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Thread: My Scope Rings Damage my Scope

  1. #1

    Default My Scope Rings Damage my Scope

    I have a Ruger Mark II .300wm with 1" rings with a 3-9x40 Nikon Buckmasters Scope thats supposedly a 1" tube. However, my scope rings keep digging into the finish of the scope and seems like its stripping the finish off. Is this normal?

    They are the rings that came with the rifle.

  2. #2
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    Interesting problem. First thing I am wondering is why do you keep on removing the scope from the rings?

    It is common for any scope to have marks on the tube after being installed in a set of rings. Not commom for the finish of the scope to be deeply scratched unless you are putting pressure on the rings and then trying to move the scope around to set eye relief, etc.

  3. #3
    Member hodgeman's Avatar
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    If you lap those rings it will have less detriment to your scopes finish. Several good threads on this site in the past. Ruger rings are cast and tend to not have tight tolerances on the spool and parallel faces. A few minutes with a lap bar cleans them right up.

    FWIW I seldom ever remove a scope once its installed and view it as more or less permanent. Only time I've removed a scope is to torque the base mounting screws or to replace it with something better.

  4. #4
    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Lap the rings as mentioned. This is also ideal to do if you want the gun to be accurate. Helpful in holding zero too. I would not mount a scope to a gun without lapping the rings. Simple to do and the benefits are many. Midway has a good kit for around $40. Also consider using a torque wrench to tighten them down. Brownells has a nice (small) torque wrench for this (and other) purposes. Be sure to order the right lapping kit. They come in 30 mm and 1". As for the torque wrench, they measure inch/lbs and you can get the suggested torque from the manufacturer of the rings. It should be printed on the paper with the rings/bases though. It is good to torque them to the correct inch/lbs a few times a year. Especially if shooting big hitters like 300 Weatherby and up.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/S...nt%20Instr.pdf

    http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=879712

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...l.aspx?p=18221
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

  5. #5
    Member Big Al's Avatar
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    This is why the best rings I've ever dealt with where the rings that MAYNARD BUHLER made. These rings allowed for the differences in tube size variations by using measurements of the rings and the use of shim stock between the rings and the measuring the separation at the bottom of the ring.

    The idea of lapping rings has vary little merit here with the integral base on a Ruger rifle. What you folks are referring to doing is fine if the bore and the receiver are in alignment, the ring are properly bored and the caps of the rings are numbered to match the ring bases.

    What you might want to consider is using instead a gap gage to tighten the rings to, so both sides are equally the same. The other thing to do is use powdered rosin on the rings bearing surface, so that you do not need to over tighten the rings. I would not consider lapping unless I was assured that the rings were bored to the correct size first with the caps screwed down tight and the holes were in alignment both front and back and then I would bore or align hone the rings. This would have to be done on the rifle, and in alignment with the bore. Does any of this sound like the kind of equipment found in your shop?

    Another little item that needs to be mentioned is the scope must be at the optical center. The purpose of all of this is first to get you in alignment with the bore and the second is to give you all the adjustments you can get from the scope for windage and elevation.

    I know that these lapping kits are available but to what purpose unless you have the equipment to get all the rest of this mess together?

    This is all a neat idea, but the fact remains you are still dealing with integral bases, so use the methods I describe above, sometimes you have just got to cheat these things to get them to work.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tryants." (Thomas Jefferson

  6. #6
    Member Ripper's Avatar
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    He hasn't said he is taking the scope off to see the scratches. Perhaps the rings aren't tight enough and the scope is moving due to recoil and scratching the finish as it moves? Just an idea...

  7. #7
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I've mounted scopes on several ruger rifles and handguns with the ruger rings, and have never had a problem damaging scopes with the rings.

  8. #8

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    This is actually the second scope that has been damaged by these rings. I could attest that it may have been that I overtightened since I really didnt know there was a torque value. I simply thought the rings would clamp down fully nice and tight but they didnt. I will definately look into it more and BigAl thanks for the info .

    I knew I had to have been messing something up because my scope does tend to move a bit. I suppose I subject my scope to quite a bit more thumpings then just regular sighting in or something. Its something I shoot on a regular basis.

    Oh yeah I have taken both scopes off and it looks like on the bottom its dug into the finish and pushing it rearward towards the bolt. You would think it would be the opposite. I am going to take it off and start figuring it out...maybe take it to a shop and make sure im doing things right. Its my first hunting rifle and I jumped right in with the big stuff. lol

  9. #9

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    Lapping is probably the best solution. Those stick-on address labels, I keep getting thousands of, also help if you put one on both top and bottom ring pieces.

    Mike

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