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Thread: stock refinishing

  1. #1
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    Default stock refinishing

    Does anyone out there know of a place to get my ruger m77 stock refinished? It is in fairly good shape with only a few scratches just needs some light sanding and finish. I would take it to wild west guns but I can get a brand new stock for what they charge. I would rather have one of you do it in your garage than give all my money away to some of these gunsmiths around town. I would do it but I live in an apartment. You can call me if interested. 929-7957

  2. #2
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    The problem with refinishing a stock properly, is it is very labor intensive. Honestly a new factory stock produced in an assebly line will be cheaper than the labour to re-finish.

    IMO, you'd be better off investing a beater composite stock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul H
    The problem with refinishing a stock properly, is it is very labor intensive. Honestly a new factory stock produced in an assebly line will be cheaper than the labour to re-finish.

    IMO, you'd be better off investing a beater composite stock.
    Thanks Paul

  4. #4
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    Default Git-R-Done

    Just do it in your apartment. I use to saw/grind animals skulls in my apartment for plaque mounts. Just hand sand it lightly with a block. Use 400 then 600 grit. Get all the dust off and finish it. Hang on a coat hanger to dry. If your your looking for a more elaborate hand rubbed linseed finish then I would look elsewhere. If the scratches are light, just spray it with birchwwod casey Tru-oil. Stuff is relly good. Brownells has some nice finishes.

  5. #5
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    Birchwood sells a kit to refinish stocks and its actually pretty good for what you want to do. I did mine, getting the old finish off with fine steel wool and sanding out dings. Its doesn't really take that long, you should consider doing it yourself.

  6. #6
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    colsen, I just began in the recent past to refinish a few odd details to a few rifles in my own home. Redone a few light colored walnut stocks that had the old red stain, nicks, scrathes, you name it. Most of your concentrated efforts will pretty much be kept in the area you are working in. It is as Paul mentioned "labor intensive" and it would really get expensive to have someone put the "love" into your rifle. Do it yourself, you can do it!

    have fun.

  7. #7
    Member stevelyn's Avatar
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    Believe it or not this is a project you can do yourself. Just take the stock off the gun and remove the butt pad and grip-cap. Sand it lightly with 150 grit to get the finsh off and then use fine grit to smoothen up the surface. Using a a product like Zip Strip can speed up the removal of the old finish and eliminate a lot of sanding.
    Take care not to remove too much wood or to remove it unevenly. You also want to be careful about rounding off squared edges.
    Most dents and dings can be raised by steaming them. This also raises whiskers that need to be sanded or steel wooled smooth again. Don't worry about all the dents and dings as they tend to add character to refinished stocks.
    If your stock happens to be oil-soaked from years of gun oil, you can heat the stock up to about 150 F and absorb the oil in a paper towel as it "weeps" out. This may take a few sessions.
    When the wood is ready for refinishing, you can stain it any color you want with a water based stain and then apply your actual finish.
    I use boiled linseed oil, but there are products like tung oil or Linspeed from Brownell's you can use.
    Now what ?

  8. #8
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    The problem I think I am going to run into is the grip areas. Am I supposed to use a dremel or pic to remove the finish from this part of the stock or do I leave it alone?

  9. #9

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    I stripped off the factory finish from several Remington stocks a year or two back. I used acetone to get the poly finish off, then taped over all checkering with blue painters tape, and cut excess tape from the checkering border with an exacto razor knife. Sanding went very well starting with coarse and going to fine grades and steel wool. I was able to use an old steam iron to raise the few dents that were present. I then stained the bare wood, after getting it as clean as possible with damp paper towelling. I used just some minwax stain that looked good. Then I oiled the stocks using some artist quaility linseed oil.

    If you have the checkering taped off you won't have to worry about damaging your stock, unless you are using a power tool. I used a variety of shaped sanding blocks and my hands to sand with. It is a bit messy, but lots of fun!

    I have never cared for the phony look of the Remington xytel coating they put on their stocks. The ones I did look way better now.

    I have one Fajen pillar-bedded stock that I want to reshape the cheekpad on and maybe carve a schnabel fore-end on, but... I would also like to deepen the checkering. Lotsa time in the coming months.

    You could probably do your stock project in 3-4 days if you worked at it steadily. Its hardly worth the money to pay somebody to do this for you. Try Ebay and see if you can find a good deal on a replacement stock. You never know. If you like do-it-yourself projects, stock refinishing is pretty rewarding.

  10. #10
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    Default Stock refinishing

    I would suggest the Watco brand of wood finishes.... aftter the stock has had the old finish completely removed, follow the directions... Watco soaks into the wood sealing it.... one can put a linseed finish over it, but I think you will find this beautiful and utilitarian. It is so simple... one session.

  11. #11

    Default

    I refinish stocks quite a bit and what I do is use a striper like mentioned earlier, I only use sand paper in 220 grit and that is only to remove scratches otherwise I use steel wool to remove finish. I use a fine wire brush such as those used in gun cleaning kits to clean out the checkered areas. Wash it with a soapy warm water to remove dust and raise the grain rerub with the cleaned steel wool, let it dy then I will stain to desired shade and I use oil finish such as danish or any quality type will do. light coats at first after several coats I will rub lightly with fine steel wool that has been soaked and dried in pure alcohol (steel wool has a fine oil applied so it wil not rust) I keep repeating this process till I get the glassy gloss inish as a factory finish
    I only oil the checkered area a few times so as not to fill up the checkers, if so I clean it with the wie brush. Take your time and do it n a dust free area you will be surprized ow nice they come out

  12. #12

    Default My experience

    My first 22 rifle (Remington single shot) was in bad shape and I struggled trying to figure out what to do, since I had never attempted to refinish a stock before. After considerable internet searching I purchased some Tru-Oil, but before I used it, I was at a gunsmith shop so asked him what I should do. He had a product, Gun Sav'r CP Gunstock Satin Finish, which he gave me to try. It is available at Brownell's. Here is what I did, and I think it turned out very well.

    First I used paint/varnish remover to get rid of the the old finish, dipping fine steel wool (#200 or higher) in it and rubbing gently. There is residue left from stripping off the varnish on the old stock so I used acetone to take it off/clean stock (it raises grain slightly—so do not overuse).

    Next I sanded it gently using an eraser as a sanding block with #400-500 sandpaper (or, emery cloth). Again clean it with a tack cloth or acetone. It is now ready for the finish. I sprayed a thin coat of the Gun Sav’r CP Gunstock Satin Finish on it, let it dry, buffed it with #400 steel wool, wiped it with the tack cloth, and gave it another thin coat. I put three thin coats on. I did not sand it after the final coat. It is easy to get a little pooling at the bottom so one has to have a steady hand. On the second coat, I put less on, but it was rather grainy and rough. However, it did get smooth with steel wooling. For the 3rd coat, I sprayed on a little more than the 2nd. I hung the stock vertical for all spraying. It is important to spray thin coats so you avoid running or pooling, which are not easy to sand off.

    I do not know how the new finish will hold up, but it looks good and I am satisfied. This was a really simple approach, and can be done inside your apartment.

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