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Thread: Gun Boot "SHORTENED" 7 1/2" Now need EPOXY..???

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    Default Gun Boot "SHORTENED" 7 1/2" Now need EPOXY..???

    I shortened the Gun Boot Cover 7 1/2" and it turned out perfect. The Butt of the cover is slightly larger than the mid-point and as such will slide over the front part of the boot cover.

    Now I need the perfect epoxy/adhesive/glue to bond them. There is 7 1/2" of surface area, so there is lots of bonding area.

    Please recommend adhesive....... for plastic.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Go to a plumbing department at Lowes, Home Depot or whatever and get the stick epoxy putty. I love the stuff and use it for all kinds of things. It comes in a stick about 1" round and 8" long, you cut off what you need and kneed it in your hands then apply it. Wash hands ASAP and don't do a 2nd batch without washing hands as it will stick to you then. They run TV adds with it now and sell it for double what the store sells it for, great stuff!

    I fixed a cracked transfer case with it 4 years ago and it is still holding better than the aluminum did.

    Andy

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    Does it come in Black....?

    And other suggestions.....

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    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Are you talking about the Kolpin type gunboot?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeak View Post
    I shortened the Gun Boot Cover 7 1/2" and it turned out perfect. The Butt of the cover is slightly larger than the mid-point and as such will slide over the front part of the boot cover.

    Now I need the perfect epoxy/adhesive/glue to bond them. There is 7 1/2" of surface area, so there is lots of bonding area.

    Please recommend adhesive....... for plastic.
    There has been many threads devoted to bonding/mending the plastic found in ATV fenders and canoes, which I think is the same as in Kolpins. The general consensus has been that nothing really bonds that type of plastic. People have had mixed results with a combination of sewing and plastic bumper repair adhesive such as found at NAPA.

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    Sponsor ADfields's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeak View Post
    Does it come in Black....?
    I have only found dark and light gray but a magic marker will fix that.
    Takes about half hour total time before you can cut, file, machine, or whatever. It's very strong, stiff, and bonds plastic well. I don't know if the stiff part will be what you want but if stiff works for it this stuff is great.

    Andy

  6. #6

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    My gun boot split on top where the retaining pin goes through. I used the stick epoxy putty on that. It worked for a little while but eventually split. Back in the days when I had a 4 wheeler and was always cracking fenders, I mended them with hot glue sticks sold by the ATV dealers. The problem was, the fender plastic never got hot enough to bond to the glue stick. I figured out a way to fix this; I'd take a propane torch with a soldering tip on it. I'd run that hot tip up the seam of the crack melting the two edges and back filling with hot glue gun. I never had a "welded" seam rebreak. You might want to try that. And yes, I recall the ATV shops sell black plastic glue sticks. Good luck !! Let us know how that works for you.

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    Moderator hunt_ak's Avatar
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    Pics!!!!!!

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    Default black ABS Cement

    You might try some on the piece you cut off. It is pretty good at melting most plastics. Depending on if you need strength too you might add some fiberglass cloth or matt.

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    Got in on this late, but if you haven't already, try googling up Scotch-Weld 8005DP. It's supposed to bond every plastic, even polyethylene which is notoriously difficult.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HarryHyde View Post
    Got in on this late, but if you haven't already, try googling up Scotch-Weld 8005DP. It's supposed to bond every plastic, even polyethylene which is notoriously difficult.
    I have been waiting to do it right. My problem is I only come to town every 4 months. I have learned that the Automotive Paint Store on the old Seward Hwy. just south of Tudor, will test on the scrap pieces I have with different epoxies, they are Scotch Epoxy factory Representatives...

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Lets see if the post makes it through this time.

    I highly recomend welding plastic, get a kit from these guys http://www.urethanesupply.com/index.php

    I patched a cross linked polyethelene tank which technically can't be welded. But their tech folks told me how to go about patching it and it's held fine.

    I've patched up garbage cans and other plastic stuff.

  12. #12

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    I called the Gun Boot Co. and they are made out of Polypropylene. (sp)

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    Default Plastic Welding

    If you wish to go the route of plastic welding, you can buy the kit from the above link; but you already have just about everything you need if you have a propane torch or a 80W soldering iron.

    With an 80W soldering Iron, place a carriage bolt where the tip was and melt away, use the same type of plastic as you started with to provide the bond. I do this on canoes all the time and it has worked flawlessly.

    With a propane torch, get a 4" piece of 3/8" tubing, a 3/8 pipe to 1/4" flared fitting, small hose clamp (1/2" diameter clamping range) and 4" of 1/4" brake line from any auto supplier. Take the 3/8" pipe and grind or cut a notch on each side (opposite each other) for a length of 2-1/2" to 3", then assemble the brake line to the steel pipe (after cooling). Place notched end over the torch tip (before lighting) and clamp into place.

    Weld away! Both work as well as commercially available units and can be made for much less.

    I'll copy this information into a new forum thread as well for other do-it-yourself type people.

    HTH

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    Member tyrex13's Avatar
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    I can't remember if it's called E2000 or E3000, but it is an industrial adhesive that comes in black. Sorry I can't remember more. I'll look in my tool box if I think about it next time.

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    Well, if you still haven't fixed your gun boot, here's a thread on how to make your own plastic welding thingamajig.

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