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Thread: kerosene vrs stove oil, AKA cabin confusion

  1. #1
    Member Daveintheburbs's Avatar
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    Default kerosene vrs stove oil, AKA cabin confusion

    Iím heading out to Kodiak deer hunting in a few weeks and am confused about what is required for fuel in the Refuge cabin stoves. The Refuge folks say ď#2 keroseneĒ. I am familiar with kerosene and #2 stove oil but not #2 kerosene. Huge difference in price between the two by the way and I have always used stove oil in cabins I have used in other areas. I can understand using kerosene in an unvented heater, but the cabin heaters exhaust outside. I donít want to goon anything up, but if #2 works Iíll take it. On top of all that, isnít Jet A essentially kerosene with additives? Can anyone offer Kodiak refuge cabin specific experience or provide general petroleum distillate advice.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Member stevelyn's Avatar
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    Dave,

    Don't pay any attention to the refuge fedpukes as they rarely know what they're talking about.

    #1 and #2 stove oil are the same as #1 & #2 diesel w/ #1 esentially being kerosene. The difference is motor fuel tax.
    Now what ?

  3. #3

    Default stove oil

    I have the same kind of pot burner stove in my cabin that the feds use in theirs. Don't use #2 diesel unless it's absolutely the only fuel you have. It is really dirty burning, and either you or the next guy to use the cabin may have a messy cleanup job to unclog the stove.
    I use Jet-A in my stove since it's the cheapest available where I'm located, burns pretty clean too. If you use kerosene that's fine, but you'll use fuel a little faster due to it's thinner viscosity, I think it burns hotter too. Basically you're fine with Jet-A, kerosene, or #1 stove oil which I think is the same as #1 diesel. Just don't use anything that starts with #2.
    Mark

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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Dittos on not using Diesel. When we stayed in a state cabin on Montague, we brought diesel. The first couple nigths it ran fine, then it started plugging up. You could run it full blast just fine, but if you set the stove a lower more comfortable setting it would go out during the night, you (I) would wake up around 3-4 am and get it going again.

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    Member Daveintheburbs's Avatar
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    Just in case I wind up in the same situaton How do I clean the stove to get it running properly?

  6. #6
    Member Daveintheburbs's Avatar
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    Here is the end result for any thread miners who may stumble on this at some time in the future:

    As posted, both #1 heating oil/ diesel or kerosine worked fine. I wound up with one pail of each.

    Heating oil from a bulk dealer is definately the cheapest way to go, but you have to deal with buying bulk containers and gettting them filled. In the end I wound up getting my Kerosine from AIH.

    The ferry will make you surrender your fuel for a ride across in the paint locker, so it may be less hassle to just pick it up in Kodiak despite the increased cost.

    I never could figure out how much I went through due to a lack of a sight tube or way to dip the tank ( fill hole went in a 90 fitting and always collected fuel in the bottom) 10 gal plus what ever was in there worked for a week for us.

  7. #7
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    You have to watch what you are calling diesel, heating oil, stove oil, kerosene, jet A etc are all diesel There are two basic grades #1 and #2 of diesel. #2 products have parafin in them to increase the btu rating but makes them burn dirtier. #1 products Don't have the parafin. #1 has several common names Stove oil, kerosene, Jet A, #1 diesel and others. #2 also has more than one name Furnace oil, #2 diesel, #2 fuel oil and others. Most gas stations in Ak sell #2 diesel at the pump in the summer months and #1 in the winter as #2 gels at a higher temp than #1. So basically, use #1 diesel, stove oil, kerosene or jet A in the cabin type oil stoves. Jet A and kerosene are both cleaned up versions of #1 so they are even better. If you are buying diesel at the pump make sure it is #1

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    Guys, I dont want to get into it with anyone but unless for some very strange reason your fuel standards are different up there than the lower 48, a couple of corrections are needed. #2 diesel and #2 furnace oil are the same except diesel may or may not have additives for sulfer, winter viscosity etc. #1 diesel and #1 furnace oil are the same thing. Kerosene is not #1, it is much thinner, but it is the same as jet fuel. The only difference, to be sold as jet fuel it must pass through more filters. When I hauled the stuff we could sell jet fuel in place of kerosene but never the reverse. When we would pick up fuel at the tank farm the manifest would have the weight of product per gal, viscocity and a number of things I have forgotten plus temp. Regardless of what some dealers that we hauled to told their customers, we could tell at a glance exactly what we had regardless of what different dealers and companies claimed it was. I have seen them pass off a product claiming it was something it was not, but every trucker knew exactly what he had on regardless what it was retailed as

  9. #9
    Member AKDoug's Avatar
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    To further add to the confusion. What you are now getting at the pump is ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel) and winter blend ULSD. Neither of which are the same as the diesel of the old days. We burn summer ULSD in heaters without the problems of the old #2 diesel. It burns much cleaner, but still not as clean as kerosene. At about 15F the new ULSD will still cause gelling problems.

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