oh ya studded tires work great in snow and ice.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dawgs View Post
    My ridin buddy tows a 24' feather light with a 1/2 ton chebby and load leveler hitch with no problems, been doin it for years. Just set your rig up correctly and you'll have no problems. Oh ya studded tires work great in snow and ice.
    Great point here I will have to start looking for a set of 17" factory take off wheels to get set up with studs. I have factory 20's and the cost of tires is rediculous! Even the cost of swapping them is more at that size.

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    Contrary to popular opinion and common practice, studded tires have been shown to have less traction on glare ice than non-studded tires specifically rated for snow and ice. I don't have a link handy, but TireRack.com has actual video of traction on glare ice between various types of tire (they used a hockey ice rink with cones set-up to run the tests) It was surprising to me to see the studded tires actually skate around the turns while the non-studded tires (designed for ice and snow) made the turns without slipping. I think it is safe to say the studded tires are an upgrade over summer tires (or possibly most all-season), but I found the price of studded tires was only marginally less than non-studded ice and snow tires. Note, I have the stock tires on my trailer (nothing special), if you take things slow and careful, and understand and feel the momentum of your rig underway- I don't think you would need either.

  18. #18
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Default

    Last year I towed an EMPTY 29' enclosed trailer with my 1/2T '04 Suburban and it was.....uncomfortable. No problem with power, but it was definitely tongue heavy for my light suspension and since I don't have a brake controller, it was sketchy getting the land train stopped. Luckily my F350 powerstroke (with brake controller) handled the rig full MUCH better.

    Your 1/2T will pull it, but it isn't ideal by any means.
    AKmud
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  19. #19
    Member tjm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porterwagner View Post
    Contrary to popular opinion and common practice, studded tires have been shown to have less traction on glare ice than non-studded tires specifically rated for snow and ice.
    are you talking about studded trailer tires or tires on the truck?...
    ------------------------------------------------
    pull my finger....

  20. #20

    Default Tongue weight??

    Meant to also add, the brake controller is key, mine is a good one with proportional braking. Tongue load and overall weight distribution in/on trailer are vital for proper high speed handling characteristics. I forget the ratio, but I think a rule of thumb is to have slightly more weight ahead of the trailers axle center and less toward the back- otherwise you can get bad sway.
    A good rule is keep it around 10% of GVW your pulling, If the trailer is fully loaded and weighs 7000# than your tounge weight should be about 700# that one item alone will eliminate most sway. Be carefull to not exceed the rating of your hitch, ballmount or ball.

    BTW my truck has a 9200lb tow rating. I have no doubt that it would easily do that on generally flat land. I am not so sure about driving the Glen north of palmer. Perhaps I need to consider a power programmer for it.
    I hook trailers to peoples trucks nearly every day and if they are somewhat inexperienced I always tell them to make sure they have good control and are not going to fast before they reach the top of a hill or the start of a corner, once you are going down a hill or around a corner it is to late to start making corrections. Your truck will pull the hills with very little problem, it will even appreciate all the fresh new gas it's getting since you will be replacing it often, slowing your rig down is where you will need to be on the ball.
    19' Lowe Roughneck
    90/65 Honda 4 stroke
    Outboard Jet

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