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Thread: 300h&h Brass

  1. #1

    Default 300h&h Brass

    I now have my gun but having a heck of a time finding brass in Anchorage. Anyone have a tip where to look other than Midway catalog. thanks.

  2. #2


    Why not just buy 375 H&H and run it through the sizer, then trim? It's been a lot of years since I have done it, but as I recall it was about as easy as resizing 300 brass in the first place.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    welfare state of Alaska

    Default .300 & .375 H&H brass

    I've got a hundred rounds or so of once fired .300 H&H brass I would love to trade for some .375 H&H brass.

    Although these are spec'ed to the same length the .300 H&H case I necekd up to .375 H&H was considerably shorter than normal.
    Living the urban lifestyle so I can pay my way and for my family's needs, and support my country. And you?
    ".. ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country" JFK

  4. #4


    well I have lots of 375 brass so guess I could just go that way with it. I think all I would have to do is run it through the FL die then trim back the case? Man a pair of H&H's I am almost giddy..LOL

  5. #5


    I don't blame you for being giddy. I still mourn the pair of pre-64's I let go many years ago. But when you gotta eat, you gotta eat.

    Do you have any Imperial sizing wax? I really like that for downsizing cases because there's no chance of buildup and shoulder dents as with the pastes or liquids. If not, be careful about buildup.

    My two concerns are case length and neck thickness after forming new cases. Trim to minimum case length, fireform, then check length again after firing. Should be less of an issue going from 375's to 300's, but always worth a check. Some cases come out of fireforming too long, even if you've trimmed them to length beforehand.

    On the neck thickness, that will happen simply because you're squeezing all that brass around a .375 hole down small enough to go around a .308 hole. My offhand safety check is to load a dummy with your bullet of choice (not a bad idea for setting up the seating die anyway), then try to chamber it. If you feel the neck starting to engage the sides of the chamber before the round is seated all the way into the chamber, back it out and check for rub marks. That's the first clue you'll have to thin the walls.

    If you don't feel that, you're not through yet. Only load a few rounds with moderate loads (just in case there's a problem) and take them to the range and bring along a spare bullet. Fire one, then see if the bullet will drop into the fired case with no drag. If it does so, you're home free. If it didn't, first measure case length to make sure the case hasn't stretched far enough to close the case mouth. If length is fine, then the case walls are too thick to spring free and release the bullet. Back to thinning the neck walls.

    I recommend the "only a few rounds," but I didn't follow my own advice last year. I formed 200 25-35 cases from new 30-30 cases, loaded them all and headed to the range for an extended session of plinking and fireforming. The very first one was overpressure in spite of the light load. Yup. Went back home and pulled bullets from the other 199 cases so I could thin the neck walls. Ratzzzz.

  6. #6
    Member shphtr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006


    "Fire one, then see if the bullet will drop into the fired case with no drag. If it does so, you're home free"

    Nice little pearl. I have several calibers that I have to fire form for - but usually am able to start with the correct caliber to start with. There are also a rifle or two that I usually will need to outside neck ream and the "fired/bullet drop" technique could be useful. Thanx

  7. #7


    Thanks for the tips fellows. been reloading since 86 but never done anything like this before. Always need more knowledge. Thanks

  8. #8


    Cabela's actually listed it and actually shipped me some recently. Gun Traders had some a while back...


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