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Thread: Large DA Rimfire?

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    Default Large DA Rimfire?

    I have a 454 Ruger SRH I carry out in the woods. I've put a few hundred rounds of .45 and .454 rounds through it for practice, but have started thinking that cheap DA shooting with a .22 might be a good way to augment my skills (okay, maybe the bottom line is that I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another gun) What is the largest DA rimfire revolver out there? Thanks....Louis

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    Default Full-size DA Rimfire?

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    I have a 454 Ruger SRH I carry out in the woods. I've put a few hundred rounds of .45 and .454 rounds through it for practice, but have started thinking that cheap DA shooting with a .22 might be a good way to augment my skills (okay, maybe the bottom line is that I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another gun) What is the largest DA rimfire revolver out there? Thanks....Louis
    Offhand (no pun intended) the first thing that comes to mind is the K-Frame S&W (now discontinued) that was chambered for the 22 Jet. There were inserts available that would allow chambering and firing 22 LR.

    Lost Sheep

    I will search through the dusty archives of my mind for another, perhaps less obscure example.

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    The Colt Diamondback was a bigger size 22lr but they have got spendy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    I have a 454 Ruger SRH I carry out in the woods. I've put a few hundred rounds of .45 and .454 rounds through it for practice, but have started thinking that cheap DA shooting with a .22 might be a good way to augment my skills (okay, maybe the bottom line is that I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another gun) What is the largest DA rimfire revolver out there? Thanks....Louis
    When I was shooting competitively I used a K-22 lots for DA practice, mostly because it was on the same frame as my M-19's and similar to my later my M-686's. The big deal was the same action with similar trigger feel.

    Better yet for general DA practice was a little 4" J-frame 22 Kit Gun. That sucker didn't feel the same as the bigger gun, but due to the smaller frame, short barrel and light weight it forced you to really concentrate on technique to get consistent DA accuracy. I did an action job and a spring kit to smooth it up, but even that wasn't enough to make it "easy" to shoot DA.

    I doubt you'll find anything that comes really close to your SRH in size and weight, so "matching" the feel may be out. I let my K-22 go (FOOL!) a few years back, mostly because the friend really wanted it and I wasn't using it much. It was idle because I used the kit gun so much. It's a really handy and accurate field gun SA or DA, plus it tunes up my DA shooting in one big hurry.

    Be forewarned though, that a 4" J-frame will teach you more about straight trigger pulls and followthrough than you ever wanted to know, probably making you just a little bit nuts in the process. Even now, 20 years later, my kit gun can really frustrate me on an off day. But once I get back on top of it, DA shooting with my bigger DAs is no prob. That includes both my M629's and 44RH's.

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    Sorry it took me a while to get back, thanks, folks, for the input. I'll see how the tax return works out and maybe hit the UAF gunshow this spring. Does anyone remember when that's happening? Thanks....Louis

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    the S&W 617 is a 10 shot double action revolver that has a little weight to it.

    I have a similar thought on picking up a practice revolver for my 329 and the S&W 63 is of similar length and weight.

    -hiker
    "Happiness is a warm gun - bang bang, shoot shoot!"
    -Lennon/McCartney

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    Smile COLT Trooper or S&W 617 in .22LR

    Colt Trooper .22 is on a .41 to .357 Magnum frame depending on version. The gun was designed with training in mind scaled for the duty-carry larger caliber police revolvers of the day. Still have my 6' nickel-plated target model... thinking I'll likely hold on to 'er, but if sold would only ever go to the right buyer. They are very nice hand-fitted revolvers, spendy tho' and getting hard to find!

    My other recommendation would be the S&W 617 K-Frame 6" w/ 6 shot cylinder . Also spendy... but a nice revolver. (not suggesting the 10 shot tho'!)

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    Default For practice

    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    I have a 454 Ruger SRH I carry out in the woods. I've put a few hundred rounds of .45 and .454 rounds through it for practice, but have started thinking that cheap DA shooting with a .22 might be a good way to augment my skills (okay, maybe the bottom line is that I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another gun) What is the largest DA rimfire revolver out there? Thanks....Louis
    A little off the thread's name, but directly to the point of the original post's referenct to practice:

    1) Speer plastic bullets/cartridge cases, powerd by primers and reusable. Or primer-powered wax bullets (re-meltable) or bullets cast in hot glue (reusable)

    2 Daisy (yes, the air-gun people) made a laser target that would react when hit with a laser beam from a cartridge-sized laser made for 38/357 (and, I would guess larger cartridges, so 45 Colt/454 Casull would be available, and maybe 9mm as well)

    They had no provision for lining up within the barrel, but if the chambers within the cylinder were parallel with the barrel (and each other) accuracy should be adequate, and you are using your actual carry gun.

    Lost Sheep

    Yeah, I used to own a K-22. It did make a good companion piece to the K-19 or model 15. I now have a Dan Wesson 22 to match my Dan Wesson .357. The 22 is blued and gorgeous. The .357 is black teflon (after a mishap involving a cross-country trip and a hail/rainstorm).

    The Ruger 22/45 to match my 1911s is something I have wanted for a while, but buying a bunch of new magazines different from my Mark II collection has kept putting me off that purchase.

