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Thread: S&W 460 rattling / clicking sound

  1. #1

    Default S&W 460 rattling / clicking sound

    I just took possession of S&W 460V (5" model) and upon taking it home I noticed a clicking/ratting type sound coming from the revolver as you rock it from side to side.

    Has anyone noticed anything like this?

    Thank you.

  2. #2
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    Default ticking and clicking

    mine doesit. i have the 12 in barrel. thought it was my scope, but it seems to be somewhere around the cylinder. haven't pinpointed it yet.

  3. #3

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    I agree -- it's somewhere in the cylinder area but it's not a cylinder it self.

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    Never noticed a noise in mine either.
    Tennessee

  5. #5

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    Maybe one of the sights are loose. My 329 used to do that.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Water_Gremlin View Post
    Maybe one of the sights are loose.
    You right ON about it -- the rear sight is loose but there's something else clicking besides the sights.

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    Default Find the clicking part

    Quote Originally Posted by mve View Post
    I just took possession of S&W 460V (5" model) and upon taking it home I noticed a clicking/ratting type sound coming from the revolver as you rock it from side to side.

    Has anyone noticed anything like this?

    Thank you.
    The first thing I do to any gun I buy is take it apart. I did that to my first S&W, a 6" K-22 Masterpiece. Beautiful gun. Great shooter.

    Do that, wiggle each part in turn. In all probability you will identify more than one candidate for making the noise.

    If you don't find any part capable of making the rattling sound, maybe it's in your head. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)

    I don't own my S&W revolvers any more, but my Ruger, Dan Wesson and Colt revolvers have only a very faint rattle when I shake them violently (while holding the cylinder still). So, if the sound is louder than faint, I would go to a gun store and shake a few more Smiths and compare the sound.

    Sorry I couldn't be more help.

    Oh, which wrist do you wear your wristwatch on? Even the contents of your pockets might rattle when you shake an object in your hand.

    Lost Sheep. (Larry)

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    Default Find the clicking part

    Quote Originally Posted by mve View Post
    I just took possession of S&W 460V (5" model) and upon taking it home I noticed a clicking/ratting type sound coming from the revolver as you rock it from side to side.

    Has anyone noticed anything like this?

    Thank you.
    The first thing I do to any gun I buy is take it apart. I did that to my first S&W, a 6" K-22 Masterpiece. Beautiful gun. Great shooter.

    Do that, wiggle each part in turn. In all probability you will identify one or two candidates for making the noise.

    If you don't find any part capable of making the rattling sound, maybe it's in your head. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)

    I don't own my S&W revolvers any more, but my Ruger, Dan Wesson and Colt revolvers have only a very faint rattle when I shake them violently (while holding the cylinder still). So, if the sound is louder than faint, I would go to a gun store and shake a few more Smiths and compare the sound.

    Sorry I couldn't be more help.

    Oh, which wrist do you wear your wristwatch on? Even the contents of your pockets might rattle when you shake an object in your hand.

    Lost Sheep. (Larry)

  9. #9

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    Thanks Larry -- good points about disassembling, the wrist watch and the head

    Now I am 100% positive that the sound is originating in the revolver assembly, not in the cylinder or the sights. I removed the cylinder, plate and eventually the sights -- I then carefully listened to the clunking sound -- it's some kind of hidden spring and it's probably normal since I can't find any visual faults and so far everything works as prescribed. We'll see how it does at the range ...

    Here are some gutted pictures:




  10. #10
    Member MICHoutdoors's Avatar
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    Default same theing here....

    I just picked up the 460V as well and I have the same clicking/rattling sound when I turn it side to side. I too have tried to figure it out but havent gone as far as taking it apart yet. MVE... what do you use to clean your stainless guns? I am looking for a good cleaner. Yours seems to have more shine than mine and I am quite jealous!! ha ha ha.

    Jeff

  11. #11
    Member alaskamace's Avatar
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    Default

    could it be the transfer bar?
    ..."Tolerance is the virtue of a man without convictions." - G.K. Chesterton

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by alaskamace View Post
    could it be the transfer bar?
    I took the transfer bar (aka hammer block) out, rocked the frame front to back with cylinder and rear sights removed and I could still clearly hear the rattle. It's something else. But the transfer bar definitely adds to the overall noise as it's fairly loose in there (this is normal).

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by MICHoutdoors View Post
    I just picked up the 460V as well and I have the same clicking/rattling sound when I turn it side to side.
    Maybe this normal then ... it's driving me nuts but maybe it's just normal. I took everything I could possibly take out with the limited tools that I have and I can't see anything loose in there. It sounds like a hidden spring somewhere.
    Quote Originally Posted by MICHoutdoors View Post
    MVE... what do you use to clean your stainless guns?
    I just used the OTIS lube/oil that came with the OTIS field/tactical cleaning set I bought from MidwayUSA. I used two of their 3" patches to wipe it down with oil and I wiped it down with two slightly damp paper towels. I find that if I use two-three paper towels to dry my hands it creates just enough moisture/grip combination to pick up all the grease off of just about anything without making it wet.

  14. #14

    Default I would check

    if the hand or the bolt is moving side to side.
    Mike
    (But I don't have a 460 :-(
    Mike
    www.alaskaatvclub.org
    There is a faster way off the mountain, might hurt a little though.

