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Thread: Spitting Lead

  1. #1

    Default Spitting Lead

    I've got a 4 inch S&W Mod. 29 that spits lead pretty bad - enough to bloody my cheek. I've used a Brownell's range rod to check the timing.The lockup seems prefect and I am at loss to understand why it spits. Does anybody have a cure for this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008


    recieving cone might need polished a little. try jacked rounds and see if it stops.

  3. #3


    I know of one incident a few years back when a revolver (not a Smith) snuck all the way through production and inspection with NO forcing cone. If yours does in fact have a forcing cone, I'm not sure why it would be spitting, but a polish wouldn't hurt. I also can't imagine how you got your cheek leaded!!!!

  4. #4
    Member Float Pilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Kachemak Bay Alaska


    I used to have an old 3.5 inch model 27 S&W that shot great for years and then started to spit lead.

    I took it took a guy named Fran Moore who used to have a shop near Soldotna years ago and he re-ground the forcing cone to a new angle.

    The gun stopped spitting lead and it was suddenly much more accurate.
    Floatplane,Tailwheel and Firearms Instructor- Dragonfly Aero
    Experimental Hand-Loader, NRA Life Member

  5. #5

    Default timing

    Does it do it more in double action or single? Usually spitting lead hits something to either side of the firearm. Have you been shooting heavy bear loads in the gun? How many rounds been through it?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Northern Rockies


    Timing is more than the ability to slide the range rod in.

    Sounds like you may have a timing problem. Cock the gun v e r y s l o w l y. Did it come completely into the locked position, or can you turn the cylinder slightly to make it come into full lockup? (you can hear the locking bolt click into place when you manually turn it after cocking if it wasn't indexing fully) Check all six chambers. Do it again. Try a very slight drag on the cylinder with a finger and do it again. Try it double action, cycling the action very slowly. Smiths (or all guns) in time can wear, and one or two chambers can fail to come into proper alignment, particularly when it's cold or the gun is dirty. You may not notice it when you cock the gun quickly, but it should, properly operating, come positively into locking alignment, even with some resistance. Some claim the gun "is fine" and continue to use it when it's not indexing properly, saying it comes into index by momentum, but it ISN'T right, because the cylinder isnt aligning properly every time, and causes spitting. It should positively index, even with some resistance.

    To check alignment, on Smiths with hammer mounted firing pins, cock the gun, point toward a decdent light source, and look by both sides of the hammer thru the firing pin hole in the frame, you can see the actual aligment of the chamber throats with the bore. Pay attention to wether each side is a land or groove, as it can make it look out of alignment when its not, but if you pay attention when doing it, you can tell the difference. Check all six chambers. Often one or two will be slightly different, but if the gun comes into positive lockup, it shouldnt be a problem.

    Some guns can benefit from a forcing come ream, the last point being one of those cases, but if the gun worked right to begin with, it is probably another issue thats causing the problem. I'd check indexing timing first.


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