Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 28

Thread: .375 H&H Rifle

  1. #1

    Default .375 H&H Rifle

    I'm a lefty and want to purchase a .375 H&H rifle. I have more or less narrowed it down to the Browning A-Bolt Stainless Steel Stalker in the left-hand model. I own a .338 Mag. in the exact same model so I know what to expect for the most part. I want the .375 H&H to have a good set of iron sights. The Browning A-Bolt in .375 H&H does come with iron sights, but I don't know of what quality. Is anyone familiar with this rifle and can they give me any helpful information regarding the sights found on it? I plan to sight in the rifle with the iron sights, and then use Warne bases and rings to mount a Leupold VX 2 in 3-9X40. The rifle would primarily be used for brown bear hunting, and I would probably use a set of quick detaching scope rings so that I could easily remove the scope to use the iron sights if I had scope problems. Does anyone have a similar setup with a .375 and quick detach scope rings? If so can you let me know how it works for you, does it reliably hold a zero? Any advice regarding this possible rifle setup would be appreciated. Does anyone have a better recommendation for a left-handed .375 H&H? Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,568

    Default

    Have you given any thought to a Ruger African .375? They run about $875 and have iron sights but they are not made in stainless. The Ruger .375 offers a small power increase if that is important to you and also comes with factory rings.

  3. #3

    Default

    If you are using it for brownies, I would really feel better with a mauser action like the Ruger. Rings will be stronger as well.

  4. #4
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    4,431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    Have you given any thought to a Ruger African .375? They run about $875 and have iron sights but they are not made in stainless. The Ruger .375 offers a small power increase if that is important to you and also comes with factory rings.
    Actually the Ruger is made in stainless and is or soon will be made in a lefty version. Col. Craig had one on display in a video. And I would agree with your assesment of the Mauser action of the Ruger vs the Browning. The Ruger is a far superior rifle from many angles than the A-bolt. The stainless version of the 375 Ruger is a 20" version but is fully capable of duplicating the H&H ballistics in that shorter package. You can get 2600 fps from a 20" barrel. The price would be about the same.

    ak hunter,

    I am at a loss as to why you would narrow it down to the A bolt? I understand the lefty requirement, but aren't there other makers of left hand bolt rifles? Do you consider the merits of each type of action or just the side the bolt is on and price? Just curious, thats all. No finer set of irons comes on any rifle than the Ruger 375 Hawkeye.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    3,568

    Default

    Murphy,
    Perhaps I am wrong but for us lefties Ruger only shows there 375 in the African version which is blued/walnut. Picked one up and handled it myself at Boondocks.

    The dist that Boondocks deals with keeps on telling me it will soon be in a lefty stainless but I been hearing this for about 6 months now and Ruger still does not show a SS lefty on there web site.

    When did you hear the stainless lefty version of the .375 will be produced? Or for that matter any SS lefty because I really like there new rifle!

  6. #6

    Default

    I feel that if CZ made a left handed magnum action, the market would be theres to rule. Man do I love my custom CZ 375 H&H. 260 Accubonds at 2750-2800 are the real deal.

  7. #7

    Default

    I've more or less "narrowed it down" to the A-Bolt because that is my only option. I have yet to find another manufacturer that turns out a left-hand all-weather .375 H&H with iron sights (or even without iron sights). I wish that the .375 Ruger M77 Hawkeye Alaskan model had a lefty option. Although, I own several Rugers and 'am not a fan of their scope rings which have failed me before (weaver or picatinny bases with good rings are better, and I could use such a set up on the A-Bolt). Also, even the new Ruger trigger is lacking when compared to the A-Bolt's. I have successfully hunted brown bears as well as some big black bears, with my A-Bolt .338 Mag and the push-feed action has worked perfectly. Does anyone know of any other makers of such a model (other than the Remington 700 Safari KS which costs over $2,500 as is still lacking)?

  8. #8
    Member Dan in Alaska's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    854

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ak hunter View Post
    Does anyone have a similar setup with a .375 and quick detach scope rings? If so can you let me know how it works for you, does it reliably hold a zero?
    I had Warne Maxima quick release bases/rings on my Savage .375. I shot a one-inch group at 100 yards, removing the scope between shots. They were very good at returning to zero, and I would hesitate to use them again.


    Quote Originally Posted by ak hunter View Post
    Any advice regarding this possible rifle setup would be appreciated. Does anyone have a better recommendation for a left-handed .375 H&H? Thanks for any help.
    You could build one. Find a stainless left-hand Remington 700 in any magnum caliber, and have it rebarreled.

