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Thread: Accurizing a factory rifle

  1. #1
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
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    Default Accurizing a factory rifle

    If I wanted to have a gunsmith "accurize" a factory rifle for me what type of work should I be asking him to do?
    Don't want to change any parts or barrel on the rifle, want to keep it all original.
    (I do have a few ideas since I have had a rifle or two built before, but I would appreciate hearing other folks recommendations). Thanks

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    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Hill Country Rifles

    Go to Hill Country Rifles they done a accurizing job on a Win 70 in 300 wsm for me.......1/2" gun now.

    They list what they do.

    www.hillcountryrifles.com
    Alaska

  3. #3
    Member OKElkHunter's Avatar
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    Default accurizing

    Accurizing consist mainly of bedding the action, floating or full length bedding the barrel and trigger adjustment. Ask the smith what he recommends, some rifles shoot best with a full floated barrel and some like a bedded barrel with a little pressure depending on the rifle. I have personally floated all my barrels because I like wood stocks, floating allows for the expansion of the wood in different conditions without placing pressure on the barrel. Get your trigger adjusted to your preference. Get the creep taken out of the trigger as well.
    You'd be surprised at how much the trigger effects accuracy, if it is too heavy you tend to pull the shots and too light and you'll fire prematurely. I prefer between a 4 and 6 lb trigger pull on my hunting rifles, some like them heaver.

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    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
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    What about having a gunsmith disassemble the barreled action and square every part of it up?
    Just wondering what is the most that I could do to maximize accuracy from a factory rifle without having to change out any factory parts. Thanks

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    Lap bolt lugs for full contact.
    Bed action.
    Smooth and adjust trigger to desired weight.
    Lap barrel.
    Resurface crown.

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    You can have the action "trued". Have the barrel set back one turn and rechambered and recrowned. Then have the trigger done and a good bedding job.
    Figure on spending aboput 300-400 to have all this accomplished. But there are no promises it will help that much.
    In my opinion how much these procedures help accuracy it dependent on how bad accuracy was in the first place. It takes a lot more money and time to turn a MOA rifle into a .5 MOA rifle than it does to transform a 3 MOA into a 1.5 MOA shooter.
    If it were me and I wanted to cover all bases I would ditch the factory barrel and start with something like a Lilja, Shilen, etc and go from there.
    Tennessee

  7. #7

    Default one thing at a time

    Like many of you I canít leave well enough alone when I get a new rifle. I love floating and glassing the barrel and getting a trigger job done to it, as well as many other things. But while some things might make a fair shooting rifle better it could also make a good shooting rifle fair. Try doing one thing at a time shooting the rifle after every thing you have done to check and see it the rifle shoots the way you want it to. If after a trigger job the rifle shoots well enough to soot you, then you have just saves your self some time and money. The worst that can happen is you spend a little longer getting the rifle where you want it. That for me is a lot of the fun anyway. Once the playing is over you just have to have a new toy to do all of this to.

    Whit

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    Member shphtr's Avatar
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    Default Accuratize factory rifle

    Many do not even concern themselves with a rifles' degree of optimal accuracy until at least 100 more or less rounds have been fired, esp for a factory stock rifle. In addition to those operations already enumerated above, basic rifle accuritizing usually includes facing the bolt and action. It goes without saying that accuracy can vary with various powders and bullets at different loads and seating depths, and of course there is a plethora of accuratizing operations available for both brass, bullets, and reloading operations......for starters.

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    Member smwwoody's Avatar
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    Ok now lets talk about lightening that rifle.....

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    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
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    The project rifle that I am considering is a Winchester Model 70 Classic SS. I have three WSM calibers to choose from 270WSM, 7mmWSM or 300WSM. I am leaning toward the 7mm, but have not confirmed my decision yet.
    Now what were you saying about lightening a rifle? What would need to be done to reduce the weight, and what would be the perfect weight for this caliber. Thanks

  11. #11

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    I'm bettin that rifle will shoot MOA out of the box with the right load once broken in!

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nukalpiaq View Post
    I have three WSM calibers to choose from 270WSM, 7mmWSM or 300WSM. I am leaning toward the 7mm, but have not confirmed my decision yet.

    Now what were you saying about lightening a rifle? What would need to be done to reduce the weight, and what would be the perfect weight for this caliber. Thanks
    My approach to this question, as stated in another thread, woud be what bullet do you want to use and based on that I would pick the cartridge. My personal opinion is that most folks *under gun* their bullet by picking a cartridge and picking a high weight/mass bullet (here we go) for that cartridge, i.e., picking the 270 WSM and shooting a 150 gr bullet out of it, where a 150 gr bullet performs better in the 7mm or 300.

    If I lived in AK,the choice would be simple... the 300 WSM and a 165/168 gr bullet... at least.

    Perfect weight? Lighter gun, easier to carry... heavier gun, easier to steady and less recoil.

    My bullet choices..

    270 WSM - 130 gr
    7mm WSM -140 gr
    300 WSM - 165/168 gr

    and I like the TTSX or TSX bullets

    Hope you enjoy your new project

  13. #13
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    Wink Project Accurizzzzzzzz

    Hello Nukalpiaq -

    Funny how there are seemingly endless ways of "accurizing" a fledgling factory rifle into a full-fledge custom rig!

