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Thread: Removing sealed brake drum

  1. #1

    Default Removing sealed brake drum

    I have a Suzuki Ozark and the rear brake has been sticking. I am trying to take it apart to see what the problem is. I removed the dust cover and wheel assembly, backed off on the cables, but the drum will not budge. IS there a special puller or tool I need to remove the drum? Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Drum removal

    Since no one else will respond, I'll throw in my two cents from my own limited experience: get a torch and play the flames on the face where the studs go through, then start tapping on the face until it's free from the hub. Should work.

  3. #3
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Default Three words

    BIG RUBBER MALLET

    Thats what my old LT250 required. Whack it repeatedly while turning it, eventually it will break free.
    AKmud
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    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

  4. #4
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Hey Akmud-

    Since you were the owner of an old LT250, which is similar to a 300.....
    did you ever replace front CV boots? Does a person have to pull snap rings or what to remove inner axles?

  5. #5
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Default I'll check for you.

    My Bro-in-law has the service manual for the old 300 KQ's. I'll check with him and get back with ya. I believe (dusting off the memory banks) they are held in with a spring clip that compresses when you pull it out. I don't think there is anything you need to remove prior to giving it a good yank. Let me find out for sure though.
    AKmud
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/AKmud/213700RMK1-1.jpg


    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

  6. #6
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Tech. data

    Thanks Akmud. I would appreciate any info you can give me.

  7. #7
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Default Sayak.....

    Bro-in-law (with the tech manual) confirms all it takes is a good straight yank. He said he puts a strap around the spindle and then puts the spindle nut back on to hold it. Get some slack in the strap and give it a good hard/sharp yank. Sometimes they are stubborn, but it shoud pop out.

    Good luck with the CV boot, they are a pain!
    AKmud
    http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j96/AKmud/213700RMK1-1.jpg


    The porcupine is a peacful animal yet God still thought it necessary to give him quills....

  8. #8

    Smile Try A bigger hammer

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I will try some heat and some tapping with a large hammer while I turn axel, this should break it free. My problem is a sticking brake cam so it will be great to get it working again.

  9. #9
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    Default

    When you get it off, if the drum axle flange is thick enough, drill and tap 2 holes with fine thread 3/8" bolts on oposite sides of the drum where it will hit the axle. Then the next time the drum is rusted on you can press it off or at least break it loose using the bolts.

    Right now a BFH, heat, and penetrating oil are your best friends.

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