Need help with neck sizer bushing.
I am just getting into reloading, and am looking at Hornady's Match 308 die. What I need to know is what neck sizing bushing to get.
They have .332, .334, .336, .338 I will be loading 168 SMK's into Winchester Brass. I have a whole bunch of Remington Premier that used Win. Brass.
Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
P.S. I shoot a Savage 10FP if that matters at all.
I'm sure someone with more experience will chime before the days end.
Originally Posted by SavageStag
I'm thinking you need to measure your fired brass and pick a bushing based on that measurement. You will want a bushing that closes the neck back down only a couple thousands rather than back to SAAMI Specs.
The whole idea behind those bushing options is to minimize working your brass and tailoring your brass to your chamber. If all else fails call Hornady and get their recommendations on picking the bushing.
loaded, not fired
If Hornady measures theirs the same way Redding does, you need to measure the outside neck diameter of a LOADED round, not the fired brass, with a micrometer. If you don't have one loaded take your micrometer to SW and measure the neck diameter of a couple of bullets that use Winchester brass.
Subtract .002" from your measurement and order that size bushing. This gives you about the right amount of neck tension. .001" under also works, it will just give you less neck tension on the bullet, maybe too little for bullets that will be carried around in a pack or magazine while hunting.
If you outside neck turn or switch to a different brand of brass, you might have to get a different size bushing. I usually like to get several different bushing to play with anyway. I started out with the more expensive Titanium Dioxide coated bushing from Redding, but since I can order almost two steel ones for the price of one TiO2 bushing, I just go with steel now. I polish the inside a bit, and I can't tell the difference.
You want .002"-.003" neck tension for most loads. So a safe bet is to measure a loaded round using your brass and subtract .003"-.004" to allow for spring back. If you want to get really fancy you can using a tubing mic to measure the wall thickness of your brass and go from there, but that is really only needed if you are going to neck turn.