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Thread: Best marine adhesive for wood?

  1. #1
    Member alaskanmoosehunter's Avatar
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    Default Best marine adhesive for wood?

    I'm replacing some of wood on my transom that appears to be two peices of heavy plywood that bolted and sandwiched together between aluminum.

    Sometimes the wood (Depending on water conditions) goes below the waterline. So I want a marine grade adhesive that doesn't degrade in wet conditions.

    Any suggestions?
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  2. #2

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    Both epoxy or a resorcinol based glue will work. Resorcinol is thin and red. Epoxy is thicker and fills better. Some epoxies, like West system, are specifically made to work with wood. Polyester resin just doesn't stick to wood that good, especially if there's any moisture in it.

    There are also products like DuPont 5200 (Home Depot has it) that are thick like caulk and actually need some moisture to set up. There are very cool epoxies that set up under water too.

    Not quite as simple a question as it may seem on the surface....
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  3. #3

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    I think 3M makes 5200; it's strong, retains strength above & below waterline and is considered an adhesive, also somewhat flexible. It works great if you want something permanent. I've tried to remove deck fittings and stuff that was bedded in 5200, great fun.
    Jim

  4. #4
    Member Magnum Man's Avatar
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    Exclamation 3m 5300

    My buddy bolted his davit mount to the side of his c-dory and used the 3m 5200 as insurance. On the the first try in the harbor while trying to put the davit into the mount it wouldnt fit right and we realized we mounted it upside down. In haste we took the 4 bolts out and tried to remove the mount and ended up ripping about 2ft long 3 inch wide chunk of fiberglass off the gunnel in the process. Very strong and permanent. And it does stay flexible.

  5. #5

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    There is a product called Goop that works very well for a lot of different materials, but I haven't looked if its good for below the water line. And I have to agree with the 3M 5200, it is strong as nails and is basicaly permanent. A company made a product called anti-bond and that is the only thing i know that will remove it. Like somebody said above, you will tear apart fiberglass before you will break 5200. And it should work for wood also. The one complaint i have is it isn't THAT flexible. It dries very very hard.

    There is another product called sikaflex(spelling?) and it is similar to 5200 but it is very flexible, if your worried about flexing then I would look into that.

  6. #6
    Member Rob B's Avatar
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    Default Plaschem

    I believe the name of the company is Plaschem. They are located near the RR tracks off of post road. They make and sell all kinds of fiberglass items. I went there when I was rebuilding my Zodiac transom. They sold me a 2 part epoxy and resin kit that was amazing. I epoxied 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood together then fiberglassed over it all once it dried. It's held up very well for the past year or so.

  7. #7
    Member alaskanmoosehunter's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnum Man View Post
    My buddy bolted his davit mount to the side of his c-dory and used the 3m 5200 as insurance. On the the first try in the harbor while trying to put the davit into the mount it wouldnt fit right and we realized we mounted it upside down. In haste we took the 4 bolts out and tried to remove the mount and ended up ripping about 2ft long 3 inch wide chunk of fiberglass off the gunnel in the process. Very strong and permanent. And it does stay flexible.

    That's what I need right there! But I'll be sure to check, re-check and check again before I finish the process.

    Thanks to all that replied
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  8. #8

    Default Griff mentioned...

    Sikaflex. We use both Sikaflex & Vulkem in our glazing business to glaze wood windows. Both of them are polyurethanes. Not sure if they're designed to be used under the water line, but I will say this: We live on Kauai (wettest place on the planet with the most rainfall) and I've personally used the above sealants in exterior windows for about 10 or so years; if applied correctly and with a good, consistent bead laid down, it's pretty tenacious stuff. Trying to fix a broken wood window usually means destroying the stops, so I'd be game to try it for marine use. It comes in different colors too.

    Sikaflex = smooth texture, very stringy, gooey, messey, but it will hold up better to sunlight (won't shrink & crack much). Good for both wood & aluminum applications.

    Vulkem = gritty texture, easy to apply, not too stringy/gooey but doesn't seem to work as well on Aluminum storefront metal; good for wood applications.

    P.S.---silicone and/or latex with silicone (Alex Plus for example) is not for the purpose you want.
    Last edited by Big Jim; 03-25-2008 at 00:05. Reason: more info

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