Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: wrap around rails

  1. #1
    Member akriverrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Peters Creek, Alaska, United States, United States

    Default wrap around rails

    i am building up the floor eleven inches along the doghouse in my boat. mainly doing this for storage purposes so i dont have crap all over the deck and stuffed in my tackle trays. so with higher floors i need a higher rail. i would like to wrap around the back also, would be about an 18 inch rail most likely 7/8ths tube or 1 inch pipe. anyone recommend who to go to, cost, stainless over aluminum? if anyone has had this done after the fact to there boat id appreciate your thoughts. thanks

  2. #2

    Default Silverstreak - $25 linear foot for rails

    They charge $25 per running foot as measured along both sides for welded aluminum rails (i.e. you pay for both sides at $25 per foot per side). Does not matter how high or what configuration the rails are. If boat is alluminum rails should be aluminum to avoid corrosion potential due to dissimilar metals

  3. #3
    Member captaindd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Salcha, AK

    Default Rails

    I think you can buy all the parts in stainless and bolt or screw them on. Alaska steel had the stainless the last time I was in there. My boat uses 11/2 Al pipe. Works great and is easy to install if you have a mig welder and hack saw. I just installed a plastic 1 1/2 hose protector over my rails to try reduce rod breakage.

  4. #4
    Member Dupont Spinner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007


    DMC Welding(360-9044, Ted) is great at that type of fabricating. He has done some great mods to his Argo. He has made the Argo calender at least twice. He knows his stuff and will not under engineer it, if you know what I mean. Tell him John sent you.

  5. #5


    Go with aluminum as the cost should be less, plus the point already made of corrosion when dis-similar metals are involved (see it all the time here on Kauai). Also, "stainless" does not mean stain-free, marine quality stainless is more costly than your basic 314/316 or whatever. Alaska's ocean salinity content does not appear to be such that stainless is required (I spent 3 summers decking on a gill-netter and have seen even galvanized pipe hold up pretty good there; here on Kauai, even lower quality stainless will have surface rust over night, no kidding.)
    You can go up in pipe schedule to equal the strenght of whatever stainless you'd use.
    Hope this helps,
    If you do go with stainLESS, make sure above all else you put a barrier between the alum gunnels, sides of the boat and the stainless components, "sticky" flashing (can be found at Home Depot) will work well, or heavy tarpaper (for roofing). Stay away from sealants for a barrier as most will fail over time.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts