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Thread: parkerizing finish

  1. #1
    kenaikid
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    Default parkerizing finish

    Good evening all,I've got an old marlin 45-70 thats seen better days.Its been the boat gun for almost 35 years and i thought about gettin her back up to snuff.Its pretty well pitted on the outside the wood is shot but has a good bore.I thought about tryin to parkerize it myself.Anyone ever try this ,and howd it turn out.who sells this product in state.
    KK.

  2. #2
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    Default Home Park'in

    I don't know of anyone in the state that sells parkerizing solution, but you can buy it from Brownells (and others). You'll need to decide if you want a black or grey finish so you can buy the correct solution. Zinc will get you grey. You'll also need a stainless steel container long enough to hold your gun and something to heat the solution.

    Before I decided to buy, I had good luck with home made zinc parkerizing solution, using cement cleaner and pennies. I ground off a bit of copper, exposing the zinc core of the penny and let them soak in the cement cleaner for a couple of days (until the zinc was gone) then dropped in some degreased steel wool. I'll see if I can find the details in my notes. The trick is to figure out what the correct dilution is for your solution once done. It's a pain and takes a lot of time, so I just buy parkerizing solution now.

  3. #3
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    Default Parkerizing at home

    I've done it at home in the past using commercial solutions. I even had a stainless steel tanks made up for rifles. It is much easier than hot blueing as the temperatures are lower and the solution is much less hazadous. The oddity of the solutions I used was that after they were used and cooled off you couldn't use them again. I never did look into the chemistry.

    How did you get the solution shipped up? Do you have to pay the hazmat fee or ??

    If somebody can come up with the chemcials I have a tank and heat source. We would also need a simple sand blaster to prepare the surface but that shouldn't be an issue. I guess you really don't need to sand or dust blast but it gives a nicer more uniform appearance.

    After parkerizing the surface can be pained with a tough epoxy paint; the resulting finish is about as good as you can get for rust protection and abrasive resistance.


    Quote Originally Posted by KelsonAK View Post
    I don't know of anyone in the state that sells parkerizing solution, but you can buy it from Brownells (and others). You'll need to decide if you want a black or grey finish so you can buy the correct solution. Zinc will get you grey. You'll also need a stainless steel container long enough to hold your gun and something to heat the solution.

    Before I decided to buy, I had good luck with home made zinc parkerizing solution, using cement cleaner and pennies. I ground off a bit of copper, exposing the zinc core of the penny and let them soak in the cement cleaner for a couple of days (until the zinc was gone) then dropped in some degreased steel wool. I'll see if I can find the details in my notes. The trick is to figure out what the correct dilution is for your solution once done. It's a pain and takes a lot of time, so I just buy parkerizing solution now.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

  4. #4
    kenaikid
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    Default

    Wow ,that homemade brew sounds pretty wild, Howed you aquire that recepy.I'd like to here more.That old marlin would make a good guinia pig,A guy cant really hurt it anymore than it alredy is.I suppose the barrel needs to be plug off.What about the insides of receiver?As far as buying the solution it sounds like its pretty much an out of state item.Shipping might be quite high with bein hazzardous an all.Well thanx for the feed back and take care
    K.K

  5. #5
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    Default Parkerizing

    Parkerizing operates at much lower tempratures than hot blueing so plugging the barrel is no problem and is commonly done. The inside of the action and working parts are commonly parkerized; the finish holds lubrication well and does not seem to have any negative effects. Some piston rings in cars are or were orginally parkerized as it seemed to help the break-in and created less wear.


    Quote Originally Posted by kenaikid View Post
    Wow ,that homemade brew sounds pretty wild, Howed you aquire that recepy.I'd like to here more.That old marlin would make a good guinia pig,A guy cant really hurt it anymore than it alredy is.I suppose the barrel needs to be plug off.What about the insides of receiver?As far as buying the solution it sounds like its pretty much an out of state item.Shipping might be quite high with bein hazzardous an all.Well thanx for the feed back and take care
    K.K
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

  6. #6
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    Default

    I haven't been able to locate my notes on this one. Bummer. So, from memmory:

    I used a phosphoric acid based concrete cleaner from Home Depot. If you check the MSDS on the product it will give you additional information on what is in it. Don't use a muratic acid based product - won't work for this but it does work on concrete. I think there were two or three different brands available at the time - I looked at the MSDS to get the one with least additional 'stuff' in it.
    If memory serves I used about $1 of pennies in a half gallon of the cement cleaner. You need to break the copper 'jacket' around the zinc core of the penny. User pennies made after 82- they have the zinc core. I used an old grinder wheel to remove some copper, exposing the zinc. I left it in the solution for a week (I put them in on a sunday, took them out the following saturday.) Then took some degreased steel wool, about a half a pad, and put it in for a couple days.
    I started by cutting the solution half and half and parking small pieces to get the solution to the correct strength. Every batch I made was different - so you'll have to experiment. To strong and you'll loose extra metal and wind up with overly 'fuzzy' parkerizing.
    I think I got the original formula from a home gunsmithing/garage gunsmithing forum about 6 or 7 years ago. Roderus possibly? Dunno.

    And yes, if I buy it from Brownells there's a hazmat fee. I usually have something significant coming in on a barge from Seattle so I am able to have my dad do some consolidating before it comes out to Dillingham.

    On plugging barrels: For premium barrels I'd plug. For standard shooters/abused boat guns and for chrome lined barrels I'd skip it. http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.co...k/pagepark.htm has a good overview of the process. Don't worry about the inside of the reciever on the Marlin, it will be fine with the parkerizing process. On small parts, (trigger/sear/hammer) I used polyurethane to protect the delicate bits.

    I use a stainless tank - I have heard from a couple folks that use a mild steel and accept that eventually it will rot out. If you skip the blasting step you will wind up with a very uneven finish. I've not tried it after sanding or wire wheel'ing.

    TTFN

  7. #7
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    Default Thanks for info

    Thanks for the additional information. I was scratching my head on the concrete cleaner - I though they were all HCl based. The phosphoric acid based cleaner makes sense! The phosphoric acid based products may also be good for cleaning relaoding brass if diluted enough and if they don't have ammonia in them as a grease soapifier.

    I'll play around with this when I get time. I may try some zinc anode made for corrosion protection instead of the pennies.

    Maybe we can get nitroman to give us a hand - he said he was a chemist.

    BTY- you can also make a pretty good hot blue solution out of sodium hydroxide (lye) and ammonium nitrate. I need to try that one up here also since shipping anything is so dang expensive.


    Quote Originally Posted by KelsonAK View Post
    I haven't been able to locate my notes on this one. Bummer. So, from memmory:

    I used a phosphoric acid based concrete cleaner from Home Depot. If you check the MSDS on the product it will give you additional information on what is in it. Don't use a muratic acid based product - won't work for this but it does work on concrete. II use a stainless tank - I have heard from a couple folks that use a mild steel and accept that eventually it will rot out. If you skip the blasting step you will wind up with a very uneven finish. I've not tried it after sanding or wire wheel'ing.

    TTFN
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

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