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Thread: PWS Anchor

  1. #1

    Default PWS Anchor

    Hi Everyone,
    I was just looking through my charts today (trying to keep from going crazy over the winter!) and I see the most of PWS has a mud or clay bottom (at least that's what I gather from my limited chart experience) so I was wondering what is the best type of anchor for this kind of bottom. What do you that frequent this area use? I know the size is dependent on your boat size, but I'm looking for the type for now.

  2. #2
    Member captaindd's Avatar
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    I have been using a Bruce Anchor with about 30ft of chain. Have not had any problems to speak of. Anchor is 22.5 pounds

  3. #3
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    BRUCE anchor 22 pounder as well ( probably a little bigger than recommended) they say chain as long as your boat. my current boat is 24foot long. I like extra weight so i use longer chain, think it is 50 but could be longer. pain to pull. I have 44 lb Bruce with 30-40 feet of very heavy chain, i carry in fall as storm anchor.
    alot of spots are rocky especially if shallow enough to anchor.
    the Bruce knock off style are alot better priced. mine are older actual Bruce anchors, doubt there is any advatage to Bruce Brand.
    RETIRED U.S.A.F. CAPT.; LIFETIME MEMBER NRA; LIFETIME MEMBER ALASKA BOWHUNTER ASSOC.
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  4. #4
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    Default Anchoring in PWS

    I relied on anchoring out with a Bruce for all my boats for over 25 years in the Sound. Danforths are prone to fouling with the rocks typical in many anchorages. As much chain as you can handle is best. I had a 44# Bruce with 200' chain and another 300' braided nylon rode on my 38' which worked well in most places. There are some anchorages where a plow works better like the north east bight in Surprise cove which has a grassy bottom. The plow cuts through this better, but most power boaters opt for the Bruce style and the blow boaters go for the plow.

  5. #5

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    24-ft glass boat with a 22-lb Bruce knockoff and 24 feet of chain and 600 feet of line. Not too good in grass, but no real problems with it overall.

  6. #6

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    Hook the chain to the elbow and lace halibut cord on the tail end or kiss it goodbye each time you drop it.

  7. #7
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    Default Both

    Quote Originally Posted by Myers View Post
    Hook the chain to the elbow and lace halibut cord on the tail end or kiss it goodbye each time you drop it.
    Lots of truth to that statement!!!!! I have both Bruce and Danforth on my boat. I use them at different times. Problem with a Bruce is if you really hang one in the rocks they are tough to retrieve and don't give much. I have bent several Danforths and was later able to beat them back to shape with a hammer. I hung my Bruce real good one time thought for sure I would be cutting it loose and loosing the 400' of rope I had out. One last time pulling with the boat and buoy and she broke free but dang near ripped the bow roller right off the front of my boat. It's amazing how tough fiberglass is. The roller and mounting plate was tweaked but no damage to the boat. Another good thing about Danforth is they don't seem to require as much chain to hook up on bottom.

  8. #8
    Sponsor potbuilder's Avatar
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    28' bowpicker, 33lb Bruce & lots of big chain & 1" double braid.

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers View Post
    Hook the chain to the elbow and lace halibut cord on the tail end or kiss it goodbye each time you drop it.
    Myers,
    Do you have a pic of this setup? Not sure I understand the "elbow" thing.

  10. #10

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    I don't have a picture available at the moment (on wife's computer as mine is on the fritz.) I will try to explain it; The anchor is basicly hook shaped. If you tie the chain to the end of hook, like a fish hook, and pull -it is hooked to whatever. Pull more and it hooks more. Now, consider you have "hooked" it under a rock or tree that you cannot pull the hook through like mud or gravel, it is going to always be hooked there forever. If you attach the chain to the 'bend or elbow' part of the anchor (there is a hole on the anchor at the elbow, get one and look at it you'll see...) you now have a pulling point at the hook part not at the end. In other words, you have a grasping point for backing the hook out. The halibut cord, ties the chain to the end (logical attaching point of the anchor) or the eyelit part of a fish hook, this is MEANT TO BE BROKEN if you hook that log or rock. Then you are pulling from the elbow once the cord breaks. The halibut cord will stay attached during normal mud/gravel anchoring time and time again, that fateful time when you get it locked under that rock you want your boat to break that cord.

    "Messenger" bouys/lines are redundent to this, they are grasping at the elbow of the anchor, doing the same thing. If I have confussed you or blabbed on, I apologize. (Put a fish hook in an orange or something, with some string, pull it through, put in on the corner of the hook and pull, it basicly backs out the hook...)

  11. #11
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    BRUCE anchor 22 pounder and 22 foot chain for my 26ft boat
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  12. #12
    New member fishnhuntr's Avatar
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    Default water's cold, and deep....

    http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...set=ISO-8859-1

    Long link I know but this is what I use for my 20', rivers and PWS, has worked very well for me. Several of my buddies have bought them since and everyone seems to like them. I have the 25 pounder. In case the link doesn't come through it's the richtor anchor from Cabelas.

    Cody

  13. #13

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    I like the attachment link, it seems like it will always be retrievable with the design. But, that is not a "plow" design that I would trust in an ocean/storm situation. The "plow" design bites' and digs' down the more it's pulled. That looks like it would drag through gravel or clay like a fork. Just my opinion, I may be wrong.

  14. #14
    Member spoiled one's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myers View Post
    I like the attachment link, it seems like it will always be retrievable with the design. But, that is not a "plow" design that I would trust in an ocean/storm situation. The "plow" design bites' and digs' down the more it's pulled. That looks like it would drag through gravel or clay like a fork. Just my opinion, I may be wrong.

    That is how I see it, too. I looks like a great lunch anchor, though.
    Spending my kids' inheritance with them, one adventure at a time.

  15. #15
    Member Deak's Avatar
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    Default Lost Richtors!

    Quote Originally Posted by fishnhuntr View Post
    http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...set=ISO-8859-1

    Long link I know but this is what I use for my 20', rivers and PWS, has worked very well for me. Several of my buddies have bought them since and everyone seems to like them. I have the 25 pounder. In case the link doesn't come through it's the richtor anchor from Cabelas.

    Cody
    I used 25# richtors on my 20ft boat all summer in Seward. They held great, almost too good... I lost 2 that I couldn't retrieve once they set. It got expensive losing them so I switched back to a smaller danforth instead. It works but its much harder for me to set.

    They sold the Richtors at sportsmans warehouse this summer. It was cheaper to pick up there than buy online and pay the shipping.

  16. #16
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    I'd bet a piece of railroad track with a hole burned in one end would work as good as one of those sputnik looking anchors, 20 lbs is 20 lbs when you pull it up & no big deal if you hang it down and lose it.

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