Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: 45 ACP LSWC Feeding problems

  1. #1

    Default 45 ACP LSWC Feeding problems

    Hi there;
    I'm having a bit of hanging problems with this particular bullet. It's a Lyman #452488 190 or so grain as cast.
    Taper crimped to .470" OAL 1.192" about 1/16" Shy of the ball load next to it. It's all I can hang it out or the lube will be exposed.
    I feathered out y frame to barrel transition which helped a bit but was quite gentle. More frame work? Or just change bullets? Runs through the Ruger ok, but my Colt doesn't like them
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC01615.JPG  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2005


    I'm not sure where your Colt is hanging up but the sharp shoulder may catch when feeding in but also the shoulder of the bullet will be shoved into the chamber and biteoff a piece of the lead bullet and leave the shaving in the mouth of the chamber. This will build up and eventually keep the slide from going fully into battery (lockup). Maybe that's it. I have better feeding with those types of WC to seat them with the shoulder of the bullet almost flush with the case mouth. This way there is no sharp angle to catch the feed ramp or a bullet shoulder to jam into the chamber leade.
    Is there nothing so sacred on this earth that you aren't willing to kill or die for?

  3. #3

    Default Murphy

    Yep, that's the first thing i did...buried the bullet to the case mouth.
    Then it hung on the case mouth.
    I kind of expect to have to change bullet, but was considering cutting a deep groove in the frame to barrel to further smooth the transition.

  4. #4


    My SWC reloads in .45 acp feed fine if seated almost flush, like Murph said, but not fully flush. You don't want the case mouth to be above, or even right at the shoulder. There should be a bit of shoulder above the case mouth. YMMV.

  5. #5
    Member Dan in Alaska's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007


    Quote Originally Posted by snowshooze View Post
    I kind of expect to have to change bullet, but was considering cutting a deep groove in the frame to barrel to further smooth the transition.
    I would change bullets before I started chopping at my gun. If they feed all right through your Ruger, just shoot them up in the Ruger. Find a different bullet to shoot through your Colt.

    I have shot thousands of the 200gr LSWC bullets through my Kimber and Les Baer 1911's. Both handguns feed everything, as long as the COAL is at 1.250". That seems to be the secret, no matter what bullet I've tried.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Anchorage, AK

    Default Short shells and 45s

    That is a short round to make feed nicely in most pistol/mag combinations in a 1911. You will have to do some work to have that feed right. I like a SWC load to have a COL between 1.215 and 1.235 with the sweet spot about dead middle. Sounds like you don't have that as an option though. What kind of jams are you getting? That really determines the work that needs to be done. Stovepiping? 3-point jams? Butt up jams or Nosedives? And since your going to be tailoring the gun/magazine combination for short loads, you should probably not use the same magazines for both short and 'regular' loads.
    On the 45s I've worked on I haven't had to muck about with the frame much to get things feeding, it's mostly barrel work and magazine work with a little polish on the frame feed ramp and on the slide breech face. has a quickie tutorial on barrel fitting with pictures that is reasonably easy to follow. Take a look at the last picture at the bottom of that page - you can see how he's polished the barrel feedramp, put a light polish on the frame and broken the corner on the barrel feed ramp. To much and you will have unsupported cases and get bulging that is not a good thing - worst case you'd possibly blow out there, best case you have hard to reload brass.

    What spring are you using (recoil and main spring)? A heavier than stock recoil spring can cause more problems than it solves unless you adress other issues - magazine timing and release timing being the most critical. Recoil springs (in general) don't retard the slide's backward velocity as much as they increase the slide's forward velocity. The mainspring and firing pin stop geometry actually impact reward movement velocity significantly, but have no significant impact on forward velocity. Higher forward velocy requires your magazine springs to be in top shape. A big change in spring rate on your recoil spring from stock or a change in mainspring rate from stock may require changes to other parts to keep your pistol reliable.

    What magazine are you using? GI style magazines are set up for longer COL with a tapered feed lip set. The release point for a 1.235 cartridge is not going to be the same for a COL of 1.19ish. To early a release point can give you nosedives. To late can give 3 point jams.

    When you step out of the design specs in one area, you have to take a look at the rest of the pistol to ensure reliabililty.

  7. #7

    Thumbs up 45 Beaten!!!!!!!!

    Thanks Everyone!
    Ok it is tamed. I did several things all at once so hard to call the biggest assist in it, BUT...KelsonAK thanks for that link, very informative, good material! Smoothed her out a bit on the barrel heel as in photo, tightened taper crimp .002" went to maximum listed loads which seem to push the spring a bit harder and in the last test batch of 200 rounds, 100% reliability!!!!
    Thanks all for your time and sharing your experience in this matter!!!


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts