Manual relay type battery isolator
I'm thinking about installing an on/off battery isolator on my console. It would basically be like a manual motor starter, with the on or off spring loaded push button switches powering a coil on a relay which would enable the battery to the motor and the accesories.
I am paranoid about having a power drain which would leave me up the creek, and this would be a simple way to do it. Relay fails, just wire back to the battery.
Anyone think of any reasons NOT to do this?
I'd still need to use the key/ignition, but there would just be two buttons and an indicator light on the dash.
They make big round one. Mine is PERKO, They have Choices of
Off, No#1, Both ,No#2. Every boat I ever owned has had this type of switch, I,m sure they make other brands, Simple easy to install does the job! For what your looking for. I run mine down on #1 and back on #2 When I park simple reach over shut it off. Kills the power to everything.
Just don,t forget to do that! I was playing with my New used boat last yr, in the driveway trying to fig out all the doo dads on the Gps,Phone rang jumped out, and well 84hrs, later I was back in it trying to fig out this ticking noise, Was the Hr, Metor. I had left the key on and the batt. shut off! Won,t to that again!
I'm currently installing dual battery setup on a Klamath I got recently using the Perko switch SusintaAK mentioned.
$24.95 @ Sportsman Warehouse or $38.95 @ West Marine. West Marine also carries a Single battery switch ( ~ $25).
PriorityStart makes an automatic monitoring switch that will shut the system off once it reads a drain-down. Works very well - I have one installed on my Truck. They make a Marine Model.
I saw there is remote/solenoid switches used in Race Cars - but they were pricey.
Solenoid 12vdc 600 amp Cont Duty
If what you are talking about is a Solenoid 12vdc 600 amp Cont Duty, just like on a older Ford Truck. You give the solenoid 12vdc power and it closes the curcuit. I use this to run my windlass so the switch I installed only carrys 10 amps not 600 or what ever. I also use it as a anti theft devise on my old Chevy Truck, I have a solenoid mounted under the battery tray and a switch hidden under my dash, with out turning that swicth on there is no current flow to the starter.
Most are not continious duty, (not carrying current all the time) Model Trailer supply or the Battery store on the s crurve Dowling to Potter but have, Polar Supply has a lot of Electrical good stuff and high quality.
Perko is a manual switch Off / Bat 1 / Bat 2 / Both, you do not want to run in both to charge the batterys the Voltage Regulator will shut off charging when one battery gets to 12.9 to 13.2 volts.
Take a look at Blue Seas products
Blue Seas makes a manual " Dual Battery Plus " switch kit with an Automatic Charging Relay that offers many advantages over a simple Perko battery switch. First off, it's a simple " Off- On- Combined " selector. When used with thier #7610 Automatic Charging Relay, you can set a dual battery curcuit up so that battery #1 is only used for the motor. Run all "house" power off battery #2 ( gps, sounder, radar, radio, etc". That way- if you accidentally leave house devices on, they will not drain down the motor/start battery. ( Unless left in the "combine" postion, but see below-- it even has a protective step for that, as well ).
This charging relay offers several advantages:
** It automatically senses a charge current and charges each battery individually, isolated from one another. Once a battery is charged, it will drop it off the charging curcuit, and add it back in as needed.
** Battery #2 is isolated at engine cranking to protect against voltage spikes or drops under starting loads-- thus it won't screw up your new expensive new electronics, or have them annoyingly shut themselves off each time you crank the engine starter.
** It protects battery #1 from draining down too low - It disconnects the motor battery if voltage falls below a sufficient charge, so you always have reserve start capacity.
** Still has the "combine" position for extra start capacity if battery #1 ( motor ) is low -- thus using both battery banks cranking capacity.
Personally-- I never use the "combine" position. " On" powers both of the battery banks, and keeps them isolated from each other, and the ACR utilizes the alternator for charging each one individually as needed.
They also make a version that can be panel mounted, but I prefer to hide mine away within easy reach at the rear of the boat.
Polar Wire carries them here in Anchorage, at much less $$ than West Marine.
Same only Diff
Also called solenoid switch.</SPAN>A switch controlled by such an arrangement, in which a metal rod moves when the current is turned on: used in automotivestarting systems.
A current-carrying coil of wire that acts like a magnet when a current passes through it. Hence the closing contacts are controlled via an other source of power to open or close, be it Electrical / Pneumatic. Manual would be called a switch.
A relay would be just a different term for the same thing, but for the application would be called a interposing relay.
I also have been in the Electrical industry many many years and some things have cross over words for sure. One thing for sure is the amount of voltage drop DC has. @ 25 feet 12vdc will be 11.4 to 11.4 on number 10awg. So for my windlass up front I ran #4 which lessens that problem, larger is always better, LOL.
He!!, i'd pack it out just for fun
Plumber with a weak mind