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Thread: Gun cleaning

  1. #1
    Member BucknRut's Avatar
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    Default Gun cleaning

    Alright fellas,
    I just got back from the range and as I was cleaning my rifle, I kept saying "there has got to be an easier/better way!" So what is it??

    I am a perfectionist when it comes to cleaning, so I don't mind spending the time, but I never have "system" I stick to to get the job done.
    *What is your "standard proceedure" for cleaning (especially the barrel)?
    *How do you carry/store your cleaning kit so that it is organized (and stays clean)?

    Might as well add anything about "degreesing"...I KNOW I leave my metal coated, but I am always scared about protecting it.

    All opinions appreciated!
    Thanks Guys
    Joshua

  2. #2
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    One word "WIPEOUT". This stuff is the bomb. No more leaky solvents, and splashing brushes. It removes powder fouling as well as copper. Made life so nice when I found it. Just foam up the barrell till you see the foam starting to come into the action, and the let it sit ( I normally dont need to leave it in there more than 30 minutes but you can). Run a patch through on a jag till its clean and you get dirty blue/black patches and then a shiny bore, done. You dont even need to apply oil to the bore after your done. I have tried other foaming bore cleaners but they did not work as well as "WIPEOUT". Oh and I dont work for them or have any affiliation to them, the stuff just rocks and I aint afraid to say it! I got it at Sportsmans Warehouse on a reccomendation from a friend.

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    Default Degreasing...

    Boiling hot water, a 5 gallon bucket, & some simple green or dish dawn detergent...dip the greased parts in the hot water & add detergent & let sit for sometime, & your parts will be degreased, but the water should still be hot when you remove you parts to keep from rusting. Metal heated to a certain degree will repel water naturally with evaporation.

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    I'm a big fan of Barnes CR-10.

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    Allen I used to use CR-10 for copper fouling(it was the best I had found of Hoppes and others) and I would scrub and scrub and scrub, and you know how if you shine a light in the crown you can see the copper streaks in the riflings, one 30 minute soak with Wipeout and all the streaks that were going away little by little with tons of elbow grease with CR-10 where gone immediately, that is no lie. I was sold after that. No more stinky ammonia gun room!

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    CR-10 is designed to be left in the barrel to work on the copper fouling, not too be scrubbed. Leave CR-10 in the barrel for up to 30 minutes and you should not have that problem. It's just like Sweets 7.62, Amonia based.

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    I know Allen you soak a patch and run it through and let it soak, you do that over and over and over and a nylon brush should be used to run through what like ten times or something on the next interval, anyway this process takes a lot of time,is messy not to mention the ammonia smell. With the Wipeout you only have to do it once, thats it.No ammonia smell, no scrubbing with the nylon brush and no repetetive procedures. I can thoroughly clean 3 rifles in less time than it used to take me to do 1. I would try it if you havent, I saw the light bigtime and I am anal about clean weapons when they need cleaned.

  8. #8
    Member Jason in Anchorage's Avatar
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    Default da bomb

    WIPEOUT...gun cleaning has never been so easy and thorough...go but some.

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    Member GreginAlaska's Avatar
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    I just make my wife do it...very easy.. HA! like that would ever happen.

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    I too am a perfectionist when it comes to gun cleaning and maintenance. I use MPro-7 to clean everything with and Break-Free CLP to recoat and lube. I don't spend a whole lot of time on barrel cleaning either. Just long enough to get the powder fouling out.

    From time to time I'll check copper fouling by pulling a white patch just inside the muzzle and hitting it with a Sure Fire light to look at the barrel walls. If it looks like there is getting to be a heavy build up, I'll use Tetra Copper Remover. Otherwise I don't worry too much about it.
    Now what ?

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    Default My Thoughts

    I have had great luck with Wipeout also but it is a bit pricey at $11.00 for a 5 oz. can. JB Compound will still do a great job as well but it IS work!
    Has anyone used Ballistol?

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Brake-Kleen and a Bore Snake to get the heavys out at the range then I do a more thorough job at home. I have a solvent tank and sometimes actions get to soak in it for a while if they are really bad (like my AR-15 after a day of training!). I like Gun-scrubber, but it is expensive and Brake-Kleen does a very good job (and is cheap!). A good air compressor is mandatory equipment for me.
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    Member BucknRut's Avatar
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    Default

    Can I use any of the cleaners you guys mentioned on all types of metals (stainless, blued). Should I disassemble everything first? Any bad reactions to plastic, wood, composites? Do you apply any oil once you have finished cleaning?

