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Thread: 14'KD motor mount

  1. #1

    Default 14'KD motor mount

    I have a 14' kenai drifter and want to put a motor mount on it. I am looking for information anyone has. I dont want the mount to be permanent. I was thinking of addind some "D rings" and building a small mount that is strapped to the tube. What I dont want is a big frame work that will get in the way of passengers sitting on the side of the raft. The 14'KD has a lot of bow/stern kick so I will need one of thoes "drop down motor mount things". I use my raft on the Kenai as a break from building my house and would like to run the canyon below jim's landing. Next summer when my house is not taking my time I would like to try some out some other floats that a motor would be usefull. I have a 8HP yamaha that I will be using. If any one has a smaller motor that has the gas tank built into the motor for sale let me know.

  2. #2
    Moderator Alaskacanoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006

    Default What works kinda

    I am not sure what Rowing frame you have, but what I have done for motor mounts on the KD model, is to make an extension that slides into the 1 1/4 aluminum tubing of a standard frame. I use schedule 80 1 inch to slide inside the existing frame and then sleeve back to the 1 1/4 inch.
    drilling holes and using easy to take out pins... going straight back to beyond the rise of the tubes, then bending on a 45 degree angle and then anouther 45 to make it straight accross the back of the raft, and well under the rocker. It looks like a U shape, but on two 45 angles per side. Then I made a transom out of aluminum sandwiched in the middle with plywood. I U bolted the transome to the tubing, and drilled a hole thru the transome and tubing using a bolt to keep the transom from rolling on the tubing.
    The problem with any self bailer, even the KD with its raised floor, is that water wants to come in the raft thru the bail holes. this causes drag, so a couple of ways to fix this problem. One is to weave a rope about the same size as the holes thru the holes, thus preventing as much water coming in, or you can take a tarp that is cut to fit under the raft, and tied off to the d-rings, thus making a new bottom on the raft out of the tarp.
    It takes just a few minutes to rig the tarp. just remember to pull the tarp well forward of any way water can get into the front end of the tarp, or it won't work.
    Going slow is sometimes painful when crossing a lake in a raft, but if the weather is not bad, I plan on having someone in the boat make lunch or snacks at this time.
    One other option to the high rocker of the KD drifter type boats, is to use a Go -Devil type motor, ( Mud Motor ) with a 60 inch shaft. These weigh in at about 60 lbs total for a 6 hp Air cooled... much lighter than most other motors of similar HP...... this way you can regulate how deep you keep the prop in the water with the easy movement of just lifting and dropping it.
    I have found that with a regular boat motor, The Prop is either almost out of the water and I worry that the motor is getting enough water to cool it, or its so deep in the water that it is no longer effecient either..

    I have presented a solution to this problem with Jim King. I have an idea that I may be trying out this next season. I have requested a prototype and hopefully will be a hero..
    When you come to a fork in the trail, take it!

    Rentals for Canoes, Kayaks, Rafts, boats serving the Kenai canoe trail system and the Kenai river for over 15 years.

  3. #3
    Member AK Tubes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007

    Default I'm a cataraft guy...

    But I saw a deal at Alaska Raft and Kayak that slipped over the tubes of a round raft. Looked like a good idea, simple, easy to make and portable. I think you could attach straps and adjust the tightness with air in the tubes??? Maybe at least go look and see what you think, it looked easy enough to build with some conduit, and I don't think it was too expensive to buy already made.

  4. #4

    Default Alaska raft and kayak

    I was by there a couple of weeks ago and the set up they had was for an 18" tube and it ran forward to the seat cross bar. My raft has 15" tube in the rear and the AK raft set up takes up all that room in the back of the boat. I think I have figured out what I want to build. It will strap on to the back of the raft ONLY using a drop down bracket and a 3hp motor. When I finish and it works I will share with everone. I am building a house so it may take me awile.


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