How much do they cost and are they easy to install
How much do they cost and are they easy to install
Alaskan Bowhunters Association
Anchorage, AK 99502
Origo 2 Burner Alcohol Stove (Origo 4100CB) http://www.swego.com/mall/stove_4100.asp
I been using this for past three seasons and I have no complaint for it. One fill should last about five weekend trips.
And if anyone here needs one, I have one for a lot less than 362 dollars.
Anyone know how much the stovetop with blower is with shipping?
... aboard the 'Memory Maker' Making Memories one Wave at a Time!
It's been a while since I bought mine, but something like $1,200-$1,500 comes to mind. You'll need to call to find out.
I just dug up my receipt from my purchase on 4/08/08. I bought the 800 model stove (1 burner) with the 220 blower lid with a few extras (pot holders, 2 fuel tanks) with 4 feet each of exhaust hose and exhaust hose insulation. With the freight (USPS 2 day to Alaska = $48.00) the total was $1691.00. That includes everything you need to install it and run it except fuel.
I talked to Bruce at ScanMarine, and needed to get it here in a hurry. Bruce said no problem, and he boxed it up and drove it to the post office that day. I actually had it in my hands 2 days later. That dosn't happen too often when shipping to Alaska!
Here is the link to the stove I bought. I think most people buy the dual burner with the glass cook top. I was limited on space, and went with the 800 model. At first I didn't think I would like it as much, but I prefer it now, as it seems more robust that the glass cook top.
Here is the link:
Hope this helps,
2007 Glacier Bay Cat 2690 Coastal Runner, Twin Honda 150's
I've had mine since '93 and think it's a must have for a boat like my C-Dory 22' Cruiser. However, it will fail at exactly the worst possible time. Aside from using fresh fuel the best thing an owner should do is to carry a spare wick(fuel vaporizer) and igniter(glow coil) and be prepared to replace them ON THE BOAT.
What I am wondering is could the burners be re-jetted for gasoline (or replaced) and the glow plug replaced with an igniter? The idea of having a sealed burn chamber and a ceramic cooktop (looking at a 85dp with blower top) for a RV used in the arctic (where diesel jells eventually) has its advantages
I realise that gasoline burns hotter, has vapor-explosion issues and I will void any warranty - but IF engineered properly with an electric fuel line valve and tied into the control circuitry to isolate it completely when driving or not in use I think it should be a do-able conversion.
If anyone knows where I could get a piece of old/broken ceramic cooktop for a test, I am planning to try using it above an optimus hiker I have to see if the idea has real potential or not...
I have always run kerosene in mine and have not had any problems whatsoever. I have mostly bought my kerosene from True Value in Homer except once I bought a 5 gal container from Petro Marine. This probably sounds stupid, but I see a lot of you recommend Kleen Heat fuel. Is here a difference in kerosene, brand to brand?
What you suggest is a recipe for disaster, besides, diesel actually produces way more energy than equal proportions of gasoline. As for gelling, no. 1 diesel doesn’t gel tell like -80 below.
Scan Marine in Seattle who service Wallas stoves recommends no.2 diesel, the only time I use no.1 diesel is during winter storage because I periodically fire it up. No.2 ULS diesel produces more BTUs then no.1 diesel, kerosene, or klean heat.
These are precession manufactured stoves that should perform flawlessly for 1000s of hours. There are two types of Wallas owners, the ones who love them and the ones who hate them. If something does go wrong, Scan Marine is very helpful over the phone. If mine broke tomorrow and I had to spend $500 dollars to have is repaired I wouldn’t blink.
07 C-Dory 25 Cruiser
One more vote for the wallas. We have one with a blower top to heat the cabin, works great for that and for cooking. Biggest advantage over propane i think is no exhaust/moisture in the cabin. in fact, ours will actually dry out the cabin and wet gear fairly well.
I've used it for 6 years and the only thing I've had to do is replace the fuel pump once last summer. They reccomend that you send it to Scan Marine in seattle every two years to get cleaned, but if you can clean a rifle you can clean a wallas, and it is real easy to do. I have only cleaned mine once, last summer since i had it out of the boat and apart, and it was clean as a whistle inside so didn't really need it (and we run it all the time).
just my two cents.
I've had the Wallas on the last two boats now and can't really say that use it very much. I have a toyo for the window defrosters and regular cabin heat, so the wallace doesn't get much use. Really the only time I use it is in the morning cause it heats up the cabin so fast. I'm hoping to get more use out of it this year and maybe even cook on it.
I just noticed that this thread got resurected, so I thought I would say that I chose to go with a propane 3 burner stove since the boat has a Webasto furnace for heat. So far I am happy with my choice, and still on the first tank of propane.
I've been using the cooktop with blower lid for 3 years and it heats the cabin and cooks fine but didn't heat the cuddy. So I bought the Wallas 30D furnace. It too works great and uses almost no battery juice. With the fans moving the air around it's nice and dry. I'm satisfied.
Yes, the furnace is a 3500, and I have even used it a bit this winter on the trailer without any problems. The propane stove is a Techimpex Seafarer 3, which was a recommendation by the builder, I did not do any research on what my options were, but it works great.