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Thread: How many pins?

  1. #1
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    Default How many pins?

    I'm a newbie to bow hunting (but not hunting)

    I'm putting together a bow that I will use mainly for caribou but also Black Bear.

    My question is, how many pins should I get on my site. Three pins or Five pins or something else.

    One person told me that I should go with three because at the moment of truth, five can get confusing.

    Any thoughts???

    If it helps the bow I'm setting up is made by Diamond, the model is "The Rock"

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Forum Admin Brian M's Avatar
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    3 would likely be fine to start with - one for 20, 30, and 40 yards. That being said, you'll likely find yourself wanting 5 once you've been shooting for a while. I have pins in 10 yard increments from 20-60 yards. I suppose if you're rushing a shot it might get confusing, but if you're controlled in your thoughts and actions (as you should be when you're about to shoot at an animal), it shouldn't be too much of a problem. The key, of course, is LOTS of practice.

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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    That would depend on a few things. Arrow weight, draw weight (arrow velocity), not to mention range you will be shooting out too. My vote is go to a good archery store and try them out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuJon View Post
    That would depend on a few things. Arrow weight, draw weight (arrow velocity), not to mention range you will be shooting out too. My vote is go to a good archery store and try them out.

    Draw weight will be max 80 lbs. I will set it up for 70 or 80. Arrow velocity for my bow is stated at up to 310 FPS. Range- I kind of figured 40 yds would be a good starting point for a maximum distance shot. Arrow weight- Not sure on the arrows, but my draw is 30" and I planned on setting up with 125 gr. heads. Does that help??


    Brian, thanks for the insight, I will probably start with the three unless someone convinces me otherwise.

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    Default Option

    I use a 5 pin site. I know some people who put little yardage labels on the site pin posts. Might be a good idea.

  6. #6

    Default Pins

    My wife puts pins in her hair, I nock arrows on my bow. You don't need pins just get closer.
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    Moderator LuJon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
    Draw weight will be max 80 lbs. I will set it up for 70 or 80. Arrow velocity for my bow is stated at up to 310 FPS. Range- I kind of figured 40 yds would be a good starting point for a maximum distance shot. Arrow weight- Not sure on the arrows, but my draw is 30" and I planned on setting up with 125 gr. heads. Does that help??


    Brian, thanks for the insight, I will probably start with the three unless someone convinces me otherwise.
    Here are a couple online calculator that will help you get an idea of how much drop you will see based on your setup:
    http://home.att.net/~sajackson/ballistics.html

    http://www.outdoorsden.com/archery/archbal.asp

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    Default Why 70/80 pounds?

    Quote Originally Posted by John S View Post
    Draw weight will be max 80 lbs. I will set it up for 70 or 80.
    John,
    I am wondering why you are going so large on draw weight? If you have not shot a bow before, and unless you are one heck of a stout dude, it will difficult to draw starting out. It will take time to develop your shooting muscles.

    During my practice, I start out on target, but after a couple of rounds, my arrows hit to the right or left of my aim point. If I put the bow to bed, and come back the next day, the arrows hit where they were supposed to. to me, that means I or my muscles are getting tire. I think a heavier draw weight will make it worse.

    I use myself as an example. I bought my BT Guardian, 60/70 draw wt, I started at 70, and I couldn't shoot it. I adjusted it down to 58-60, and I was able to shot okay. After 4-5 months of practice, and right before hunting season, I jacked it up to 70, and I was able to shoot okay.

    Well placed shots will kill a caribou just as dead with a 50 lb draw or 80 lb draw. Looks at regs with respect to min draw weights.

    With your heavier draw weights, you may have a difficut time getting properly spined arrows. With the lower draw weights, you have many more choices on arrows.

    When I bought my bow, I started doing research in www.huntersfriend.com there is really good info on compound bow selection.

    If the adverstised IBO speed of the bow you are interested is in the 310-320 fps, that DOES NOT mean you will have consistent shots. The reason for this is the 350 gr. arrow weight, and 30" draw, 70 lb draw basis for the IBO speed. I doubt you can get a properly spined arrow that is 350 gr. With 100 gr tips, my arrows are 400 gr. with 125 gr tips, they are 425 gr.

    Anyway, there are many other folks in the forum, that have much more experience than I and will likely provide advice. I started research in 9/2007, bought bow 3/2008, and got my bow card 8/2008. Needless to say, it has been a fun learning experience.

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    Moderator AKmud's Avatar
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    +1 on the draw weight....too heavy to start.