    Thanks for all the help
    Joshua

  14. #14
    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    Gun Scrubber is good for all surfaces. Brake-Kleen is good for metal and some plastics. It will eat the plastic follower on a Rem. 870 shotgun though (don't ask me how I know....)
    AKmud
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  15. #15

    Default

    When using wipe out, I run several patches first thru the barrel with wipe out accelerator on the patch. This removes the powder fowling so the regular wipe out works even better/faster. I also have found that after the patches come out clean, to run a wet patch with the accelerator on it thru. It comes out looking like carmel. When the wet patches come out clean then I run the dry patch thru. I really like wipe out, It costs some but you get alot of cleanings per can. With practice you learn to cant the barrel so the foam stays out of the action area.

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    Member stevelyn's Avatar
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    MPro-7 is more of a high-tech soap than a solvent. The company cautions about using it on nickle finishes that are damaged because the product can work its way up underneath the nickle finish and lift the finish from the metal.Other than that it is absolutely safe for all finishes and materials.

    You do however have to recoat and relube all metal surfaces because it strips all the oil, gunk and fouling from the pores of the metal.

    When I clean my Glock frame I spray MPro-7 all over it, let it sit, scrub with a toothbrush and rinse it under hot water.

    All other guns and parts I wipe clean.

    MPro-7, Hoppe's Elite and Butch's Bore Shine for Black powder are the same thing.
    Now what ?

  17. #17
    Member BucknRut's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Tony G View Post
    ...With practice you learn to cant the barrel so the foam stays out of the action area.
    Does this mean that I should ONLY use WIPEOUT on the barrel and NOT on the action??

  18. #18
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    Mil-tec 1 I'm a huge fan of. It will take a couple of coats. But once you have a good coating the carbon come off so easy. Cleaning is so easy now. And made it keeps my gun real slick. I use this stuff on all my service weapons.
    Living the Alaskan Dream
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    Default Cleaning

    Joshua,

    There are a lot of good cleaners out there keeping a gun clean and getting out the copper. Wipeout and blue luster are quick and easy. Also Hoppe's #9 solvent still works. However, I would never use anything on a gun that wasn't developed for cleaning a gun. Also, taking all the grease/oil off is not necessary and never would I use any degreaser chemical or hot water, for that reason, you want a coat of oil on the metal parts. Stainless or blued. There is no reason to get down to dry steel with each cleaning. Yes I know oil attracts dirt and dust but just wipe off the excess with a clean cloth and it will be fine. You will need to oil the bore, then dry, after using the copper out chemicals, such as CR-10, Sweets, etc. Use a good one piece rod, such as Dewey's, as long as the rifle, and clean from the breech end.

    Cleaning is part of the bonding with your rifle so learn to enjoy it and don't get in a hurry.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  20. #20
    Member BucknRut's Avatar
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    Default Thanks Murph!

    A lot of good points here Murph, thanks.
    I am so glad you said to NOT remove all of the oil. I was doing research on the using "degreesers/chemicals and water" to clean metal because I didn't want to believe that it was okay. I clean my guns EVERYTIME I SHOOT, so I am not worried about dust and dirt buildup. The reason I asked about "degreesing" was because I've heard of actions locking up in the cold weather and I've also heard of semi-auto pistols jambing because of excess lube. Thanks for the insight. I am going to try some of the suggested products here and continue looking for more, then stick with the one that works for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Murphy View Post
    Joshua,

    There are a lot of good cleaners out there keeping a gun clean and getting out the copper. Wipeout and blue luster are quick and easy. Also Hoppe's #9 solvent still works. However, I would never use anything on a gun that wasn't developed for cleaning a gun. Also, taking all the grease/oil off is not necessary and never would I use any degreaser chemical or hot water, for that reason, you want a coat of oil on the metal parts. Stainless or blued. There is no reason to get down to dry steel with each cleaning. Yes I know oil attracts dirt and dust but just wipe off the excess with a clean cloth and it will be fine. You will need to oil the bore, then dry, after using the copper out chemicals, such as CR-10, Sweets, etc. Use a good one piece rod, such as Dewey's, as long as the rifle, and clean from the breech end.

    Cleaning is part of the bonding with your rifle so learn to enjoy it and don't get in a hurry.

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