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Thread: Bottom Paint :-(

  1. #1
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default Bottom Paint :-(

    Well i got some high dollar high tech. bottom paint for my fiberglass bowpicker. tech services of paint manuf. says wipe off with this solvent, sand with 80 grit, wipe again and paint ...well it ain't that easy. what ever bottom paint was on it started out medium blue but turned to black smudge with sanding then when wipped it was like i painted it black. i want to be sure it is done properly as i do not want to have to do this again any time soon. so we have taken it down to previous primer. what a tiring, nasty, dirty job. I come out of there every night looking like papa smurf. Also working having couple arms with tennis elbow and bicepital tendonitis. thank goodness for Ibuprofen 800's .
    We should finish sanding today, luckily the back half was different older paint that is coming off easier.
    also last night we pulled the boat off the trailer.


    after all this is completed topside will get worked over.
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    Member jrogers's Avatar
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    Default That doesn't look fun

    I have done body work and paint on cars, and that does not look like fun. It does make me wonder about putting bottom paint on an aluminum boat. Is it necessary up here, or can you get by without it by powerwashing the bottom a few times per year?

    Jim

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    Member arcticfox77's Avatar
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    Default looks like a very rough job...

    i also have bottom paint on my boat that needs refinishing. it is starting to flake off and im putting it off as long as i can. i was told that there is no way to go back to having a plain fiberglass hull once it has been painted, you just have more maintenance now. im just happy she doesnt leak!!

  4. #4
    Member broncoformudv's Avatar
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    Default

    Boy that sounds and looks like a lot of fun. I am sure once you are finished she will look great!

  5. #5
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    Default

    Are you going to be trailering the boat or are you going to leave it in the water all summer/season?? I've never painted the bottom of my bowpicker since i got it back in '91 but the previous owner did paint the bottom i just never did it again. I do leave it in the water all season and haul it out on the trailer once or twice a season and clorox the bottom to get rid of any growth & slime.
    I think you'll need to put on a "barrier coat" of some sort before you put on the bottom paint. You did get the ablative type of bottom paint didn't you? If it were me i'd first paint on a totaly different color of bottom paint then second coat it with the color of my choice, doing that you'll be able to tell where & how much of the ablative paint has come off the bottom and when you will need to repaint.
    I've thought about stripping the bottom paint off my boat but looking at your picture just reminds me of all the work it would be so in the words of Gilda Radner "never mind"

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  6. #6
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    2 coats of primer will go on it then one coat of white ablative then 2 coats of blue ablative. this paint will gradually peel....over years kind of self polishing , so they say. when i see white then i just need to reapply 2 coats of blue again in that spot......if that is how it works it will be great.
    sanding not quite finished, but close . my son was working on trailer tonight one wheel locked up, as we were getting it out from under boat.....all four sets of bearings were shot. then he took off lumber bunks off they were in terrble shape and supports for them need to be replace as well.
    run to homer tomorrow to get "stuff" from Kachemak Gear Shed
    hope to start painting friday......saturday by the latest.

    my bigger aluminum boat i sold had no bottom paint for the 14 years i had it.
    gee buying a used boat is soooooo much fun. still alot cheaper than my previous monthly payments

    i'm bushed good night
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  7. #7
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default

    SON GOT HULL PAINTED
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  8. #8
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    Default Bottom Paint

    Once you have bottom paint applied properly, it's really not too bad to maintain. One thing about applying new paint over old is to be sure the paint is compatible. Some of the vinyl stuff will cause the old paint to bubble and peel, then you're screwed but since you've stripped everything, no problem. I used to haul my boat every two years to redo the bottom paint. I'd spray with Clorox while still in the sling and pressure wash it good then use an articulating sanding pad and pole used for drywall with the open mesh waterproof pads to sand off the remaining scuzz - really slick and easy and avoids dust problems with dry sanding. Pressure wash and sand one day and paint the next. A weekend would usually do it for my 38 footer. One coat would do it with the new ablative paints, and having a tell tale undercoat with different color is a good idea so you can tell if it's getting thin - you don't need or want to get this stuff on too thick.

    Another cautionary note for you tin boaters. Don't use the copper based paints with aluminum hulls - it causes galvanic corrosion.

    I do have to admit I don't miss this part of boating now that I've downsized and trailering.

    The fish are getting near! I can't wait to get back out on the water!

  9. #9
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    Default

    What did you paint the hull with? I'm probably looking at a paint job if I don't sell my bowpicker, and I was looking at Awlgrip paint, but I don't know how easy the DIY is with that paint.