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    Smile Dan Wesson .22

    Yep --- those are nice target revolvers... spendy for sure and getting harder to find as well.

    I always thought Ruger should have made a GP100 frame in a .22 LR!

    Maybe w/ ammo going up we'll see several of these fine guns making some sort of come back.

  10. #10

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    Sportsman guide sells 22LR chamber inserts for 45 Colt revolvers.
    Not sure how well they work...Ace Dube (Anchorage) has all kinds of chamber convertors, he could set you up as well...

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    If you're going for used guns, might include the Dan Wesson 22. Same frame as the .357 with smaller holes, so weighs more. Get a heavy barrel to add even more weight and you can get an 8" barrel.

    As a side note: I never felt mine was overly accurate...might just be me!

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    Default Sorry Leonard

    Quote Originally Posted by LeonardC View Post
    If you're going for used guns, might include the Dan Wesson 22. Same frame as the .357 with smaller holes, so weighs more. Get a heavy barrel to add even more weight and you can get an 8" barrel.

    As a side note: I never felt mine was overly accurate...might just be me!
    I am sorry to hear you are not happy with your DW. I find my 6" 22 to be the most accurate of all my handguns (except my 10" bull barrel Mark II)

    Excellent trigger pull. Fast lock time. Adjustable overtravel screw doesn't hurt, either. I won a turkey (first prize) the first time I ever competed in a competitive shoot. I was very pleased with myself and the gun. My .357 is also very accurate.

    How do you regulate the torque you apply to the barrel nut? That can make a big difference. I also had a timing issue on my 357) that DW took care of right away under warranty. How's the timing on your revolver?

    I really do expect that if everything is properly adjusted you will find the DW to be as accurate as any revolver made.

    Lost Sheep

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    Lost Sheep: I bought the 4" VH .22 I had a .357 with the 6" and bought barrels so I could exchange between the two. A 8" set up was included latter. The .357 was very accurate. I bought it used and shot the snot out of it; to the point I had to send it in to the factory for a rebuild...under warrenty, what service! The .22 never seemed remotely as accurate and I let it slide to be back of the safe.

    Your questions caused me to take a closer look at it and compare it to the .357. The cylinder on the .22 "wiggles" much more than the .357. I might try to find a bolt for it and try to tighten up that play and see what happens.

    I tighten the barrel nut up snug...plus. I don't remember any special instructions from the factory and my tool is set up to only do it my hand. Did you modify your tool or make one so you can set up an exact torque?

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    Default I have these calibrated fingers

    Quote Originally Posted by LeonardC View Post
    Lost Sheep: I bought the 4" VH .22 I had a .357 with the 6" and bought barrels so I could exchange between the two. A 8" set up was included latter. The .357 was very accurate. I bought it used and shot the snot out of it; to the point I had to send it in to the factory for a rebuild...under warrenty, what service! The .22 never seemed remotely as accurate and I let it slide to be back of the safe.

    Your questions caused me to take a closer look at it and compare it to the .357. The cylinder on the .22 "wiggles" much more than the .357. I might try to find a bolt for it and try to tighten up that play and see what happens.

    I tighten the barrel nut up snug...plus. I don't remember any special instructions from the factory and my tool is set up to only do it my hand. Did you modify your tool or make one so you can set up an exact torque?
    Not any particular hardware modification. I put the feeler gauge between the barrel and the cylinder and screw the barrel in until it bottoms out firmly. There is no play at this point, so torquing is not an issue. Just bottom out and make sure the feeler gauge cam move (with drag) in and out. Then, with my calibrated fingers I hold the barrel nut wrench the same way every time in my fingertips and apply the same torque by feel.

    I did try torquing more than normal and found my point of impact did change (erraticallly) with more torque. Had I not found consistency by "finger feel", I would have gotten or manufactured a torque wrench of appropriate strength before I gave up.

    I am mildly surprised that your cylinder play might be the cause of your inaccuracy problems (unless it is enough to cause shaving the bullets between the cylinder throat and the forcing cone). Can you detect any lead shaving evidence? If so, definitiely send if back to the factory or a good gunsmith. Very real possibility, though the torque factor is my first suspicion.

    Good luck, and please let me know what you find.

    Lost Sheep

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    Well...now that we've completely hijacked the thread...I'll give the torque idea some effort. Cheapest fix. I should get off my butt and get out to the range more. Maybe it's the nut in back, not in front! I'll give the torque idea some more thought. Should be some way to make a connection to a 3/8 drive wrench on one end and a circle with two tits on the other. Let's see...if I fire up the table saw and make a few passes this way...

    The factory that made this one is long out of business. During one of the changes they made it clear the new company wasn't responsable for the prior company(s). CZ bought the name, but I think they are only making the autos, not the revolvers. Do you know if they work on the wheel guns at all?

  16. #16

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    [quote=hiker;433539]the S&W 617 is a 10 shot double action revolver that has a little weight to it.

    I have the 617, and really like it. It is a "K" frame.

    The weight is less than the larger "L" and "N" frame S&W revolvers, but when I use similar grips the feel is pretty close to the larger handguns.

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