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Thread: *** NEW Boat Owner Winterizing Questions*** ( help please)

  1. #1
    Member powderhound's Avatar
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    Question *** NEW Boat Owner Winterizing Questions*** ( help please)

    Well this was my first summer on the water with my own boat. Everything went alright, but now is the time to start getting the boat ready for winter. I have an 01 Eagle Maring 22' Aluminum Inboard Jet with a 350. What is the steps and the process I need to do to winterize my boat? I am sure I need to drain the water out of the system, how do I do that? Obiously need to add some stabilizer the the fuel system. Other than that, what else? I am really concerned about getting all of the water out of the system, I have no idea how!
    My other question is, this boat is a soft top. I am considering getting it recovered. Who has the best price and offers good quality? What kind of price can I expect to pay to get something like that done? Need to start saving up now!


  2. #2

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    I follow Gary W's advice on this thread; he's been running the same boat for 20+ years, so he must be doing something right. His process has worked great for me so far! Here's the link: http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/...ight=winterize

    When I drain the water, I just unhook the hoses from the water side, pull the plugs and open the drains on the exhaust manifolds and drain the heat exchanger. I put a can of Sea Foam in each gas tank and fill each tank to the brim. Follow the rest of Gary's advice and your boat will be ready to rock in the spring! I also tape a trash bag over the jet to keep any snow from blowing in there -- I don't know if that is necessary but my thought is that the snow in the jet could melt and refreeze and crack something.

  3. #3

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    For your new boat top check out Buster's here in Anchorage. Had Willey do mine and he did an amazing job. If you book at the boat show in Feb you'll get a discount. He books up fast so book early.

  4. #4
    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by powderhound View Post
    Well this was my first summer on the water with my own boat. Everything went alright, but now is the time to start getting the boat ready for winter. I have an 01 Eagle Maring 22' Aluminum Inboard Jet with a 350. What is the steps and the process I need to do to winterize my boat? I am sure I need to drain the water out of the system, how do I do that? Obiously need to add some stabilizer the the fuel system. Other than that, what else? I am really concerned about getting all of the water out of the system, I have no idea how!
    My other question is, this boat is a soft top. I am considering getting it recovered. Who has the best price and offers good quality? What kind of price can I expect to pay to get something like that done? Need to start saving up now!

    What I use to do with mine and still do to others and have had no issues.........take it to the lake one last time, run at least a 20:1 two stroke mixture carbed or injected thru the motor, then shut it down. You can run it until dry or leave the fuel as is.

    Now take it home.....

    If carbed spary a good metal protector(Amsoil metal protector or equilivalant) on all the moving pieces of the carb/linkages or throttle plates/linkages on an injected motor. Now is a good time to spray the metal protectant on all your exposed nuts and bolts and any other metal pieces to keep from corroding(unless you are going to repaint).

    I personally like to push a little RV antifreeze thru the system just in case I don't get all the water out. Just remove the raw water hose off the jet and use your garden sprayer (clean) to push the RV anti freeze thru the system till you see it drip out the exhaust. After that, open your sandtrap and drain, replace hose to jet. Next spring put it back in the water ready to go no need to flush before use. The RV antifreeze also contains a rust inhibitor. Just ensure the nose of the boat is higher the the stren so as not to flood the manifolds.

    I remove my freshwater exchanger ends every two years to check for corrision/replace anodes. Also a good time to check belts and anything else external. I do not recommend changing the oil till spring just in case you might get condensation in the block. I always try to run the engine on the old oil before changing come spring time.

  5. #5

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    I have a stern drive and not a jet, but Spinner pretty much says what I'd say. I have always heard to change the engine oil before layup because acids can build up in the oil over time and it's best to not let it sit in the engine over winter. I would also change the oil filter at the same time, plus any fuel filters. I check the antifreeze in my heat exchanger to make sure it's strong enough for the winter. I take the end caps off about once every two years and clean the tubes, but every year I replace the anode because it corrodes down to almost nothing with a year's use. If you run any RV antifreeze through your engine, make sure it says it contains corrosive inhibitors. I think RV is more for plumbing like PVC. West Marine has marine antifreeze ($4.99/gal for -50 degree protection) that states that it contains corrosive inhibitors. Corrosion X is a real good product for spraying down the engine. You can get it at Polar Wire and probably other places. Top off the fuel tank to keep condensation down in the tank (and not a bad investment considering rising fuel prices).

    Do all this but still keep researching what to do and how to do it. Winterizing an expensive engine the wrong way will come back to bite you big time come spring.
    Last edited by skydiver; 09-23-2008 at 17:37. Reason: Because I can

  6. #6

    Default Trailer too

    Also, don't forget about your trailer bearings. I pull the buddy bearings off to make sure there is no water remaining inside the housing. I didn't check them until spring one year and opened it up to find water had sat in there all winter and of course they were rusted up. Once drained and checked, put the buddy bearing back on and give it a couple of squirts of grease so it is packed a ready for spring.

  7. #7

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    Good point about the trailer. I always grease my drive line, too. Lots of good advice here!

  8. #8

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    Any ideas about tires? Last winter I had a tire crack and go flat. Does anyone pull their tires or cover them up? Was wondering about jacking up the trailer and setting on blocks to get the tires off the ground.

  9. #9
    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
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    I put both my trailers on jack stands over the winter. But mine are stored inside on a heated floor It's not a bad idea. Helps.......

  10. #10
    Member KenaiFly's Avatar
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    Default Change Oil !!!

    Get rid of the oil you used for this last season, and do the filter/oil change before winter. New oil in the block will not cause problems during storage, but used oil can.

    I usually do the fuel treatment, run and flush, pull plugs and fog cylinders, change oil and filters, pour anti-freeze through raw water cooling side until it comes out the exhaust, then open all petcocks and drains on raw water side....drink another beer and tell fish stories...gotta go do the swedish twins now...(they're volvo's)

  11. #11

    Default Excellent INFO

    I put trailer up on blocks! Pump new grease into bearings after it's in the air while spinning the tire! Drain the oil and run a quart of new light weight thu it! Re-fill come spring! Add fuel stabilizer. Take LCD screens out, GPS, Radio along with handheld electronics.
    But my biggest thing is running RV Anti-freeze thru Engine. Got a big bucket set up with a bilge pump that I hook up to the outdrive intake cups and run it up to 180 degrees and shut it down. That way I have displaced all the water with RV. I have a tarp that catches all the RV back into the bucket and I save it all to use next year.
    Not sure if cutting off the fuel is best or leaving fuel in there to keep gaskets from drying up? I leave fuel in!

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