  10. #10

    Default

    My boat is a bit different, a displacement hull with a full keel and a rudder bracket. I paint the areas where the water moves faster, like the rudder and bracket aft of the prop, and the 28" prop itself, with a hard (Teflon based) antifoul instead of an ablative.

    For the small areas of my boat exposed to the propwash, Teflon lasts about 20 times longer than ablatives, so the spendy hard antifoul is worth it. Those parts are thick metal anyway, and don't flex under the paint.
    The rest of the fiberglass bottom and wooden keel gets ablative because it lives in the salt water year round and sanding to paint the bottom would be a major nightmare.

    Fish Witch made a good point about wet sanding. Antifoul paints are very toxic. That's how they work to keep critters from rooting in your hull - poison.
    Needless to say, you don't ever want to breath sanding dust from antifoul paint, or even touch it if possible. The heavy metals and other compounds are not good for any living thing. Take care of yourself!


  11. #11
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    botom paint- primer- Primocon 2 coats
    then 3 coats of Micron Ultra, ( one white and then two dark blue

    these were interlux paints yachtpaint.com from west marine

    hull- petit paint----easypoxy would have gotten interlux topside paint but was in Homer ( Kachemack Gear Shed) and got it there as i did not want to to drive back to Anchorage.
    RETIRED U.S.A.F. CAPT.; LIFETIME MEMBER NRA; LIFETIME MEMBER ALASKA BOWHUNTER ASSOC.
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  12. #12

    Default Bottom Paint

    Has any one ever thought about Rino Lining the bottom of a fiberglass boat? I would think that it would last a lot longer, and require less maintanance.

  13. #13
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default

    I Would Say Durable But Too Heavy And Too Rough You Want Smooth
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  14. #14

    Default Fiberglass Bottoms

    The bottoms of fiberglass boats are very durable and don't need paint or Rinoliner. If they are kept in the water for extended periods of time (like all summer in a slip rather than being trailered) they should be painted with a marine retardent paint. This is true for aluminum boats as well.

    Rinoliner would really FU the hydo-dynamics of the hull and result in higher than needed fuel costs. It would not provide any protection from marine growth and is not needed to protect a good fiberglass or aluminum hull.

    Painting of the hull is required when the boat is maintained in the water all season long. The paint used must have a retardent to marine growth on the painted surface. It will be toxic, hence the extreme precautions needed when sanding it off.
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  15. #15
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    Default Nice Work, Nim!

    Looks like you have a nice hull there. Boy what a tough job. No matter what the hull composition, re-painting the bottom (correctly) can be a real PITA. I put in many hours working on boats between tides on the grids in Juneau and Sitka, and more than a few operating the nozzle on a sandblaster in boat yards chewing old bottom paint off my last steel rig with walnut shells. I sure don't miss any of those bottom-prep jobs very much and can really appreciate your hours of labor!

    Are you missing the aluminum rig you had - sorry I couldn't sell it for you down here in Juneau. Did you ever get any bites from the ads I posted around down here? And are you still chasing pike with sticks and strings? Best of luck on your boat work and have a good "phishing" season.

  16. #16
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Jkd- Never Got Any Nibbles Down There Sold It To A Good Friend I Will Miss The Old Boat But Will Not Miss The Payment
    Still Trying For Pike Will Be Waiting For Ice To Go Out

    -pat
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  17. #17
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default Still Sanding And Painting

    MOVED OUT OF HEATED GARAGE
    80+ DEGREES IN THIS TODAY SHOULD BE FINISHED IN 2-3 DAYS....I HOPE
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  18. #18

    Default Good Job Nimrod

    Boy nice having a boy to finish it off for you.

    Rhino liner can be put on smooth to it don't come out lumpy like in your truck.

  19. #19
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default

    well, my boy is 40 , but he has been busting his butt working on it 3-5 hrs every evening after working all day. i to have been hard at it since getting back home 8 days ago.
    one more coat of paint in a couple hours on the cabin then the trim strips and painting should be finished.

    my son welded up a mounting bracket and mounted the trailer winch last night
    RETIRED U.S.A.F. CAPT.; LIFETIME MEMBER NRA; LIFETIME MEMBER ALASKA BOWHUNTER ASSOC.
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  20. #20
    Member AK NIMROD's Avatar
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    Default Painting Is Done

    FINISHED TOPSIDE PAINT AND GOT IT IN THE WATER IN A SNOW STORM IN HOMER 2 EVENINGS AGO.
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