    Drop the weight down to where it is comfortable to shoot (ie- you don't have to grunt every time to pull it back). It will make your practice much more enjoyable. Then, once you have good form, start working it up. 70# is about as high as I like to shoot and most archery pros will tell you any game animal in North America can be killed with a 60# bow.

    Archery is more finesse than force. I'd rather hit my target at 60# than fight the shot at 80#.

    Regarding the pins......start with 3, you can always add more! (KISS method)
    AKmud
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  10. #10

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    For me, knowing what my farthest range is will determine how many pins I have on my site. Right now I won't shoot out past 30 yards so I only use 2 of my 3 pins. When I decide that I can extend my range then I will use the 3rd and maybe even add a 4th pin.

  11. #11
    Member moose-head's Avatar
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    I would suggest three pins as well. I "started out" with three and never found a need to add more.

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    Forum Admin Brian M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKmud View Post
    +1 on the draw weight....too heavy to start.


    70# is about as high as I like to shoot
    Note that the above advice is coming from a big dude more than capable of drawing heavier weights.

    It's not an issue of strength, it is an issue of consistency and accuracy. Like other guys, I spend most of the year practicing in the low 60s. If I'm going sheep or caribou hunting I might crank my bow up closer to 70 in the weeks before the hunt, but it is far better to practice at a low weight so as to focus on accuracy. A higher draw weight will not only cause you to tire more quickly, but it will magnify the imperfections in your form. A max draw weight of 70 is more than enough.

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    Default Numbers of Pins

    I got carried away on my post eariler, and did't quite get to the accuracy point. All of the other posts since my last one, are on point, accuracy is paramount at any distance, and good form and other factors contribute to that.

    I have a 5 pin sight, but I have only really used 3 most of the time, out to 40 yards. Once I am confident with making consistent shots at greaters distances, I will use the other two pins.

  14. #14
    Member jakec5253's Avatar
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    Default pins

    I would buy the 5 pin to start with, but take 2 of the pins off. This will save you from buying a 3 pin now, and then upgrading to a 5 pin when you want to extend you distance some. Most sites have pins that are fairly easy to remove, and with the price they are asking for some of the sites on the market, I sure wouldn't want to have to buy two of them things. I think it would also help with consistency, since you would be looking at the same site the whole time, just with more pins later. Good luck on your search, and practice a whole bunch.

    Jake

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    Member SusitnaAk's Avatar
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    I like One pin with ajustable type sight. Get a range finder, +1 too what was said before,on the draw weight. Start light draw and close 10yd,s then move back little at a time. If groups start to widen than move closer, If you can,t hit at 10 you really wasting your time at 40. This is a game of form, Its really is where you hit them, that counts, more than what you hit them with. Want to up your learning curve get a coach, He will know what arrows, tuning, sight ajust. draw weight you can handle,ect....Money well spent. One more thing when you draw your bow Straight back,no up or down to get it back, or you make a face in doing it it,s to heavy, staight back no strain, Start there, Have Fun,

  16. #16
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    I have a five pin set up
    Living the Alaskan Dream
    Gary Keller
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  17. #17
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    Default 1

    i have a one pin adjustable with a finger adjustment so i can adjust at full draw... but i agree with the go look at some sights and through some.

  18. #18
    Member Mort's Avatar
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    I'd recommend going with the 5-pin from the start. You may not think you want to shoot at an animal beyond say 30-40 yards, but it's nice to be able to practice out to greater ranges to build your confidence. I thought a 3-pin would be OK, and it was for a while. I haven't taken a shot over 33 yards at an animal, but being able to practice beyond that greatly increases my confidence in the shorter shots.

    If you are concerned about costs, check eBay or ArcheryTalk.com. They have lots of used stuff for sale, too.

    Chris

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    I am a two pin guy. I dont shoot past 30-35 yards and have shot a ton of deer and never wated more. One set at 20 and one at 30. with todays bows they shoot very flat compared to the older bows and heavy arrows. I have nothign against more pins i just like have my sight window cleaner. If its under 20 i just hold a bit low.

  20. #20
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    Default 4 pins

    I use a Copper John with a 4 pin set-up.

    It was orginally a 3-pin sight. I added the extra pin from a set of 3 extra pins. So now I have 4 pins on the sight and 2 extra pins back in camp just in case. I have them set at 15, 30, 45, & 60. The 15 is for grouse and 60 is max with not too many pins to get confused by. Works for me.

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