    I am about to do that very thing, myself, with a right handed .300 Win Mag. A rebarrel job, including the barrel, will cost me about $350.

  9. #9
    Member Dan in Alaska's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    854

    Default

    I forgot to mention that a gunsmith shouldn't have any trouble installing a set of iron sigths, after the rebarrel job. You'd be able to pick just about any type of sights you'd like.

  10. #10
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southwest Alaska
    Posts
    985

    Default MRC 1999 LH SS 375 barreled action

    Montana Rifle Company has a 416R stainless steel left handed barreled action advertised on their website for either a 375 Ruger, H&H, or Weatherby. Magazine options available are 3.400", 3.650" or 3.650" ultra. Barrel contours go as low as a #4. Barrel length up to 26" finished, also customers choice on crown. Model: CSLM, Price: $1,092.00

  11. #11
    Moderator hunt_ak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Wasilla--Cantwell Transplant
    Posts
    4,600

    Default

    No sako 85's in lefty yet, huh? Too bad the Ruger couldn't just be reamed out to go H&H.

    Snowwolfe, any word yet?

    This is quite a dilemma for us leftys (or at least to me it is).

    Dilemma on metal/stock. Buddy is lefty and looking for a 375. All-weather is important, but IMO the browning would be a ways down the list of rifles I would want. He is looking for a rifle that will sometimes live on his boat out in the salt....I suggested he could have it coated, but going stainless would be nice.

    Dilemma on chambering also. Obvious first is availability for a non-handloader. Anyone else care to give a comparison or case for either(yeah, I did read the article below, but always like hearing other comparisons....Murph...Snowwolfe...)

    Good reading on the subject here:

    The 375 Ruger Story

    The 375 H&H vs. 375 Ruger Part I
    The 375 H&H vs. 375 Ruger Part II

    BTW, sorry for the dig...

  12. #12
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Conus
    Posts
    28

    Default AK Hunter

    You could always get the .375 African left hand and have one of the new "high tech" weather resistant finishes applied and even add a synthetic or Hogue stock and you'd be good to go IMO!

    I just bought a .375 Ruger Alaskan in stainless and love it! The iron sights are right on at both 50 and 100 yards and are the best iron sights I've ever used. This rifle is very accurate and I was quite surprised on how manageable the recoil is. Also, the trigger on my Alaskan is very smooth and is perfect IMO for a dangerous game rifle.

    I have purchased a set of Warne QD's and will put either a Leupold 1.5x5 or a 1.75x6 scope on it when I figure out which one will work best for me.

    I'd say the one advantage to an H&H right now would be the availability of factory ammo. Although, Hornady is doing a pretty good job of making their .375 Ruger available at different stores, I'd like to see other companies like Federal, as one example, offer this caliber too. I do reload FWIW but would like to see more offerings to eliminate any ammo issues when traveling.

    One certainly can't complain about the price of the Alaskan line either compared to the H&H rifles as you get a lot of bang for your buck!
    NRA Life Member

  13. #13
    Member BrettAKSCI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,624

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Snowwolfe View Post
    Have you given any thought to a Ruger African .375? They run about $875 and have iron sights but they are not made in stainless. The Ruger .375 offers a small power increase if that is important to you and also comes with factory rings.
    This is an outstanding rifle. I'm actually in the process of selling my remington 700 in .375 H&H so I can buy this rifle. The only down fall is that it's .375 Ruger and not H&H. I handload, so that's not a problem. It you don't handload then I wouldn't be too crazy about the cartrige. I've already bought the Warne QDs for it witht he same idea as you. I would also consider teflon coating it. Since mine will likely see more time in Africa than here in Alaska I may not coat mine. We'll see. The sites are outstandingly fast. The rifle happens to fit me like a glove. I can close my eyes and bring the rifle to my shoulder and it's dead on.

    I do have some critiques that I will have custom work done on it to "fix". The trigger is so-so (but then again how many factory rifles have great triggers?). I'll spend $50-70 on a trigger job. The safety is 3 position which I prefer, but the problem is in the rear position the safety is difficult to get a hold of. I will either have a piece added to it to make it more substancial or have a new safety machined $50-100. The recoil pad is fair at best. I will wait to see how it shoots before I mess with the recoil pad since it fits me so well. If I do replace it I'll likely add a limbsaver recoil pad $60-70.

    It's pretty hard to find a factory rifle that has it all for any given person's body type and taste. I've never had a rifle that wasn't either custom or factory and customized to some degree, so I think the gunsmith is vital unless your willing to throw down for a custom rifle.

