Interarms Mark X bedding Question
I recently purchased a Interarms Mark X in 30-06 wood stock. Scope is a used VX-II 2-7 that I mounted on the base that came on the rifle, all screws are tight. I was raised around Winchester and Savage Lever guns so bolts are completely new too me.
So far I only have 20 rounds (American Eagle 150 grain) through it and accuracy is kind of spotty. Out of say 6 shots, 4 will group real good (about 1.5") and the other 2 will be 2 or 3" away in random directions. It seems to do this consistently, but in no particular order. I know that I am not using the best ammo, but this seems really bad and I feel confident I am not pulling these shots.
The action and barrel are plastic or glass bedded from the ejection port to the main taper of the barrel. Both front and rear action screws are on pillers with the rear piller floating and the front bedded. The bedding is not real even under the barrel and the bottom sides and front of the recoil lug is bedded tight, from what I understand this is no no.
Okay for the questions:
Is this the way the factory beds the mark X or was this done later?
Should I consider bedding the whole action and first part of the barrel?
Am I even on the right track here or should I be looking else where for the problem?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I have never seen a Mark X bedded as such from the factory. Most of the Mark X that I have been associated with shot reasonably well with no factory bedding.
All of the bedding work and stuff that has been done on your gun indicates to me that someone was maybe already trying to help the accuracy and could have actually made it worse. I have personally been there and done that. If it were me I would look into getting a good aftermarket stock for your gun. If your in love with wood and not wanting syntetic then there are several cheap aftermarket walnut stocks that come semi- inletted for the Mark 10.
Give Brownells.com a look.
First get that back pillar glued (epoxed) in tight, as in no movement at all. Be sure to get the screws tight when you reassemble.
Second; try firing 3 round groups at points sperated by enough space so that you can diffentaly(sp?) id each group. Make sure that the barrel cools between groups. If the groups are in about the same place (in relation to the aiming point) and about the same size then you are good to go.
Unless you have a very good idea how many rounds have been fired through the rifle doing a copper cleaning might be a good idea. Also having someone with a bore scope check the barrel, particularly the throat and first few inches of the barrel might be a very good idea.
Hope this helps,
Last edited by chris112; 11-05-2008 at 17:41.
Reason: spelling error
Thanks for the replies. I tried a good cleaning (Wipe-Out did a great job, just don't get it in open cuts) and some other ammunition with similar results.
So, I am going to rebed it. In removeing the current bedding I found traces of at least one previous bedding job. If it did not bed correctly twice before I likely will have little luck but I figure for $22 for a bedding kit what have I got to lose. I will also bed the rear pillar as part of this bedding.
If this doesn't help I guess I will try getting a new scope, though I think this one is good. And if that does not work I guess it is on to a new barrel.
Thanks for the help.
I had bedded the action and first 2 1/2" of the barrel using acraglas. I the relieved the back of the tang and drill out the pillers a 64th bigger to be sure and not split the tang. I left the magazine unbedded all around as it is part of the aluminum floor plate and the recoil lug would have to completely let go before it would take any recoil. After looking on the internet I used Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent. It worked very well and is defiantly makes a thinner layer then the stuff that comes with the acraglas.
The rifle now shots much better. Two groups of 4 150 grain federals grouped in a vertical string 2" tall and 3/4" wide, but it was cold out and I really did not let the barrel cool as much as I should have between shots so I think that is the cause of the vertical group. It still does not much like 165 or 180 grain bullets but I have only tried one make of each. I will start some 180 grain hand loads and see how it goes. Defiantly minute of mouse accurate now though.