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Thread: water well

  1. #1
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    Default water well

    Does anyone know of someone that can drill a well in the remote area ? I've tried sand points and no luck, I heard there are rigs out there that can do it.

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    Look up deeprock.com, its a kinda neat little machine

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    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    PennJersey in Big Lake has a tracked rig. (907) 892-7206

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    I tried one of those deeprock drillers back in the 80's, not much luck so I made a ice auger out of it. does anyone know of somebody that has actually completed a well with a Deeprock outfit ?

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    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    Never tried one, tho thought about getting one to put in a well at the cabin. What kinda problems did you have with it? How far is it to water where you're at? I'd have to go down at least 40', and was pretty seriously looking at one of these rigs. To get a track rig in there, it would probably cost me around $7,000

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    The deeprock drills good in topsoil, but when the drilling gets a little hard, like gravel, theres not enough pull down power or power in general to go through hard material and the rig just sits and bounces. I have no idea how far to water at the cabin, about 3 feet down the ground turns into hard-pan and I don't know how deep it goes. Its probably a bad idea to think of drilling a well and may have to just keep using the water from the lake and filtering it like we have for the pass 27 years.

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    Default Water well

    Try Googling cable tool drilling. Cable tool drilling is very slow, in harder rock such as limestone or dolomite you can measure progress in feet per day, however I have no doubt that a mechanically inclined person could cobble such a rig together on-site. The technology goes back 2000 years to ancient China and was extensively used for drilling both water and oil wells up to the early 1900's when it was replaced by rotary drilling. I'm only recommending this because:
    The rig can be built on-site
    Given time you can drill through just about anything.
    Good luck
    Steve

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    Steve..... thanks a lot from the info. I'll do a little research, I 'm up for anything at this point. It sure would be nice to actually have water on site.
    Larry

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    I have friends who've used Deep Rock machines successfully. I blew my well in hydraulically with a 2" trash pump. I think you can still get a submersible pump for a 3" casing. That's what I used. If you try the hydraulic method you need to have a good idea of how deep you'll need to go and have the entire casing assembled and ready to sink. That limits the technique to relatively shallow wells. I'm at 18'.

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    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    Theres a little info on the deep rock rig on the "alaska gold forum". Just seen it and thought I'd pass it on. Pretty good info. E.S.

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    Member AK_Mark's Avatar
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    Check this site Fred has some great info.

    http://www.fdungan.com/well.htm

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    AK_Mark thanks great site, I tried a sand point years ago and had no luck, the ground is so hard its going to have to be drilled with some type of drill rig and like I said above, I haven't any idea how deep to water.

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    Here's a hint for guys trying to find water using a sand point. Drive the point to a chosen depth, say 8' or 10'. Remove the drive shoe and fill the pipe with water. If the pipe fills up, no biggie, drive it down further. Repeat trying to fill the pipe occasionally, or just keep an eye on the water in the pipe. When the sand point hits water the pipe will empty. In fact you won't be able to fill the pipe when the point is in an aquifer. That's how to tell if you've made it to water yet. If you're using a pitcher pump on top of the pipe make sure to add a check valve just below the pump. You won't have to prime the pump because the valve will keep the pipe full of water. Just unscrew the valve a couple of turns in the fall to let air into the pipe so the water drains back down or your pipe will freeze.

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    Mr. Pid Thanks I plan on using a sand point at my cabin in Willow. I am on the road system but for now itís my weekend getaway. Good luck!


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    Nice. A little of topic.....but I see you used 1x4 slats for your metal roof. My original cabin has full OSB sheeting and the addition has 1x4 slats. This fall I had a leak in the roof and went to find it. That was easy. Every screw on the south side of the slatted roof had backed out, and I mean backed out almost all the way. Not a single screw in the plywood was loose. The metal-to-metal stitching screws were tight. Weird! Keep a look out on the sunny side for loose screws!

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    Smile

    Thanks for the tip I will keep an eye on it. I am currently in Juneau but I am moving back up next week! I cant wait to start spending every weekend there. My wife and I got it wired and insulated back in June next we will sheetrock.

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