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Thread: Crimping location for 44 spl lswc

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    Default Crimping location for 44 spl lswc

    Hi, I just received some lazer cast 240 grain bullets I want to load in some new 44 spl cases with Unique powder. The load charts show 6 grains is a safe starter. I am not sure how far to seat the bullet but Oregon Trail recommends a moderate crimp. I compared it to a factory hp for length(dont have caliper yet) and it looks like it should be seated and crimped so it butts up against the first ring from the tip of the bullet. there is a groove there that I guess is the cannaluer. Also is the green wax in lower groove for lube? I am pretty sure I am doing it ok but want to make sure. I loaded a few and they look ok. I also bought som Berry plated 220 grain FP and I guess they need no crimp but I can push a bullet into a case and it will ,with little effort by hand, fall into the new remington 44 spl and mag case. Is this normal or will I have to resize my new cases? Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormy View Post
    Hi, I just received some lazer cast 240 grain bullets I want to load in some new 44 spl cases with Unique powder. The load charts show 6 grains is a safe starter. I am not sure how far to seat the bullet but Oregon Trail recommends a moderate crimp. I compared it to a factory hp for length(dont have caliper yet) and it looks like it should be seated and crimped so it butts up against the first ring from the tip of the bullet. there is a groove there that I guess is the cannaluer. Also is the green wax in lower groove for lube? I am pretty sure I am doing it ok but want to make sure. I loaded a few and they look ok. I also bought som Berry plated 220 grain FP and I guess they need no crimp but I can push a bullet into a case and it will ,with little effort by hand, fall into the new remington 44 spl and mag case. Is this normal or will I have to resize my new cases? Thanks
    The Laser Cast have a crimping groove (cannelure, if you prefer les Francais, which means channel). You must cover the lube by seating it completely in the case. Depending on which style of LC bullets, the Keith style will allow you to crimp above the driving band but this may reduce accuracy in the special because the bullet doesn't lie in the throat. Also, 8.0 grains of Unique, with the 240 to 250 grain cast, is considered standard for the 44 Special. Always crimp in a seperate operation.

    If you Berry plated bullets seat so easily you either forgot to sze the case or need a smaller expander ball. And no you don't crimp unless there is a groove to crimp into, with the exception of a slight taper crimp (if you have a taper crimp die), just to remove any flare in the case.
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    Starting from the tip of the bullet is the first tapered groove the canluer that I use? That is on the Laser Cast bullets. The length is the same as factory then. Also why make crimping a different step? Cant I seat the bullet and crimp at the same time? I did use the resizing die and the Berrys fit fine. I tried 6 grains with unique and the 240 swc Lasercast and it seems ok but I think I will try a little more now. I think my Speer manual says a max of 6.3 and another load data says 6.8 so I better not go above that. I think I will load a few at 6.3 and try them. It sure was nice yesterday firing off rounds knowing I loaded them myself as well as a little cheaper then factory. Thanks for the help.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stormy View Post
    Starting from the tip of the bullet is the first tapered groove the canluer that I use? That is on the Laser Cast bullets. The length is the same as factory then. Also why make crimping a different step? Cant I seat the bullet and crimp at the same time? I did use the resizing die and the Berrys fit fine. I tried 6 grains with unique and the 240 swc Lasercast and it seems ok but I think I will try a little more now. I think my Speer manual says a max of 6.3 and another load data says 6.8 so I better not go above that. I think I will load a few at 6.3 and try them. It sure was nice yesterday firing off rounds knowing I loaded them myself as well as a little cheaper then factory. Thanks for the help.

    The loading manuals for the 44 special allow for the older revolvers made for the caliber that may not be as strong as a modern revolver. Thus the conservative charge weight with Unique. You can certainly make nice plinkers with that data.

    The crimp groove is the first groove below the nose and that should load to correct overall length.

    The crimping ridge is in the seating die but not meant to be used while seating. If you seat and crimp with the same stroke of the ram when seating the last .020" of travel of the ram will roll the mouth of the case into a nice crimp. It will also crinkle the case as the ram is stilling moving up as the crimp is being applied. It won't do it on all of the cases but will do it and and usually those crinkled cases won't chamber.

    Seat them all to where the mouth is in the middle of the bullets crimp groove without the crimp ridge contacting the casae, then back off the seater stem and screw down the die to engage the crimp ridge. A normal crimp is about 1/4 th turn down after you start to feel the die contact the case mouth of a loaded round. This will give from about .020" of crimp. I use a washer to hold the die up slightly after I set to crimp correctly. I put a large flat washer around the die (7/8") under the lock nut, then screw the seating stem down to correct seating depth.

    I take a newly sized case, without a bullet in it and flare it slightly then put it in the shell holder and run the ram all the way up. Then screw the die down until it contacts the case mouth firmly. The lower the ram and screw the die down 1/4 turn and raise the ram. This will crimp the case mouth and you can see the crimp and how much you're getting. Correct crimp will be about .020" to .025". This formual is .071" is one turn of the 78x14 die threads. 1/2 turn gives .0355" and 1/4 turn will give about .018" of crimp. So slightly more than 1/4 turn down. Then put the washer on the die and adjust the seating stem to correct seating depth. Don't forget to unscrew the seater stem before crimping.

    Another way that is better and faster is to buy a separate crimping die. The Lee factroy crimp die or I prefer the Redding profile crimp die. This forth die will allow you to set all dies up for proper function and not readjust them between steps.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



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    Great information, Thanks

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