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Thread: System 3 Epoxy

  1. #1

    Default System 3 Epoxy

    I'm doing some fiberglass work on my boat and ran out of the System 3 Epoxy that I'm using. Is there any place in Anchorage that sells this stuff. They've got the 2.5 gallon container of it here in Homer, but I don't foresee that I'll need that much to finish my project. I'm going up to the beer and wine festival this weekend and would like purchase a gallon of epoxy at that time. Thanks.

  2. #2

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    Give West Marine a call. 349-5299

  3. #3
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    Bunny Boots and Bearcats: Utility Sled Mayhem

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    Try Plaschem out of anchorage

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Skiffkits 907 344-6677 1(800) 349-6667

    Neal has good pricing and a good suply of resin and fillers. I got my last 15 gal of sys III from him.

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    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    will system III adhere to fiberglass, need to repair crack in cabin?
    RETIRED U.S.A.F. CAPT.; LIFETIME MEMBER NRA; LIFETIME MEMBER ALASKA BOWHUNTER ASSOC.
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    Member AKBassking's Avatar
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    I do believe that is what it is designed for. I have used it and am very happy with it. Make sure you follow the guide for hardner.

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
    1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
    MMSI# 338131469
    Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Traditional fiberglass boats are made using polyester resin, which is a resin that is mixed with a catalyst. Epoxy is a two part system of resin and hardener. It's my understanding that epoxy will bond with polyester resin, but polyester won't bond to epoxy. Personally if I were repairing a polyester resin hull I'd stick with polyester resin.

    I've done a fair bit of polyester work, and repairing cracks is pretty easy. Use an angle grinder with a 36grit wheel to V out the crack. You want a very shallow V, approximately 1" to either side of the crack for thinner laminations and sand several inches around the area. Vacuum up all the dust, and wipe down the area with an acetone soaked cloth. Back the crack with masking tape to keep the resin from dripping through. Tear off some matte cloth that is 2" wide and 2" longer than the crack. Mix up some resin and brush into the prepped area. Lay the matt into the V'd area. Tear another piece of matte 4" wide and 4" longer than the crack, lay it over the previous piece, add more resin, and repeat with a 3rd piece of matte a bit larger which should now be as thick as the original laminate. After it has cured for a few days go at it with an 8" auto body sanding pad on a large angle grinder, start with 60 grit then work finer.

    Cracks generally occur due to the laminate being too thin, so you're advised to build up the back side of the laminate with a few pieces of matte to thicken up the laminate and prevent future cracks.

    Wear a respirator when sanding, and long sleeves and hat don't hurt to keep the fibers out of your skin.

  9. #9
    Member AKBassking's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul H View Post
    Traditional fiberglass boats are made using polyester resin, which is a resin that is mixed with a catalyst. Epoxy is a two part system of resin and hardener. It's my understanding that epoxy will bond with polyester resin, but polyester won't bond to epoxy. Personally if I were repairing a polyester resin hull I'd stick with polyester resin.

    I've done a fair bit of polyester work, and repairing cracks is pretty easy. Use an angle grinder with a 36grit wheel to V out the crack. You want a very shallow V, approximately 1" to either side of the crack for thinner laminations and sand several inches around the area. Vacuum up all the dust, and wipe down the area with an acetone soaked cloth. Back the crack with masking tape to keep the resin from dripping through. Tear off some matte cloth that is 2" wide and 2" longer than the crack. Mix up some resin and brush into the prepped area. Lay the matt into the V'd area. Tear another piece of matte 4" wide and 4" longer than the crack, lay it over the previous piece, add more resin, and repeat with a 3rd piece of matte a bit larger which should now be as thick as the original laminate. After it has cured for a few days go at it with an 8" auto body sanding pad on a large angle grinder, start with 60 grit then work finer.

    Cracks generally occur due to the laminate being too thin, so you're advised to build up the back side of the laminate with a few pieces of matte to thicken up the laminate and prevent future cracks.

    Wear a respirator when sanding, and long sleeves and hat don't hurt to keep the fibers out of your skin.
    Good advise! Thanks

    I am going to give you a green ball!!

    ALASKAN SEA-DUCTION
    1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
    MMSI# 338131469
    Blog: http://alaskanseaduction.blogspot.com/

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