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Thread: Cataraft Floors

  1. #1
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    Default Cataraft Floors

    Any of you guys have some good pics of your floor systems in your Catarafts you could post. Also post some pics of different setups you have with your frames.

    I am trying to figure out all my options.

    Thanks
    Sam

  2. #2
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    I too am interested in seeing flooring/layout options. Please post your pics!

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    I have the same question. Also aboat motor mounts. I am going to put a cataraft togather for deep sea fishing.

  4. #4
    Member AK Troutbum's Avatar
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    What exactly are you looking for Sam? Floors/frames are somewhat dependent on the purpose of your cat.

  5. #5
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    I use the mesh floor for fly-out float hunting and I built a hard floor out of plywood and then rolled it with bed liner material for waterproofing. You can get a sure footing even when wet with the bed liner material.

  6. #6

    Default custom floors

    here's photos of a fabric floor from jan at stiches n stuff in colorado. it was custom made to the size i wanted with the type of attatchments i wanted as well. i don't remember all the details but it is a mesh fabric with cam straps and buckles. it is very adjustable and tight enough to stand on. very well made and the cost was very reasonable for a custom made product. i have a few boats and jan has also made for me custom drop bags, pfd and wader bags, stove and equipment bags and everything has turned out great.


    Attachment 55734Attachment 55735
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  7. #7
    Member BlueMoose's Avatar
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    Default Options

    I know this is not custom work or even pictures an I would assume you may have already looked however a decent starting point for options is visit. Mind you if a frame is built custome your options may change to have something manufactured to meet your frames specifications.

    http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product_list.asp?deptid=1055

    http://www.aire.com/aire/products/ac...x?cat=16&id=25

    I have seen seat belt material woven and stitched which works well and of course depending on your needs / wants / desires your configuration might be a combination of several materials to include wood, mesh, metal etc....

    Alaska Raft and Kayak normally has a set up in store with several options. Might be a quite call and they would be willing to share some photo's to assist you with your pontential idea.

    best of luck

  8. #8

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    i looked at the nrs and aire products before ordering a custom floor from:

    http://www.stitchesnstuff91.com/cata...rsrigging.html

    i use only nrs frames on my 5 aire boats because they are well made, modular and adjustable. these floors that they sell have no adjustabilty, they are only offered in two widths and two lengths, they are not tight and must be put on while the frame is being put together. you have to dismantle the lower half of the frame to get the floor off, if you decide to not use it. i have not owned one, but have fished from and been on extended trips with two different boats that had them. both floors were returned twice when the grommet holes tore out and then returned a third time for credit. they are not up to NRS standards and i am surprised they still sell them.

    the aire floors look great, i have not tried one nor do i know anyone who uses them. the price i remember was around 350 bucks. i went back and looked at my records and the custom SNS floor was 38" x 84" (floor dimensions not including sewn in webbing staps) and cost 140 bucks plus shipping. they are USA made by hand of the highest quality materials, 100% custom (size, color, fabric, attatchments). i have a hard time believing that anyone could research all all three and choose anything else. but that is just MHO. i tried to post more photos but got frustrated.

  9. #9

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    Attachment 55897

    here is a simple motor mount for nrs frames. it is an nrs "bolt on" (U bolts) seat plate (as opposed to a welded seat plate) with ply wood thru bolted on both sides. it is easy to move from side to side or to rotate. if not using the motor (as pictured) i just slide it off to one side and center the anchor. if using a motor, i put the anchor off to the side. it cost about 50 bucks.



    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Bearoot View Post
    I have the same question. Also aboat motor mounts. I am going to put a cataraft togather for deep sea fishing.

  10. #10
    Member BlueMoose's Avatar
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    Billfish sorry to hear about the issues with the Flooring. I have run NRS floors for several years and never have had a similar issue. I rent cats with them as the floor and never had one give out. Sounds like maybe a bad batch? I have several as in over 8 of them would hate to reinvest in additional flooring for my rental cats. That is not to say the applications and or usages were similar I have no idea what the ones in question were put through.

    Thanks for the post and insight.

    Respectfully

    BMR

  11. #11
    Member AK-Bandit's Avatar
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    I'll be getting a soft floor for my cat this year. But two seasons ago I built hard floors for it and they've worked great. I used standard 1/2" plywood, measured and cut out the exact shapes then spar urethaned the bottoms. After the urethane dryed, I used Herculiner bed liner on the tops. I taped off 1" from the edge so the abrasive bed liner wouldnt rub the tubes. I made my floors in three pieces so I remove different sections depending on how I wanted to run my cat. I also made my deck the same way. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.















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    Member H_I_L_L_B_I_L_L_Y's Avatar
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    AKBandit great pics. Thanks for sharing.

  13. #13
    webmaster Michael Strahan's Avatar
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    Bandit, a couple of questions:

    1. What made you decide NOT to use marine plywood?

    2. How did you fasten the floor to the frame?

    -Mike
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  14. #14
    Member AK-Bandit's Avatar
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    Mike,
    I was all set to use marine plywood, until I picked up a sheet of it up. That stuff is heavy and spendy! I talked to Tracey Harmon about it and he's the one that recommended using spar urethane on standard plywood. When I started applying the urethane, the wood completely sucked the first 2 coats up. The last two coats gave it a visibly shiny finish. After it cured, it was super durable. It's actually holding up better than the herculiner on the top, although the herculiner sees pretty hard use all summer long.

    As far as holding down the floor, I made some tabs using hillbilly engineering . I bought a bag of 1" stainless steel conduit clips for around $12.
    This kind...



    Then I flattened them out using my bench vise and a hammer. These things are way more resilient than I anticipated, which is great for the final product, but bending them was more of a workout than I thought they would be
    After I bent them flat, I bent them into a "Z" shape with two 90deg bends. I had a can of the liquid rubber tool handle stuff and I dipped the portion that would hold down the floor. Probably not needed, but I figured it would keep the tabs from gouging the herculiner, and give them some grip. I'm a naturally skeptical person, and I didnt think these things would last very long. But these clips have not loosened or bent after countless trips on the Kenai, two trips on the Gulkana, or my float hunt on the Nelchina/Tazlina.

    Here's the finished product...


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    All of these flooring systems look functional, but the hard bottom ones seem to be the most practical. Especially if it is a fishing rig. Question is though, with so much weight added w/ the boards what performance/tracking/etc is lost or gained?

  16. #16
    Member AK-Bandit's Avatar
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    My cataraft is built more for comfortable fishing than a high performance rapid runner. Mine fully loaded with the wood floors can be a pig in the technical water, but 90% of its use is on class I & II. But I love my wood floors and so does everyone else that rides in the raft. The stability is excellent for walking on with the side benefit of practically zero splashing water coming up through the floor.

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