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Thread: Check your broadheads...

  1. #1
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    Default Check your broadheads...

    I just checked my BH's (both Magnus Snuffers & NAP TH's) after putting away my hunting quiver from last year, & found that my BH's were rusty from moister gathering in the cover of the quiver (my quiver is upside down & can probably gather about a 1/2c to a cup of h20) & I had to wd-40 them & then file them sharp again (tips on the NAP TH's)...time to drill some micro holes for moisture relief...

  2. #2

    Default

    I've tried vasoline. chapstick, and snow seal to prevent rust but the best I've found is car wax. Dab it on after sharpening and they will last all season. I've picked up last years bh and still shaved hair.

  3. #3
    Moderator Daveinthebush's Avatar
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    Default Always

    Broad-heads are checked and touched up before any hunt. Even exposure to air will dull them. My SS Snuffers are all rusted from being out in PWS and hunting on the ocean. I would not use WD-40 though. Rem oil or something better. WD is for removing moisture and not a lubricant. Makes a good spray for halibut bait but that is about it.

    In a dozen arrow, after mounting broad-heads and spin testing them, I usually only find 50% that are perfect enough for hunting.

    Vietnam - June 70 - Feb. 72
    Cancer from Agent Orange - Aug. 25th 2012
    Cancer Survivor - Dec. 14th 2012

  4. #4

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    I agree you need to check them everytime but with turtle wax you'll sharpen less. Give it a try. If you apply it it several times it will build up inside the broadhead slot of your foam quiver and help keep moisture out as well.
    I used to hit my broadheads with a file everytime I went until I discovered that a coat of car wax seals out the air and moisture...to a point. If I've been in a pouring rain that soaks the quiver I'll pull them out to dry, check them and sharpen as necessary and apply more wax. If they still shave hair I stick them back into the quiver. Broadheads like the Snuffer 125's don't have enough meat to repeatedly file. The blades become too thin from the sharp edge to the air vents and will collapse when they contact bone. The 160's have much more meat to work with and are my favored for making a big hole that pours blood. A good flat sharpening steel is great for touching up Snuffers. It doesn't take off as much metal.

    I'm a recovering Missouri whitetail hunter. Spraying WD on my broadheads would get me winded for certain.

  5. #5
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    Default

    A thin coat of good wax on arrow shafts is good for keeping things quite when drawing through some rest, whisker biscuit being a good example. Also, helps with penetration.

  6. #6
    Member JustinW's Avatar
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    Default

    FWIW, I never worry about sharpening broadheads to a razor point. I think a jagged edge from a file (not sharpening stone or steel) cuts better and will bleed a lot more than a sugically clean cut by a razor sharp blade. YMMV

  7. #7
    Member Alaska Gray's Avatar
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    Default

    Next month I will break out the hunting gear and get ready. After re sighting in I will file my BH. Man I can not wait tell the season starts.
    Living the Alaskan Dream
    Gary Keller
    Anchorage, AK

  8. #8
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    Default I've checked my Magnus Snuffers...

    after shooting them at a broadhead target, & they're not only not sharp but two of the tips were bent, so I am going to stay with NAP Thunderheads...I am still debating whether or not to purchase some Montec G5's...cut on contact's like the G5 & magnus snuffers, seem decent, but after having NAP Thunderheads, & MS's, I see that all I have to do with my NAP's are replace the blades & I will have as good as new broadheads for the up coming hunt...I don't know what to do with my bent MS's...I'll keep them for targeting, or I can send them back to Magnus (lifetime gurantee) & let them know of the flawI am looking at the ones I haven't shot yet, & one seems off balance...So much for my high hopes for MS's...
    Last edited by gogoalie; 07-05-2008 at 09:22. Reason: add

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