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Thread: bear fences

  1. #1
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    Default bear fences

    I drew a Kenai moose tag - 536 and it looks like I'm going to go in along the lake. Spoke to one of the bios & he said "Lots of bears, in there."
    So, can anyone point me to a electric fence rental?
    thanks
    Gary

  2. #2
    Member algonquin's Avatar
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    Default bear fence

    Try going on line to the tractor supply store and just buy one for around a $100.00. The rent would be close to that. good luck on the hunt

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    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    Default

    check the archives - popular subject in the past - lots of info from purchase to make your own

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    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Default bear fence...

    I just got one myself. We float NW Alaska rivers in the Fall. Finally had to break down get a fence. Bears in camp on the last two float trips. It weighs 4 lbs and fits in its own bag that is about the size of a 2L soda bottle. I ordered a spare corner rod and the voltage tester. Pretty impressive set up. And takes up little weight/space.

    Below is a link...

    http://www.udap.com/bearshock.htm
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

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    Member Casper50's Avatar
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    Default

    I've had one for 2 years now. The biggest thing that I've learned is that D cell batterys don't have the juice. I can grab it and hang on to it. I've started using a small 12 volt battery.

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    Default renting?

    A guy can build a fence for $100-150... Hardly worth renting... The only rental I've seen will surpase that in less than a week.

    One bit of advice... Electric fences are ONLY as good as their "ground"... And yes the dirt in which the fence is erected has a direct relation to it's effectiveness. If a fence is in dry sand, rocks or glacier silt you'll likely have very little success in using a grounding rod. Some of the best soil in the world in which to ground the system is in your front yard. HI levels of moister in densly packed top soil...

    Anyway...

    There are fence controllers that run on AA batterys, 9 volt batterys, D cell batterys, 6 volt batterys and 12 volt batterys... A volt is a volt and a joule is a joule... MOST if not all controllers have the ability to deliver a shock quite "effective" enough. It all depends on the "ground" in which the system is using.

    I've touched my fence too... It tingled a little but that was it... The wicking sock liners, thick wool socks and hunting boots I wore had a lot to do with that... Later that same day after working up a sweat wearing only my wet tennis shoes I touched the same fence... WOW... D cell batteries with the right ground can knock your socks off...

    Agreed that 4 D cell batteries @ 1.5 volts each only = 6 volts. My controller will produce 5000-7000 volts using 4 D cell batteries @ 6 volts. Bump that up to any 12 volt souce and I'm pushing a solid 8000 - plus volts... (My meter only reads up to 8000)

    So my point with this was not to hi jack but to emphasize that more voltage does equal higher output but only slightly more... The real advantage to a 12 volt battery is the longevity. My controller will run 2-3 weeks on D-cells vs. months on a 12 volt system.

    Furthermore, no matter what system you use a proper ground is essential.

  7. #7
    Member Casper50's Avatar
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    Winmag the ground was wet topsoil when I grabbed it. There were still patchs of melting snow. The charge was so weak that I couldn't get a reading on my meter hooked to the + & - terminals.

  8. #8

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    Run a positive and negative wire a couple inches from each other and then you dont have to worry about the ground. The ground is the toughest part of the equation in getting these things to work right. We used one on the Pen in the spring and the ground was too frozen to provide a good ground so we set it up so that a bear would contact the pos and neg wire and he'd be the ground, try grabbing the wires set up in that fashion!

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    Default thanks

    for the replies.
    Gary

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    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Default good info...

    Winmag,

    Good points on the grounding. It was a big concern of mine as well. I talked to the guy at www.electobearguard.com (Alaska Co.) many times but could not justify the "net" fence that does not require a ground. It weighs almost 30 lbs. As for the UDAP kit, I was told by the manufacturer that if a poor ground (gravel etc..) was a problem, the shock would still be given when the second wire was touched. My thought is that of the three wires on the UDAP kit, it would be very hard for a bear to walk through it without hitting two of them. The 4 lb kit and small pack size sold me. We will see how well it works in about 6 weeks. Well, actually, I hope we don't. But you get the point.
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

  11. #11
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    Default interesting...

    Quote Originally Posted by Casper50 View Post
    Winmag the ground was wet topsoil when I grabbed it. There were still patchs of melting snow. The charge was so weak that I couldn't get a reading on my meter hooked to the + & - terminals.
    Interesting... could be the controller. Best part is you got her working.

    I also ran into issues in the Spring... Often the snow will melt but even an inch or so down the the ground is still frozen. You are correct though, hooking the meter straight to +/- will tell you what the best case scenario would be...

    Gary, I got my stuff at the Fence Emporium in Palmer... I've also seen some stuff at AK mill and feed in Anchorage... Wiggy's on Old Seward (Anchorage) sells a spendy but compact unit. good luck

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    Default AK Cub is right on.

    Quote Originally Posted by AlaskaCub View Post
    Run a positive and negative wire a couple inches from each other and then you dont have to worry about the ground. The ground is the toughest part of the equation in getting these things to work right. We used one on the Pen in the spring and the ground was too frozen to provide a good ground so we set it up so that a bear would contact the pos and neg wire and he'd be the ground, try grabbing the wires set up in that fashion!
    AlaskaCub is exactly right... I run both a ground rod and an alternating system. Alternating meaning a positive line followed by a negative line. Granted the animal will have to touch both lines for a shock but it will be a FULL voltage shock. The grounding rod is just insurance and/or redundancy.

    I'll look for the links on other posts about fences...

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    Default

    To answer the question, Wiggy's Alaska has a couple for rent and for sale. 336-1330. Although I also agree that buying one is cheaper in the long run, if you are only going to need it once renting may be the way to go.

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    Default thanks

    for all the info. I'm looking into getting my own fence.
    Gary

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