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    Default

    You might check the cylinder latch lever. I know that on my mod 29 even when tight it still rattles.
    Vance in AK.

    Matthew 6:33
    "But seek first the kingdom of God and His righteousness, and all these things shall be added to you."

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Echo View Post
    if the hand or the bolt is moving side to side.
    Mike
    (But I don't have a 460 :-(
    Sorry if it sounds ignorant but where are "bolt" and "hand" on a revolver? I tried to google it to no avail...

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vance in AK View Post
    You might check the cylinder latch lever. I know that on my mod 29 even when tight it still rattles.
    I tested the latch too by putting some pressure over it with my thumb but something else is moving somewhere. I can clearly hear it moving front to back as I dip the barrel from horizontal position down 90 degrees into the floor and then up 180 degrees where it ends up pointing into the ceiling.

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    Default Hand and Bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by mve View Post
    Sorry if it sounds ignorant but where are "bolt" and "hand" on a revolver? I tried to google it to no avail...
    I believe the "Hand" being referred to is the "Advancing Hand" that moves up to rotate the cylinder. It is held in engagement to the "Star" in the center of the ejector star by a light spring. It may be able to shift fore and aft, though I think the spring is strong enough to keep it still.

    The "Bolt" is most likely the part that stops the rotation of the cylinder, lining up the chamber to be fired with the barrel. It pops up from the bottom of the frame to engage the notches arranged around the cylinder's outer surface. The spring that holds it up is not very strong.

    The "bolt" in at least two 500 magnums that I know of has shown a tendency to bounce out of its notch under recoil, though S&W denies it. The spring is apparantly too weak with heavy loads. Light loads don't cause the problem (I have experienced this first hand.) The sympton is that the cylinder (upon firing) rotates backwards a bit. Enough that the next chamber fired is a repeat on the same chamber just fired.

    Are you sure the trigger does not have enough free play to rattle? It connects to a couple of links to actuate the hammer and to move a plate which mounts a post on which the hammer pivots. (The plate moves such that when the trigger is back, the hammer can reach firing pin and when the trigger is forward the hammer is positioned such that it cannot reach the firing pin. S&W called this a "rebounding hammer" when I bought my first Smith.) These links may be the source of your noise.

    I know I am speaking (writing) simplistically, so please forgive me. I am not talking down, just trying to be unambiguous.

    In your first post, you mentioned "side to side", but later, when you were looking for a transfer bar (which I believe Smiths do not have, not like the Colt and Ruger revolvers) you mentioned that you "rocked the frame front to back with cylinder and rear sights removed and I could still clearly hear the rattle". Are there two different noises?

    OK, my turn to ask dumb question. Is the muzzle brake able to rattle?

    Good job on the disassembly photographs; so many people take are underexposed. Hint: The reflective glare can be reduced by shooting at an angle slightly off from straight perpendicular. And if all else fails, shoot inside a "soft box" or outside on a bright but cloudy day. Both give you even, diffuse light.

    By the way, congratulations on becoming intimate with your firearm. Many folks fear stripping their guns (and other machines). My personal philosophy is that if I can't take it apart and reassemble it, I do not deserve to own it. Mind you, I don't obey my philosophy 100%. I can no longer disassemble my car as I once could do. But I try, with my pieces of small gear, as much as possible.

    Lost Sheep (Larry)
    Last edited by Lost Sheep; 05-15-2008 at 23:21. Reason: for signature

  19. #19

    Default video/sound of S&W 460V rattle / clunking noise

    As they say -- a picture is worth a thousand words -- in this case a video with sound is worth even more. I decided to record this rattle/clunk -- here it is:

    http://www.ttljournal.com/tmp/smith-...ttle-clunk.php

    I recorded three clips - the first one is with the hammer down which generates the most amount of noise/rattle.

    Second clip is with the hammer up - I think the clunk is a lot less "directional" -- there's less of a move-thump-move noise but more of a loose rattle if you will; I think it's because the original rattle I am after is almost silenced with the hammer up and the remaining sound is generated by the transfer bar (aka hammer block) moving in it's seat.

    The third and final clip is still with the hammer up but this time I silence the transfer bar (aka hammer block) by pressing on it with a piece of a wooden dowel. Notice that the rattle is practically gone.

  20. #20
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mve View Post
    You right ON about it -- the rear sight is loose but there's something else clicking besides the sights.
    On my S&W 500, the first thousand rounds rattled the following items loose:

    - Extractor rod (must remove it, clean with a degreasing cleaner, reassemble with blue LockTite)

    - Rear sights (must remove, disassemble elevation screw from elevation nut, degrease all, reassemble with blue LockTite on forward screw and inside elevation nut)

    - Front sight orange plastic insert on the blade (must re-glue orange insert into the blade with SuperGlue)

    I check the gun before/after every shooting and have double checked tightness of all components several times as well, but the list of items above have decided to come loose anyway. AFAIK, all is well now. I consider this stuff to be normal new-gun break-in period types of stuff ...like a shake-out cruise. Rifles do similar things, especially magnums. S&W provided wonderful customer support of course, even to the point of sending out all new components for me to try ...for free.

    Brian

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