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Thread: Fiberglass repair

  1. #1
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    Default Fiberglass repair

    My son bumped into the back of my snowmachine and my bumper struck his nearly new candy apple red fiberglass cowling and cracked it in several places. He was not going very fast but maybe at -23 fiberglass shatters more easily. Do you know anyone in the Valley that can nicely repair this? Cost?? A friend suggested buying a fiberglass repair kit at Walmart and doing it myself. I wonder how challenging that would be? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Default figerglass for sure?

    Are you absolutely sure it is fiberglass and not some type of plastic? What make, model and year is the machine? If fiberglass, it is not too difficult to master. If plastic, of any sort, fiberglass resin will not stick. It will look good for a while, but it will not stick and will fall off.
    I have had some success with ABS Cement on plastic cowlings. Lucky enough for me, the cowling I was working on is black. So the cement matched good enough for that old sled. Use fiberglass mat or cloth, just like doing a normal fiberglass repair.
    There are several types of pipe cement/adhesive, one of which is clear. It will take pigment, or color, much the same as fiberglass resin. You could try to match that at a paint store, and start there. It won't look perfect but will be close. When sanded it will almost match, and then a final spray coat of paint will cover it.
    If you want the job/repair just to hold, it is easy to do yourself. But it will not look like a professional job when done unless you have a lot of time to spend and have the right tools.

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    Default

    It is an 2002 340 Polaris Indy...Thanks for the info.

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    Member Roger45's Avatar
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    Default

    I cracked an Arctic Cat cowling using reverse off a trailer. Put a good size dent in it. I tried a couple of different products that did not work. I went to the Wasilla AC dealer and they had something like a two part epoxy in any color you want as long as you want Black. This stuff worked fantastic. They said it was a *special* product strictly for cowlings. Well worth it IMHO.
    "...and then Jack chopped down the beanstock, adding murder and ecological vandalism to the theft, enticement and vandalism charges already mentioned, but he got away with it and lived happily ever after without so much as a guilty twinge about what he had done. Which proves that you can be excused just about anything if you're a hero, because no one asks the inconvenient questions." Terry Pratchett's The Hogfather

  5. #5
    Member sayak's Avatar
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    Default Injection molding

    Quote Originally Posted by Douglask View Post
    It is an 2002 340 Polaris Indy...Thanks for the info.
    I'm pretty sure that is what you have on your Polaris. I've heard of secret formulii out there that can fix the stuff (epoxy based) such as Roger mentioned. The guy at our local shop that services and sells used parts for all brands told me that the construction grade adhesives used for concrete works. Don't know. I've tried various types of poly and epoxy fixes, w/w/o mesh. None worked. I finally bought an almost new cowling from the same guys which had less cracks in it and am going from there. My machine is so old I don't care if it looks too much like Frankenstein when I sew up cracks with heavy fish line. That's old time Alaska red neck teknologee, and I are one.

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    Default

    Thanks again, I'll stop by the AC dealer and maybe Hartley and see what they got.

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    Default too cheap

    I guess I was too cheap to even look at products the dealers might have. Seemed to me plastic pipe cement would work. I had it, so tried it, and got lucky I guess. That cowling happened to be an old ski doo, so no idea on how that plastic and new ones might be different. Sure would be nice to find some cowling pieces and try the stuff out before using it on the finished project.
    I did drill small holes on either side of the cracks and used .o20 stainless safety wire to sew the big pieces together. I kept the knots on the outside. Then glassed and glued the inside. After the ABS cement dried, I cut the wire and pulled it through, kind of like removing stitches. That seemed to hold the pieces in place pretty well. Just a thought.
    After I removed the wire, I added glass and cement in layers to the outside, and after it dried added cement little by little to float it all out.
    I have a hard time believing anything would glue the cracks back together and hold without some sort of cloth to stiffen it and spread the stress. Maybe though. Let us know.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Go to NAPA and buy a flexible bumper repair kit. Rough up the inside of the cowl to get better adhesion. I use fiberglass cloth along with the 2-part stuff in the kit and it works great. If you can fit the pieces together neatly its best to leave the outside alone. On one sled I had damaged the very nose and the cracks showed. I masked the area and used some spray can stuff like Rhino Lining in an even stripe across the nose. It looks factory.

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