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Thread: New dies argghhh

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    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    Default New dies argghhh

    I have only ever owned three sets of Redding dies and two have given me fits.

    I just bought a set of Redding 375 H-H dies. When I go to run the new brass the case goes in just fine and easy like it should but when it comes out it is like the expander button is going to rip the neck off.

    I have a set of 270 win dies that did the same thing. With the 270 dies I just took the button out of it and replaced it with a 22 cal button.

    The Redding die set that I love is a deluxe set with the neck sizer and FL sizer in 300 WSM. I have had zero problems with that set.

    Any suggestions?

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    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMiller View Post
    I have only ever owned three sets of Redding dies and two have given me fits.

    I just bought a set of Redding 375 H-H dies. When I go to run the new brass the case goes in just fine and easy like it should but when it comes out it is like the expander button is going to rip the neck off.

    I have a set of 270 win dies that did the same thing. With the 270 dies I just took the button out of it and replaced it with a 22 cal button.

    The Redding die set that I love is a deluxe set with the neck sizer and FL sizer in 300 WSM. I have had zero problems with that set.

    Any suggestions?

    Yeah buddy. Lube the inside of the necks! Do not pass go until you try this and run a few case. Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. Use a small brush and a little dry powder lube or just stick the case in the powder up to the shoulder.

    That is your problem, there is your fix. Or you can shoot the wad and buy a carbide expander button and not worry about this problem ever again. I suggest you just inside lube the necks. The first time you do this little trick, I want to know how big the smile was on your face?

    P.S. I have this big old can of powder graphite in the shop, a couple of tablespoons full in and empty baby food jar is a life time supply.
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    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    Al beat me too it. You can polish the expander button which makes it a bit smoother, but you still need to lube the neck.

    Also I think of the std die sets, redding are about as good as it gets. Oh, they don't have a lube relief hole so make sure you don't overlube the cases as you'll get dents on the shoulders.

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    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    I did polish the expander button a bit.

    Also what seems to work well is to use a case neck brush. I was a ble to get the rest of my cases done just by using the brush.

    I bought some Imperial die wax and put a tiny bit on the brush but am not sure how well that actually worked. I ran the brush one time through each case after rolling it lightly ion the die wax. Then I ran the brush through each case 10 times.

    I forgot all about the case next brushing. I have to run a brush though all the case necks before resizing any of my bottleneck brass.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

  5. #5

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    I use Hornady One Shot spray lube, and I spray down at the cases at about a 45 degree angle. That allows enough lube to get into the case mouth and neck to avoid the problem.

    Tumbling the cases for an hour or so after sizing removes the lube, including what may be inside the neck.

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    One simple way to make all resizing go smoother is to clean the cases. I use corn cob media which has what is essentially car polish in it and tumbling the cases not only cleans the outside but the carbon fouling inside the neck. The polishing media leaves a small amount of this car polish inside the neck and that is actually enough dry lube to stop the expander chatter and binding. I much prefer this over the walnut hulls and jewelers rough because the rough must be cleaned off before sizing and can't really be cleaned form inside the case completely.

    Another aid in inside cleaning is simplyu to just brush the inside with any of the various brands of neck brushes. This cleans out that cabon and crud better than anything else.

    Other than that, the dry mica or graphite neck lube is great and the carbide expanders help a lot and are less stressful on the brass.
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    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    If you have one of the battery powered screwdrivers laying around and a drill chuck for it, mount a neck brush in the drill chuck and have at your brass. Makes fast work of the necks and is kind of fun to do before you throw a charge/seat a bullet.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
    If you have one of the battery powered screwdrivers laying around and a drill chuck for it, mount a neck brush in the drill chuck and have at your brass. Makes fast work of the necks and is kind of fun to do before you throw a charge/seat a bullet.

    Now your talking.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

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    Quote Originally Posted by RMiller View Post
    Now your talking.
    The brush in the cordless drill trick worked great. I dont know why I have not tried that before. I use the drill for trimming cases with my Lee case trimmers and chamfer the cases at the same time. I also use the drill to settle powder for compressed loads.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

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    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Have you tried a long drop tube from your powder measure and a slow pour? Or if you use a funnel only and drop, go slow on the pour. It gets the powder settled down better than any trick I've ever used. I have a drop tube for my Harrell measure that is three feet long, I had him make special for me.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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    I have not used a drop tube. I like to touch the full case rim to the chuck on the drill and the powder goes right down.

    I dont mess with compressed loads much because I think that if the bullet, powder, cartridge combo is not easy to do without a drop tube then I can find another powder which will be easier to use.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

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    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMiller View Post
    I have not used a drop tube. I like to touch the full case rim to the chuck on the drill and the powder goes right down.

    I dont mess with compressed loads much because I think that if the bullet, powder, cartridge combo is not easy to do without a drop tube then I can find another powder which will be easier to use.
    It's not a compressed load until you fill the case up and seat a bullet. That's the purpose of a long drop tube. It is easy to see, if you had a long drop tube. Fill the case all the way to the top. Dump the charge, using a long drop tube, re-fill the case using the method I described above. Presto, no longer a full case and when you seat a bullet no longer a compressed load.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

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    Member RMiller's Avatar
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    Now your gonna make me say it. I would probably poke my eye out with the tube.

    For now I dont have any compressed loads to try. My H4350 load with the 160 GS Custom bullets need settling but the drill trick does it well enough. Actually the drill is very impressive, the powder goes right down. This load was a stand alone powder that gave a much higher velocity than the other powders I had tried. I usually will get two powders that I pick from out of four tried. I may try a drop tube with this one.

    When I get a couple powders that give me the velocity I am looking for I always pick the one that uses the least powder so that is why I never end up with compressed loads or loads that need settling.
    "You have given out too much reputation in the last 24 hours, try again later".

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