    From my experiences with countless guns - I'd say consider a few things first.

    Full-on customs can be really cool, yet perchance an eventual resale can be a misfit tool.

    I'd say most gunsmiths have their pet projects as well as pet peeves... so best figure more or less particulars of your wish lists and then who's the smith up to the task.

    Now --- on a factory rifle:

    I'd go ahead and get as many of the features on my factory-made wish list as possible as furnished on the original factory gun... makes sense eh? Caliber of my choice for my uses. Stuff like - What brand or kind of action, type of barrel, gun metal, finish, & stock... How long, how short, how heavy, how lightweight, safeties, triggers, sights, ports, breaks... on & on... last but not least let's say 1" or better at 100. (ahhhha!)

    On the menu you would hope to find a reputable brand & model in a configuration & caliber widely accepted as pretty darn accurate right out of the box.
    (could be 1" or better at 100 --- yes!)

    So --- I'm just guessing you have such a rifle:

    Nevertheless, it's neither performing in your trigger fingers to all its hype nor living up to what you feel is its hidden potential.

    Your rifle must need a tune up by competent professionals - right? I'll be the devils ad. 4 a minute... H**l NO!

    Just addressing accuracy on factory rifles here:
    I'd start with my objectives -
    What features did I feel where most desirable on the factory rifle I just purchased that were as close to on target in the feel and function department?
    Is the caliber, fit, and finish all inclusive to the gun I was truly seeking?
    Is it accurate in terms of my expectations or desires --- or is it simply shooting within the intended purposes of the factory rifle?
    Did I do my part equipping the gun with the best accessories I could afford to start with, installing in proper fashion, as well as obtaining the best ammunition(s) and shooting it over optimal conditions for trials?
    Have my shooter techniques or maybe lack of confidence in the arm itself become part of the overall inaccuracy issue?

    I guess to make a long story short... If you have done all you can do like purchase that "new" rifle of reputation, equipped it with fine accessories "properly", chosen good ammo, enjoyed several fine outings for shooting (on days specifically where other rifles, similar equipment, or other shooters are cutting consistent tiny groups downrange) while your factory rifle of choice in several hands is just not cutting it... I'd say Trade 'er in!!!!

    Some may say - now wait a minute... there are so many ways we can "transform" your factory rifle into that tack-driver. Yes, that may be true, yet maybe not.

    I'd have to say if a "new" factory bolt rifle of any sort & cal. (with proven accessories) gives me > 1.5" @ 100 on a good shootin' day --- its not getting "accurized" --- it's back to the racks and becoming someone else's eventual project.

    If I were to have say a .270 wsm rifle today, and it had every feature and flawless function with borderline 1.5" @ 100 accuracy AFTER A THOROUGH CLEANING... then I'd do a few experiments as follows:

    1. Place "proven" scope mounting and optics atop the rifle (you know - the trusted kind in the accuracy dept. consistently performing on other fine tack-drivers) No need to be too fancy!

    2. Find the optimal factory load through extensive range sessions using good shooter bench work... maybe closely mimic it later on w/ good hand loading.

    3. If no real convincing change - Clean the heck out of it and try steps 1 & 2 AGAIN

    4. Still not up to performance expectations (this is about where I say get rid of it on new rifles!) But I may try bedding the action or re-crowning as a last ditch.

    All this lapping, squaring, cryo-freezing to me is a bit far fetched. Yes - again it may make a difference, yet may not.

    I feel the most important 5 features pertaining to highest degree of accuracy are how fine a shooter's control is over the given action type, the overall quality of the barrels metal stock with rifling, the crown of the barrel, the conditions associated with shot to shot placement (loadings, technique, weather, lighting, timing, distance, vision, stability, etc.), and shooter's confidence within themselves and their properly maintained equipment.

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    Buy a Blaser. I have seen their light synthetic R93s toss five shots into 1/3 of an inch.

    PS before you accurize anything shoot it and wring out its potential.

  15. #15
    Member alaska bush man's Avatar
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    Thumbs up 300 Wsm

    Depending on the game hunted.........I went with the 300 WSM because of the wide selection of bullets avaiable to reload.

    My Win 70 SS Hill Country done a excellent job and I also put a KDF Brake on it......recoils like a 308 Win now!

    Warne Bases and Rings with a Leupold 2.5x8 Scope.

    The 165 TSX works perfect and the new Reloader 17 powder should be excellent.

    Same performance as a 300 Win Mag on game.
    Alaska

  16. #16
    Member ripnlip's Avatar
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    Default 300 wsm

    I agree with someone above....shoot it first and wring it out. Then, start with one thing at a time, you may find that it may only take a trigger job. Not only that, if you do a bunch of stuff at once how will you know which job really helped???

    I shoot a 300 WSM, in a Savage, and out of the box shot 1" groups, I wasnt happy with that so I had a sharpshooter trigger installed and now shoots less than .5". As far as I'm concerned, for my hunting rig thats plenty good for me for the time.

    Good info from everyone tho!!! Thanks!

  17. #17
    Member Nukalpiaq's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for all the input, sure glad I made the inquiry here before I jumped into the project. Probably saved me some money too. I will take it one step at a time based your recommendations, also decided that the 300WSM will be the rifle. Thanks again

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