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Thread: Steel Targets...?

  1. #1
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    Default Steel Targets...?

    Does anyone know where I can get the steel knock down targets, practice plinker if possible? I need something bigger than what’s at sportsman’s warehouse and all the out of state places cost too much and the shipping is gonna kill me…
    A couple of years ago I was shooting at the valley correction center’s range and they had some that were perfect. The range officer said that someone had made them years before and he didn’t know how to reach him.
    Any suggestions would be great.

  2. #2
    Member Alangaq's Avatar
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    I know that Alaska Steel has a computerized cutting torch set up that can cut targets out of what ever plate thickness that you want, for a fee of course. I seem to remember that the set up fee’s were a bit pricey but then again if you have them torch your targets out of some fairly thick stuff, say ¾” to 1” they should last forever. They may also have some rounds left over from when they cut holes in plate. You will just need to stop in and tell them what you are looking for. I think they are only open M-F 9 to 5 though, so you might need to make a lunch time run. You can also check with Greer Tank, but I don’t think they normally work with very thick material. Of course if you have a buddy with a big plasma cutter or a good cutting torch set up, then you can buy the material and do it yourself. For centerfire rounds I would suggest ½” or thicker material. Especially if you plan on hitting them with high power rounds with jacketed bullets. Even then you will end up with a lot of cratering and eventually some holes, but these can be patched up from time to time with a welder. The base plates can be made out of anything that will hold you targets vertical. ¼ should be more than adequate. Keep in mind that jacketed bullets can and do bounce back from steel targets, and often with enough force to cause injury, possibly even death if you get hit right. Lead is obviously the best, and really the only safe choice for knocking down steel in my opinion.

    If you get the pieces all together and just need the bases welded on, send me a PM and we will get together and I can zap them on here at the house.
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  3. #3
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    Default mgmtargets......

    Mike Gibson targets...His website has all the info puts come w's and a dot com and your good to go.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?



  4. #4
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    thanks a bunch guys. Ill check out your suggestions. If i find any good info ill post it here for the next guy

    Thanks again

  5. #5
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    You can use old Cat track shoes or grader blade edge. It cannot be penetrated, so will last forever.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alangaq View Post
    I know that Alaska Steel has a computerized cutting torch set up that can cut targets out of what ever plate thickness that you want, for a fee of course. I seem to remember that the set up fee’s were a bit pricey but then again if you have them torch your targets out of some fairly thick stuff, say ¾” to 1” they should last forever. They may also have some rounds left over from when they cut holes in plate. You will just need to stop in and tell them what you are looking for. I think they are only open M-F 9 to 5 though, so you might need to make a lunch time run. You can also check with Greer Tank, but I don’t think they normally work with very thick material. Of course if you have a buddy with a big plasma cutter or a good cutting torch set up, then you can buy the material and do it yourself. For centerfire rounds I would suggest ½” or thicker material. Especially if you plan on hitting them with high power rounds with jacketed bullets. Even then you will end up with a lot of cratering and eventually some holes, but these can be patched up from time to time with a welder. The base plates can be made out of anything that will hold you targets vertical. ¼ should be more than adequate. Keep in mind that jacketed bullets can and do bounce back from steel targets, and often with enough force to cause injury, possibly even death if you get hit right. Lead is obviously the best, and really the only safe choice for knocking down steel in my opinion.

    If you get the pieces all together and just need the bases welded on, send me a PM and we will get together and I can zap them on here at the house.
    Greer Tank has a computer run waterjet that will cut up to 8" thick steel. That should hold any bullets back. It will cut any material other than tempered glass. Check them out, they can make anything you want.

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