    Brett

  14. #14
    Member BrettAKSCI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,624

    Default

    "You could always get the .375 African left hand and have one of the new "high tech" weather resistant finishes applied and even add a synthetic or Hogue stock and you'd be good to go IMO!"

    +1 or Have the action glass bedded and make darn sure the barrel floats comfortably. I think this is a much better option than settling on the rifle itself. Also I don't know if they come in wrong handed, but the Kimber Talkeetna is a great out of the box rifle in ss. It doesn't fit me at all, but it's a great rifle.

    Brett

  15. #15
    Member marshall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Near Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    1,814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brett Adam Barringer View Post

    The safety is 3 position which I prefer, but the problem is in the rear position the safety is difficult to get a hold of. I will either have a piece added to it to make it more substancial or have a new safety machined $50-100.

    Brett

    Assuming we're on the same page:

    Position 1 is off, 2 is on and 3 is on with bolt locked.

    Position 2 is a user friendly location. Bolt can be operated for loading with trigger in safe mode. Safety can be moved to position 1 with ease for fast use.

    Position 3 is some what hard to release in a hurry and prevents bolt operation.

    In my opinion there are better ways to spend money than adding metal to your factory safety tang for easier position 3 operation.

  16. #16
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southwest Alaska
    Posts
    985

    Default LH SS 375 Ruger

    If you are looking for a Ruger Hawkeye left handed stainless rifle in caliber 375 Ruger, just this morning I happened to come across a few listings on these 3 sites, same Dealer for all 3.
    Good luck with your search.

    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=133365199
    and http://www.gunsamerica.com/981409891...s_1_of_100.htm and lastly here: http://www.gunsinternational.com/Rug...n_id=100073695

  17. #17
    Member marshall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Near Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    1,814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nukalpiaq View Post
    If you are looking for a Ruger Hawkeye left handed stainless rifle in caliber 375 Ruger, just this morning I happened to come across a few listings on these 3 sites, same Dealer for all 3.
    Good luck with your search.

    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=133365199
    and http://www.gunsamerica.com/981409891...s_1_of_100.htm and lastly here: http://www.gunsinternational.com/Rug...n_id=100073695
    Good work finding those rifles. It's a bummer that they put a wood stock on a 20" Alaskan model but it sure looks nice in the dark laminate. Should make a lefty very happy.

  18. #18
    Member BrettAKSCI's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Anchorage
    Posts
    1,624

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marshall View Post
    Assuming we're on the same page:

    Position 1 is off, 2 is on and 3 is on with bolt locked.

    Position 2 is a user friendly location. Bolt can be operated for loading with trigger in safe mode. Safety can be moved to position 1 with ease for fast use.

    Position 3 is some what hard to release in a hurry and prevents bolt operation.

    In my opinion there are better ways to spend money than adding metal to your factory safety tang for easier position 3 operation.
    We are in fact on the same page. I would agree with you 110% if it weren't destined for dangerous game use. The fact of the matter is that that rifle will likely see more time on dangerous game hunts and dangerous game hunts in African than for anything or anywhere else. I have other rifles with 3 position safeties and generally I walk/stalk with a catrige in the chamber and the safety in the rear 3rd position for a variety of reasons including the bolt handle being locked and the saftey being harder to accidentley knock off. That's why I would like a fast operating safety in the third position. Fumbling with the safety could cost me the difference between one shot and two which on non dangerous animals might not be a huge deal, but with dangerous animals, could mean a close call or unneccesary worry. I love the rifle, it fits me perfectly, and the sites are ridiculously fast. The problems I have with it are easy fixes and I see no reason not to fix them just to save a few bucks. I end up with a customized rifle with all the ammenities I'm looking for in a rifle. My only compromise is that it's Ruger instead of H&H.

    Brett

  19. #19
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southwest Alaska
    Posts
    985

    Default

    Yes the black/gray laminate stock on this particular Ruger does look kinda nice. Just out of curiousity; Anyone know if Winchester ever manufactured a left handed stainless rifle in either 375 H&H or 300 Weatherby? Thanks

  20. #20
    Member marshall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Near Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    1,814

    Default

    Brett,

    I love my Rugers. I agree that they can be knocked to position 1.

    When I get a new Ruger or a friends to play with I put valve lapping compound on the safety between it and the retaining piece and work it about a hundred times. Then clean and lube so that it works very smooth. Don't remove material between the safety and the trigger.

    This step may help you with your position 3 dilemma.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •