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Thread: Painting a barrel?

  1. #1
    New member AKDSLDOG's Avatar
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    Default Painting a barrel?

    Well after a few nights of researching stocks for the new .220, I have chosen to do it all my self and see what happens?

    I will rework the stock then paint a winter camo pattern on the complete rifle. I've got the info down for the stock and scope but they never went into detail on the barrel, what to use to scuff it up to make the paint stick? IDEA'S?????

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    Use a scotch brite pad. Primer it and shoot it with rustoleum. After a couple of years just redo it and you are as good as new.
    Tennessee

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    All I did on my 338 was degreased it real good and hit it with the rustoleum. lasted about 7 years before I had to "re-finish" it. It was also my primary go-to rifle.

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    New member AKDSLDOG's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I took the .220 all apart tonight and the stock will go to the belt sander in the morning ..... Stoked about this project, just a little nervous......


    I plan on doing a full write up along with pics for this project, so stay tuned!

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    Member AKRoadkill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKDSLDOG View Post
    Thanks guys, I took the .220 all apart tonight and the stock will go to the belt sander in the morning ..... Stoked about this project, just a little nervous......


    I plan on doing a full write up along with pics for this project, so stay tuned!
    A belt sander will take off a BUNCH of material quickly. Be very careful, if you go that route.. When stripping stocks, I use paint remover, then scrape, then very fine sandpaper then 0000 steel wool. comes out smooth and the dimensions don't change enough to be noticeable.

    But then, I prep 'em for oiling, not painting.

  6. #6

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    I've done several stocks over the years and never considered a belt sander. Are you trying to shorten stock?
    File works better for removing material

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    New member AKDSLDOG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspecialus View Post
    I've done several stocks over the years and never considered a belt sander. Are you trying to shorten stock?
    File works better for removing material
    The rifle is a Varmint/Target .220 swift so the fore stock is really wide, I'd say 3.5" to 4" wide. It's not a comfortable feel for me so I am going to take it down to the "traditional hunting" style. I was hoping to find a aftermarket stock for this project, but have not found one that will work for the MK77 MarkII bull barrel. The stock is a perdy one but, not functional for what I am after. And yes, I will be VERY careful with the belt sander.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKDSLDOG View Post
    The rifle is a Varmint/Target .220 swift so the fore stock is really wide, I'd say 3.5" to 4" wide. It's not a comfortable feel for me so I am going to take it down to the "traditional hunting" style. I was hoping to find a aftermarket stock for this project, but have not found one that will work for the MK77 MarkII bull barrel. The stock is a perdy one but, not functional for what I am after. And yes, I will be VERY careful with the belt sander.
    I'd like some "before & after" pics!
    I have a '98 Mauser in 358 NM that I was given on "long term loan" (the term basically being "life") & told to do as I want with. It has about half a walnut tree on it. I thought about making a light weight stock out of it, but it's beautiful s is & I'm not one of those guys that can "see" a stock in a piece of wood so I decided I better leave it alone & picked up a used fiberglass replacement. Gun lost near #2.5!

    I'm glad to hear someone mention painting a rifle. I've thought about it & wondered why it wouldn't work well if quality primer & paint are used. I would love to get a nice weather-proof coating but funding just isn't there, & I doubt a federal bailout is in the works for gun owners
    Vance in AK.

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    I usually hand sand and use a file.

    Heres my last 2 projects. the walnut on is for my 416rem (1917 action) and the maple one still has some work to do on it yet but its for a mauser 98. I ran out of actions so this one will wait for a while.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Default hey sled dog

    I did the same thing took a bull barreled stock and narrowed it up, don't do like me I took too much material off, do some then reassemble and think for a bit before you take more off. I ended up buying a syn. by the time I was done, should have just bought one in the beginning, bought one for a narrow barrel then channeled it out with my dremal for the bull barrel. That way you keep your factory in good shape.
    P.S. got it here if you'd like it came off a mkII 250 free 2 good home call me
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  11. #11
    Mark
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    Curt's thread got me kinda' excited to refinish a Browning BL-22 I have that has been handled pretty rough. I checked the Duracoat website and was going to place an order, but noticed their site specifically stated that they ship "48 States" only.

    I emailed them. Got a reply today.

    It's available in the Lower 48 only, and there is no dealer up here.

    So my question now is:

    What type of paint are you guys using?

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    Default Aluma Hyde II

    Brownells sells a spray paint that works good, ALUMA-HYDE II, comes in an aerosal spray can.

  13. #13
    Mark
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    Thanks for that tip, but:

    Cannot ship outside Continental United States. Ship UPS Ground only within U.S.
    Obviously, there's some sort of hazmat situation going on here.

    What a bunch of BS.

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    Here's my .300 Weatherby... I had it parkerized by Lou at Ammo Can Guns in Anchorage for $30 a few years ago. Then I painted the stock OD green




    Then after a few years of serious abuse I decided to take it all apart and paint it camo. I think it came out pretty cool.... I just degreased it as best I could and painted it. I've shot it several times since and the paint seems to stay on. I mean what does it matter at this point, all I have to do is paint it again if it scratches off right?








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    Alaskacajun, I assume you just used a "krylon" type flat paint?
    Looks good.
    Vance in AK.

    Matthew 6:33
    "But seek first the kingdom of God and His righteousness, and all these things shall be added to you."

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    Default Parkerize first if possible

    If possible lightly dust blast - finer than sand blasting - and the then parkerize. Parkerizing is MUCH easier than hot bluing as the temperatures are much lower and the chemicals less aggreesive on the human hide. After parkerizing wash in boiling purified water and let dry.

    You can then paint it with a tough paint like epoxy enamel and odds are you will never need to refinish it again. The Brits used this treatment on some of their military stuff and I had to file the finish off - nothing else would touch it.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
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    What about Arctic Kote from Arctic Gunworks? I have a 350 Griffen & Howe that I am thinking about having done but I would like to know more about it first.

  18. #18
    Mark
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    Quote Originally Posted by 450HUNTER View Post
    What about Arctic Kote from Arctic Gunworks?....
    It looks like an outstanding finish, but it isn't quite what I was looking for.

    I've had several firearms refinished by Robar, including a full camo job. I can't praise them enough, but it ain't cheap.

    The rifle I wanted to paint is a .22 that I will use on hare/grouse hunts. The rifle is a Browning BL-22, which isn't a cheap 22, but a Robar finish will cost more than the used rifle is worth.

  19. #19
    Member Alaskacajun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vance in AK View Post
    Alaskacajun, I assume you just used a "krylon" type flat paint?
    Looks good.

    Yeah, I believe it was some sort of "military" style paint that Krylon makes.

    I imagine if your barrel was gonna get really hot you could use engine paint with decent results!

    - Clint
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKDSLDOG View Post
    Well after a few nights of researching stocks for the new .220, I have chosen to do it all my self and see what happens?

    I will rework the stock then paint a winter camo pattern on the complete rifle. I've got the info down for the stock and scope but they never went into detail on the barrel, what to use to scuff it up to make the paint stick? IDEA'S?????
    I've painted hundreds of barrels & actions and never saw any need to scuff them up first, degrease it with acetone 3 times, clean rag each time, it will be good for many many years!

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