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Thread: orange bottle tanning formula, tried it?

  1. #1
    Member rimfirematt's Avatar
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    Default orange bottle tanning formula, tried it?

    Anybody use the hunters and trappers fur tanning formula? Comes in an orange bottle. Ive seen it at sportys and Black Elk. No employees could give me feedback.

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    Member Alaskantrapper's Avatar
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    Pain in the butt too use it's a hit and miss on what your fur will turn out like. We had a couple of marten 1 turned out stiff and rough and the other didn't take well and slipped in spots. This is just my 2 cents

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    I have used it, did beaver, otter and mink. You really have alot of work in store with that stuff. My home tanning experiences were for sewing fur so I needed a soft/flexable hide. I'd say save your self the headache and send the pelt in.

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    I have tanned 3 beaver with it. If you want a hard tan for a wall hanging, fine. If you want it soft, you have to work it over a board or something, I'm too lazy for that HH

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    Default Good product

    I have tanned a Lynx,Marten, Ermine, & muskrat with it, all have turned out really well. Followed the directions very closely and it is a must that you strech and pull hide when on the final drying step if you want the end result to be a soft hide( you must dedicate time to this step). The raw hide needs to be fleshed really well and the lips and ears turned or split.

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    jatatkupak, did your furs turn out garment-soft? I imagine the thinner hides you did would be much easier to break than beaver.
    I second what you said about the thorough fleshing. Shave ALL the fatty tissue and meat off or it will end up as hard little hunks on the hide that the solution can't penetrate. HH

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    Member rimfirematt's Avatar
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    Well I got a little piece on its last drying step right now, So Ill post results when Im done.

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    The hides turned out pretty soft, you can fold or wad them up, and they will return to thier normal shape by just hanging them by the nose. They are not stiff at all, but as far a garment quality, I dont know. As stated earlier you must pull and strech the hide as its drying on the final step.

  9. #9
    Member rimfirematt's Avatar
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    Half of this hide I wanted the hair off. The directions say to just submerge the hide in water for a few days. Yeah its as bad as it sounds. What a godawful stink. I even puked. The hair comes off, but I have no idea what to do with the skin and the smell.

    Any other suggestions on Dehairing a hide with less smell? A buddy said they used to dehair moose hides with them soaked in lime.

    My hide was well salted too, so I think that made the hair more stubborn to remove. Anyway, dont follow the directions on the bottle. I should have known better!

    On a Side note the patch of fur that Im tanning with the stuff seams to be doing well.

  10. #10
    Member Rock_skipper's Avatar
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    Default Orange bottle

    What is the name of the stuff you guys are using? I have some stuff in a orange bottle called "Trappers Hide Tanning Formula" is that it? I hav'nt used mine yet just wondering. E.S.

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    Yeah Rock skipper, that's the stuff.

    rimfire, did you soak the hide in water at room temp?

    I think its supposed to be kept cool.

    I have heard, but have not tried it, that Lysol or some other kind of bactericide can be added to prevent rot during the de-hairing process.

    The hide being previously salted probably didn't help, I believe the purpose of salting is to set the hair roots, which of course you didn't want for that part of the hide.

    taxidermy.com and taxidermy.net should answer these questions too. HH

  12. #12

    Default I' ve used it with good results on thin skinned animals..beaver you gotta break alot!

    i/ve used it with consistent positive results as far as the tan taking, no slip, deep penetration....

    here are my tips for a beaver or thick hide...after fleshing, wash the crap out of the oil on the flesh side....use dawn detergent, etc......make sure you salt down for two days as directions say....before you rub on teh oil, make sure it is hot, then rub it in THOUROUGHLY, after that, take a serated scraper and work the flesh some...then rub in another round of oil, work with serated scraper, then do it a third time....then, cover immediately with a trash bag and make sure that the bag is IN CONTACT with teh flesh at all points....pull it out to your nails in your board and push them through the plastic to keep them in place...or use thumb tacks to keep it in contact with the edge of the hide....leave it for at least 24 hours, it has never hurt my beaver to keep them on this long....then take off the plastic andlet it startdrying out....BEFORE it gets all the way dry, but after it shrinks up most of what it will, take itoff the plywood and break it over a board, your hand rail, your knee, this is the most important thing about getting beaver as soft as you want....if you want a wallhanger, just let it dry tacked out....

    for fox, marten, lynx, etc...make sure you get the THIN membrane off, especially on fox, or the oil will not penetrate the hide deep enough....this is one problem I've had, especially with alum home tans....use the fleshing knife/draw knife when the hide is warm, over 40 degrees that is, then the flesh will peel right off or pull off, using teh fleshing knife...this temp trick has helped me out greatly with fleshing...i was fleshing in the cold, man, that sucked....

    hope this helped....i would use it on a wall hanging bear, etc, but, it might be too stiff for a garment tan unless you had a good breaking machine....

    once your done, then you can lay the hide on a towel...then place on plywood laying at 45 degree angle....and put soapy dawn water on the fur, rub in wipe out...then sprinkle with water, wipe out, then you cna run a little water down it to waxh the oil and soap out...that way, the back will not get reall wet...but, it can get wet to some degree and not wash out...

    hope this helps. oh, myh alum tans are way more inconsistent...especiallly if the thin membranes are notn all teh way off...
    Scotty in the AK bush

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